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420A 2gNT Engine quits while stopping

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2G or not 2G

Probationary Member
10
2
Oct 30, 2022
Huntsville, Alabama
My car is a 1997 Eclipse GS, manual transmission, with the non-turbo 2.0 liter engine. When I am braking to a stop and in gear the engine quits even if I have the clutch pedal depressed. But if I put The car in neutral and brake to a stop then no problem. It starts right up with after it quits On the first crank.

I have read the forums to get some insight but it seems like too many solutions out there to try them all. Has anyone here had this particular issue?

Also my speedometer is not currently working. I have replaced the VSS on the tranny but that did not solve the issue. New/used instrument cluster on its way.

Could the fact that it is not working impact the engine so that it is causing it to quit? Thanks.

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Hey @2G or not 2G I see you aren't too far away. I have a couple spare OEM IAC valves that you can have. I'm pretty sure they both work. If not you can at least use the tips from them since most aftermarket ones are made for Dodges and have larger tips.
 
Ok I put a new idler air control valve in and the engine still stops when in gear with clutch and brake pedal depressed when stopping the car. Any other causes or solutions you can think of? And thanks for your help. I really appreciate the advice. The old valve needed changing anyway. See pic.

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Hey @2G or not 2G I see you aren't too far away. I have a couple spare OEM IAC valves that you can have. I'm pretty sure they both work. If not you can at least use the tips from them since most aftermarket ones are made for Dodges and have larger tips.
Hey thanks for the offer but I have already picked one up here locally. A new one did not fix the problem so I am still trying to figure it out. If you have any advice I would be glad to hear it. Thanks,
 
Could maybe be the brake booster leaking a bunch of air when the brake pedal is pressed. Try disconnecting the line from the intake to the booster and cap it off. (Just an FYI if you dont know THE CAR WILL BE HARDER TO STOP with this disconnected) If doing this makes the problem go away then your booster is leaking. If not it doesn't cost anything to test.

If this isn't the issue scan for codes. You have instrument cluster issues so could be the CEL just isn't coming on but you may have codes. Also pay attention to if the engine revs up and then dies or if it just chugs out and dies.
 
Ads relay perhaps? Does the car give any codes?
No codes.
Could maybe be the brake booster leaking a bunch of air when the brake pedal is pressed. Try disconnecting the line from the intake to the booster and cap it off. (Just an FYI if you dont know THE CAR WILL BE HARDER TO STOP with this disconnected) If doing this makes the problem go away then your booster is leaking. If not it doesn't cost anything to test.

If this isn't the issue scan for codes. You have instrument cluster issues so could be the CEL just isn't coming on but you may have codes. Also pay attention to if the engine revs up and then dies or if it just chugs out and dies.
Ok I will give it a try this weekend. Thanks for the help.
 
could you include a picture of the engine bay?
It is all stock right now. I am just focusing on getting it running properly right now before I begin any upgrades.

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