2G Tranmission Removal Guide

[ChiGGz]

I saw one in the tech/diy and it seemed good but I was wondering if there was another guide lurking around somewhere.

Here is the one I found. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=242181

This will be my first transmission job, so I'd like to be as prepared as possible. Any tips you'd like to offer? I'll be doing this with a friend who's done it on other vehicles.

Also, the clutch pilot tool, is that standard? Can I use any?

 

[VanIsleDSM]

go to www.vfaq.com, there you'll find an excellent tutorial with pics, I just took my tranny out for the first time yesterday.. one thing none of the books mention is the 1 tranny bolt that goes the other way (through the eingine block into the tranny) it's right near the transfer case..

And also the biggest bi*** for me was one of the bolts on the rear tranny mount.. so tedious.. when I finally cracked it loose, it still took me another 20min to remove (getting a 1 tooth turn on a 12point boxend wrench and then having to reset it) I'm surprised neither guide mentioned that lovely time.. as the things they did describe as a pain were quite easy.. Wouldn't have been bad if I could have taken out the charcoal canister and the final support in there for the battery, I undid the forward side of both of them for some wiggle room... but the way the bolts were on the other side of those things looks like total hell, worse than the one I was dealing with, so I didn't bother.. as trying to put it back together would have been so painful..

 

[Cs4g63]

Just make sure you take your time and make note of where everything goes. It can be annoying trying to remember what bolt went where.

 

[kidrabbit84]

The 2G the steering knuckle is a different design than the 1G (2G is one piece). Hence you have to pop the lower ball joint to get the axle out. Don't try to pop the top joint and rotate the knuckle back, you can get the shaft out of the splices but you can't get it past the wheel bearing flange. Trust me I monkeyed with this for hours. Napa sells the factory recommended tool to pop the lower ball joint. It looks like: http://www.etoolcart.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=6556 I made my own thinking it was a dealer item but they had one in stock for about 25 bucks.

Unlike the link you posted, I removed the driver side axle prior to removing the tranny. One less thing holding you back when trying to remove the tranny from the motor. Use a screw driver or pry bar to pop it out of the tranny. (I had to use a pry bar on mine...retaining rings on my axles were tight)

Also fully remove the starter prior to removing the tranny. It can give you the impression it is going to stay, but it can fall. Usually corrosion holds them in, but not well once you start jiggling the tranny.

Also watch out for the clutch slave cylinder seal. Somehow when removing my tranny I must have snagged the cylinder and the piston popped out of the housing.

Adam

 

[Cs4g63]

Actually you dont need to mess with the ball joint at all. Just disconnect the lower control arm from the subframe instead.

 

[twicks69]

This is the way I pull my axles:

I am running "shorter-than-stock" stainless steel brake lines and a Wilwood brake setup -- they are very easy to remove.

2G AWD axle removal for transmission removal:

First, remove the downpipe and transfer case.

Passenger side:
1: Remove wheel

2: Remove axle cotter pin, and impact off axle nut and washer using your 32mm socket and a 1/2" impact with some balls.

3: Disconnect the steering tie rod end from the steering knuckle by removing the cotter pin, and the castellated nut with a 17mm socket and impact.

4: Disconnect your brake line from the retaining clips. If you have stock lines, be careful. If you have aftermarkets, either disconnect them from the caliper, or disconnect your caliper from the hub and float it out of the way.

5: Disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle by removing the cotter pin, and remove the castellated nut by using a 17mm short impact socket and impact.

6: Disconnect the strut from the lower control arm using 14mm socket and impact with a 14mm wrench to hold the bolt from freewheeling.

7: Now, using a prybar, gently separate your axle from the transmission, so that the axle retention clip/axle is loose from the transmission.

8: Now, you have a good pivot point (the entire lower control arm/torsion bar assembly) to pull down and/or rotate the steering knuckle, so you can pull the axle from the transmission.

----------------------------------------------------

Drivers side axle:

Same as above up to the halfshaft

1: Remove wheel

2: Remove axle cotter pin, and impact off axle nut and washer using your 32mm socket and a 1/2" impact with some balls.

3: Disconnect the steering tie rod end from the steering knuckle by removing the cotter pin, and the castellated nut with a 17mm socket and impact.

4: Disconnect your brake line from the retaining clips. If you have stock lines, be careful. If you have aftermarkets, either disconnect them from the caliper, or disconnect your caliper from the hub and float it out of the way.

5: Disconnect the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle by removing the cotter pin, and remove the castellated nut by using a 17mm short impact socket and impact.

6: Disconnect the strut from the lower control arm using 14mm socket and impact with a 14mm wrench to hold the bolt from freewheeling.

7: Separate the axle from the halfshaft by gently using a prybar, or doing the ole way of softly tugging on the steering knuckle with the halfshaft bracket still bolted to the block. This will separate the outer axle from the halfshaft.

8: Now, using a 12mm ratchet or gear wrench, remove the two bolts holding the halfshaft bracket to the block (or AC if your car still has it).

As mentioned by VanIsleDSM in the next thread, doing the entire list for the driver side is not necessarily needed. If you are just pulling the tranny to be fast about it, just disconnect the drivers side axle from the halfshaft, then unbolt the halfshaft bracket from the block (or A/C). I pull the drivers side to fully inspect everything, and add alot of space and light when I am working under car for extended periods of time.

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If you want a technical FAQ on this written up with pictures, I would be happy to. I was going to pull my tranny for the fun of it tomorrow to pull it apart and inspect it; along with pulling and inspecting the axles.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

Kidrabbit, Twicks, you guys are both way off, try harder? your method suggests working alot harder than you have to..

you don't pop any ball joints, you don't remove the axle nuts, you definitly don't remove the brakes, also it's easy to remove the tranny without even touching the driver's side, I took off the wheel to allow more light and more room.. but didn't touch anything over there other than the carrier bearing..

Like Cs4g63 said you just remove the control arms from the subframe as the vfaq states..

just follow the vfaq instructions along with the how-to in the tech section here, I printed both off and had no problems.. I just did this yesterday.

 

[twicks69]

Ok, I shouldn't have said that -- I was having a tough night. My post has been edited for politeness.

This way is fast for me to do, so I stick with it.

 

[azkkr]

go here they have pix and all
http://www.columbusdsm.com/resources/knowledge_base/kb_00022_2G_Turbo_FWD_tranny_removal.htm

 

[ChiGGz]

Great info so far, I'm feeling more and more confident with every tip I get.
azkkr: Great tutorial guide from a glance. Pictures are truly worth a thousand words.

 

[kidrabbit84]

Kidrabbit, Twicks, you guys are both way off, try harder? your method suggests working alot harder than you have to..

you don't pop any ball joints, you don't remove the axle nuts, you definitly don't remove the brakes, also it's easy to remove the tranny without even touching the driver's side, I took off the wheel to allow more light and more room.. but didn't touch anything over there other than the carrier bearing..

Like Cs4g63 said you just remove the control arms from the subframe as the vfaq states..

just follow the vfaq instructions along with the how-to in the tech section here, I printed both off and had no problems.. I just did this yesterday.

I wouldnt say I am way off... 6 of 1, 1/2 a dosen of the other. If you got the tool, 2 ball joints are easy to pop as removing 3 bolts.

Also when putting the tranny back in how well does the driver side axle mate back up with the tranny?

BTW how are your guy's alignments after doing this? I was concered about doing this due to throwing off the tow. I believe there is a fair amount of slop in the mounting holes in the lower control arm.

 

[VanIsleDSM]

Yeah I wasn't talking to you so much, but bolts are easier than ball joints for most of us.

I'm getting new tires and having an alignment done when I'm finished, I'm sure you throw it off somewhat.

 

[twicks69]

I do it my way so I don't have to think about F'ing up my alignment. I don't see how removing the upper ball joint is a deal breaker.... It isn't hard to remove.

Here is a link to a "how-to" on a stock 2G AWD axle removal: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=100676

I have tried this way on my car, and it worked good when I ran stock brakes. Now I do it differently because my setup has changed over the years.