2G Quarter Window Replacement VFAQ

[isantop]

First, off, if you're replacing auto glass an you have any doubts about your work, TAKE YOUR CAR TO A PROFESSIONAL! Seriously. You don't want it popping off the car when you get on the highway or shattering if you get in an accident.

Second, DON'T REPLACE YOUR OWN WINDSHIELD! Seriously! While the procedure and the theory and even the sealants are all the same, windshields are considered to be structurally important in the even of an accident. It's also really big and heavy, and a bit of a pain to handle without a couple buddies. Since it's seriously safety related, leave it to someone who knows what they're doing.

Third, safety! WEAR LEATHER/KEVLAR GLOVES AND SAFETY GLASSES! There will be broken glass flying everywhere with this, so safety glasses are a must. You'll want to wear long-sleeves and pants, too.

I can't be held liable for any injury or losses due to following these instructions.

With all that out of the way, you will need:

• New Window
• Long-bladed utility knife/box cutter/razor blade
• 1 tube 3M Windo-Weld Urethane. DO NOT USE SILICONE SEALER!
  (If you can't find 3M, you can use any Urethane designed for use on Windshields and for automotive applications. Do not use any other type of glue. I found Winow-Weld at Advance for $25/tube.
• Caulking gun
• Blue painter's tape
• Safety glasses
• Leather/Kevlar gloves.
• Old sheets/towels to catch old, broken glass.
• Long sleeves/pants (optional, but highly recommended).
• 40lbs. test Fishing line or picture wire.

1. Obtain a new piece of glass.
   
   You'll probably want to buy the glass separate. You can go to a junkyard and salvage a piece of glass yourself, but it's only marginally more expensive to have someone else do it, and you don't run the risk of breaking the new glass when you remove it from the car. That said, it's worth a shot to check the yard first. I got lucky when I went and found an eclipse that the Safelite guys had already practiced on, so the glass was already removed. Mine was about $20, but you may pay more or less.
   
   If you buy your glass at the junkyard and they mark it as you leave, be sure to have them mark the back corner, since you can't see that part from the inside.
   
   Clean it off really well, since you'll have tape on it for a couple of days after you mount it and you don't want it looking dingy with fingerprints. Also, if there's any shitty tint applied to the window, or if the tint on it doesn't match, take the old stuff off now. It's cake with the window out of the car, so this is a great time.
   
   
   
2. Put sheets or towels down around the window. You'll definitely want one on the outside, and on the inside on the back seat. If your paint is nice, you'll want to tape one to the side of the car under the window, since glass will scratch the paint.
   
   
   
3. Break (if it isn't already) the old window. This may be hard, but it's just the easiest way to do it. Removing the glass intact is super difficult, and you'll only get $20 for it if you resell it anyway. It'll take you around 6-8 hours to remove the old window intact, and you'll go through $20 worth of picture wire or fishing line to remove it. It just isn't worth it.
   
   Break the glass from inside the car, so that most of it falls on the outside, like so:
   
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4. Clear out as much of the broken glass around the edge of the window as you can. You won't be able to get all of it, but you can get a decent amount out. It should look like this afterwards:
   
   
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5. Remove all of the weather stripping from around the door. It should pull out, then there are some pegs that hold each end in. Remove the door trim and weather stripping rail using the screws under the stripping. This will give you access to the window.
   
   
   
6. Grab a buddy, and have them pry backwards on the rubber trim to separate it from the body. Then take a long-bladed utility knife and start trimming the old urethane between the glass and the body. Cut as close to the glass as you can, leaving as much of the old urethane on the body as possible.
   
   
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   Use shallow cuts, and go slow. It's nasty stuff, and this is the hardest part. once you get all the way through, like the image above, you can grab a screw driver and start really pulling the trim away. Pull hard (with your buddy, ;-) ) and keep making the shallow cuts.
   
   As you work your way around, make sure your buddy keeps "peeling" the trim away. This is why you broke the window. If you absolutely can't get into a particular place, you can use fishing line or picture wire, but it will take longer. FWIW, I didn't need to resort to wire; pulling the trim away from the body opened up enough to get the knife in there.
   
   
   
7. Work your way around the window like this. Keep in mind that the urethane is much thicker near the corners, so you'll have to pull really hard. TAKE EXTRA CARE NOT TO KNICK THE PAINT OR THE BLACK URETHANE PRIMER! If you do knick it, you'll have to take it to the glass shop, since you can't buy the primer you need off the shelf.
   
   
   
8. Hopefully, you'll have the old window trim and any pits of glass leftover off of the window now. Clean it well with water to get all of the dirt and crud off of the old urethane.
   
   
   
9. If you bought brand new glass, the window glass should come pre-primed. If you're using used glass, trim most of the old urethane off of the window. Again, don't knick the primer, since it can't be bought. Also make sure it's good and clean, especially the existing urethane.
   
   You want to leave the old urethane in place, because the new stuff will stick to it better than the paint on the body or the glass. If there isn't any urethane somewhere, you'll need to take the part into a glass shop and have it primed.
   
   
   
10. Test fit the glass dry, to make sure it will fit right. Position it exactly where it needs to go, then have your buddy place tape on the front and back of the top and bottom (that's four pieces) to hold it on. Double check it's in the right place.
    
    
    
11. Slit the tape holding the window to the car, leaving the pieces on the car and the window. This will tell you exactly where it needs to go when you put the window on with the urethane on.
    
    
    
12. Double check that there is no dirt, busted glass, dust, etc. on either the glass or the car.
    
    
    
13. Check for dust, one more time, for good measure. ;-)
    
    
    
14. Open up your Urethane tube, mount it in the gun, then apply a thick (1/4-1/3 inch) bead, slightly flattened. You'll want to apply it to old urethane, so if you're using new glass, put it on the car. If you're using used glass, put it on the window (easier). Go all the way around, and put some extra in the corners, just like the old stuff.
    
    
    
15. Once you're all the way around, have you and your buddy hold the glass up in place and line up the tape marks perfectly. You might still have the little posts that help you line up the window, but you don't need them. Ditto for the velcro in the corners.
    
    
    
16. Using firm pressure, press the new window onto the body, keeping it lined up. Try to press on the glass near the edge next to the trim.
    
    
    
17. Hold the window in place for 30-seconds to a minute.
    
    
    
18. Have you buddy remove the positioning tape, then have him put strips of tape around the edges, like so:
    
    
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    This will hold the window to the car, and keep it from sliding around while it sets. Be sure to have the hatch open when you tape, or else you won't be able to open it for a few days.
    
    
    
19. Enjoy a cold one, 'cause you've earned it!

...almost. If you can you should avoid driving the car for the first 12-48 hours, depending on the temperature and the humidity. If you have to drive, you should be fine, but certainly wait around an hour before driving to make sure the urethane has fully set. Don't go on the highway or exceed 50 MPH for the first 12-ish hours, just in case, and don't roll your windows down/open your sunroof for the first 24 hours. After the urethane has fully cured (it should cure within 48 hours for anywhere in the US), you can take the tape off.

As a final parting note, I don't think you'll manage to get more than one use out of the urethane. They have the thing super-mega sealed. That said, one tube is enough to do both side windows at the same time and still have enough left over to do another car or two, so if you need to do both, do them at the same time, and do your buddy's too. Get your money's worth out of the urethane! It's expensive stuff!

 

[slammedndirty]

Good Write up!!