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2g install kit question

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j30-tsi-awd

15+ Year Contributor
83
0
Jul 4, 2004
jackson, Michigan
Hey I just got my 2g install kit for my evo III turbo and im not sure where or what one of the peices is WTF . Its a small metal tube with what looks to be a nipple for a vacum line its about four inches long.(the metal tube) I just bought the basic install kit from slowboy if that helps any. so i know this is probably a stupid question but im puttin all this stuff in on monday so i kinda need the help.

thanks

-Scott
 
On the OEM j-pipe there is a metal nipple used for a vacuum source. The kit looks to include a j-pipe without that nipple and that pipe with the nipple is probably what they used to take its place.

If you've got a manual boost controller already then you will probably not need to use that vacuum source anyway (if you're using the vac line from the BOV, that is).
 
MitsuBoost said:
4" long sounds like a water line, does it have a banjo fitting on the other end?

Four inches is wayyyyyy too short for a water line, dude. Besides, what water lines have you seen that have a nipple for a vac line?
 
awesome. thanks for the quick responses. I am sure its not a water line. I think your right
davey. so since im going to be putting in a new mbc i wont need this nipple? so should i cap it off?

-Scott
 
It's highly advisable for you to use the nipple for the MBC pressure source, for many reasons. Some kits use a J-pipe>coupler>L-pipe way of getting to the SMIC. SBR's install kit uses a J-pipe>L-coupler>straight pipe method.

This is what oldman has said in past posts about tapping the BOV versus tapping the turbo/intercooler pipe, and I stand by it:
Taking the pressure source from the j-pipe fitting has many benefits.

1. The main reason why alot of mbc instructions and some tech articles suggests to tap from the BOV line is because it's connected to the intake manifold, the argument is that this is more accurate because it's the same pressure the engine sees. In reality this is a non issue because the boost gauge is tap to the intake manifold no matter where you tap your mbc so there is no advantage in tapping the bov/manifold pressure as previously thought.

2. The proper functioning (opening and closing) of the bov depends greatly on the accuracy of the pressure in the vacuum hose you're thinking of tapping on or off boost so it's best to leave it connected directly to the manifold without any interference.

3. Tapping off the compressor/j-pipe offers the shortest vacuum hose route which greatly reduces the chance of boost spike.

4. In the case of boost leaks, tapping off the compressor/j-pipe will help prevent over boosting the turbo.

5. Hooking up a bleeder type mbc like the TurboXS standard mbc to the bov line will result in a vacuum leak as well as affect the working of the BOV.

As long as SBR gave you a great place to tap for a pressure source, go ahead and use it. There have been quite a few times I've seen on here where someone changing from tapping the BOV to the IC pipes has fixed whatever boost problems they've had.
 
There will be an arrow on the TurboXS MBC indicating in which direction the pressure should travel. Usually, the pressure source goes to the bottom nipple, then the WG is connected to the side nipple. Which version of the TurboXS are you getting, the basic bleed-type, the high-performance kind, or the switchable hi-lo boost version? The high-performance version has two kinds of boost control, a bleed-type for fine adjustment and a ball and spring mechanism for coarse adjustment. This is the kind I have, and I'm very satisfied with it. In this case, the pressure goes in the side (brass-colored nipple) and exits the bottom (blue nipple).

So, IC nipple>hose>inlet of MBC>outlet of MBC>hose>Wastegate.
 
alright cool
thanx mr box. the boost controller is a duel stage but i cant get the wrig harness for the siliniod for it so i took it apart and capped of the opening to the second controller and im gonna be running it as a single stage. so i belive its just bleeder type. does this make sence? do u think it will work?
thanks

-Scott
 
Just looking at a picture of the dual stage boost controller, it should work just like a bleeder type, assuming the cap on the other end is tight and holds up. Basically, you just took the dual-stage and turned it into the standard boost controller. When you get it all connected, post back and let us know if it works.
 
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