First off, let me say that I don't really have a lot to say about this, I just wanted to throw my pics up here to be helpful. One important thing is that I didn't have to beat on my frame, cut another exit hole in the top fender, or mess with my side marker light at all. A lot of people have been asking for pictures of a 2g install because the VFAQ link is down. Anyways, whatever...
First off, jack up the car and remove the passenger side wheel. The front one, retard. Use jackstands. Remove the stock plastic wheel well shroud by taking out all the little plastic clips and the one bolt. Remove the old IC. It's held on by a few bolts in hard-to-get-to places. One is in front of it. This one I got to by unbolting the front bumper and squeezing a socket in there on a long extension. Then there's one on the inside. I hope you have small hands. I think there's one more. I forget.
There are a lot of stupid connectors all over the place. It's a Mitsubishi.
The other tech guide has pictures of how to flip the top end tank. You can also see pictures in the 1g guide. Mine was flipped by the guy I got it from, but he didn't do a good job and the end tank popped off on my test drive at 5psi. I JB Weld-ed the shit out of it and pounded the metal clamps down perfectly. Make sure you get the O-ring positioned properly.
As far as connectors, I used a straight connector on the bottom, and a 90 connector from the top to the Dave brode UICP, which I cut about 3" off of. I have a Dejon solid UICP, which made it a bit harder. If I had a stock hose, I wouldn't have had so much trouble with angles and connectors. You're going to have to figure out your own deal with connectors. Every install I read seems to be different.
I used Home Depot metal strapping to make my new mounts. I ran one strip from the old bolt hole (the one that was in the front, the one I dropped the bumper to get to) then I bolted it to the bottom of the IC, and around up top to the bolt hole that held on the center of the plastic wheel well shroud.
I used the jack to get it positioned properly, and pressed up as far as it would go. The jack, because my car is being held up by jackstands. Don't be an idiot. Then I chose the right hole on the strapping and bolted it up. I also used a piece of strapping to pull the LICP towards the front bumper, to get the lower end tank lined up right. The IC doesn't hang below the bumper noticeably but the strapping hangs down about an inch. I think I could have made it wrap right against the bottom end tank, but I was pissed off and wasn't about to take that much time.
Thats' pretty much it for the install. I cut the plastic shroud up to get it to fit, and drilled lots of holes in it for airflow. I zip-tied a metal mesh to the shroud to block rocks, and then remounted it. I decided not to use the plastic clips so I used thick black zip-ties. I'm more comfortable with those holding it on than the clips. There's barely any clearance between the shroud and the wheel, but it doesn't touch.
I also put a bit of metal mesh in front of the plastic duct to block debris. (Not shown in this picture)
I didn't notice a lot of a difference between the stock IC and this, because I'm still at a stock boost level, and my car is mostly stock. I just put this on now because I was looking for a project when I was on vacation. That's that though, I hope this has been helpful.
First off, jack up the car and remove the passenger side wheel. The front one, retard. Use jackstands. Remove the stock plastic wheel well shroud by taking out all the little plastic clips and the one bolt. Remove the old IC. It's held on by a few bolts in hard-to-get-to places. One is in front of it. This one I got to by unbolting the front bumper and squeezing a socket in there on a long extension. Then there's one on the inside. I hope you have small hands. I think there's one more. I forget.
There are a lot of stupid connectors all over the place. It's a Mitsubishi.
The other tech guide has pictures of how to flip the top end tank. You can also see pictures in the 1g guide. Mine was flipped by the guy I got it from, but he didn't do a good job and the end tank popped off on my test drive at 5psi. I JB Weld-ed the shit out of it and pounded the metal clamps down perfectly. Make sure you get the O-ring positioned properly.
As far as connectors, I used a straight connector on the bottom, and a 90 connector from the top to the Dave brode UICP, which I cut about 3" off of. I have a Dejon solid UICP, which made it a bit harder. If I had a stock hose, I wouldn't have had so much trouble with angles and connectors. You're going to have to figure out your own deal with connectors. Every install I read seems to be different.
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I used Home Depot metal strapping to make my new mounts. I ran one strip from the old bolt hole (the one that was in the front, the one I dropped the bumper to get to) then I bolted it to the bottom of the IC, and around up top to the bolt hole that held on the center of the plastic wheel well shroud.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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I used the jack to get it positioned properly, and pressed up as far as it would go. The jack, because my car is being held up by jackstands. Don't be an idiot. Then I chose the right hole on the strapping and bolted it up. I also used a piece of strapping to pull the LICP towards the front bumper, to get the lower end tank lined up right. The IC doesn't hang below the bumper noticeably but the strapping hangs down about an inch. I think I could have made it wrap right against the bottom end tank, but I was pissed off and wasn't about to take that much time.
Thats' pretty much it for the install. I cut the plastic shroud up to get it to fit, and drilled lots of holes in it for airflow. I zip-tied a metal mesh to the shroud to block rocks, and then remounted it. I decided not to use the plastic clips so I used thick black zip-ties. I'm more comfortable with those holding it on than the clips. There's barely any clearance between the shroud and the wheel, but it doesn't touch.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
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I also put a bit of metal mesh in front of the plastic duct to block debris. (Not shown in this picture)
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I didn't notice a lot of a difference between the stock IC and this, because I'm still at a stock boost level, and my car is mostly stock. I just put this on now because I was looking for a project when I was on vacation. That's that though, I hope this has been helpful.
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