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Supra SMIC Install Guide - "Long Version"

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PARTS NEEDED:


*MKIV Supra SMIC (just clean the damn thing with whatever lowest octane rating fuel you can purchase at the local gas station)

*Two 2.5 inch inside diameter couplers (about 4 inches long). One should be a straight coupler, and the other should be a 45 degree angled coupler.

*OEM Supra air duct (do not use your DSM air duct unless you absolutely must!)

*Two 2.5-to-2.25 inch exhaust adapters (about 3.75 inches long. I paid $2.09 for each)

*Regular durable duct tape

*Zip ties (not a must but they're always nice to have around)

*A box cutter or scissors to cut the excess from the zip ties

*Brode UICP (if some idiot wishes to try this install with the stock POS, all I can say is good luck. I doubt it will work because there does not seem to be adequate room for 2 clamps. read on)

*As David suggests, one should paint at least the flange, to prevent rust. You can, but it is not mandatory for THIS install

*Any recirculating BOVs except for the Greddy Type-S or Type-RS. I do not recommend either of these for this install (I will show you why).

*Make sure you have plenty of clamps that will fit around 2.5 inch and 2.25 inch piping! If I am counting correctly, I am using 24 clamps between the throttle body and the compressor housing. I had to combine six 2.25 inch (or smaller) clamps to fit around certain places. If you consider the combined clamps to be one clamp each, then I am currently utilizing 18 clamps between the throttle body and the compressor-side housing.

*A new BOV return tube. I was going to suggest that you go out and find one that is appropriate for your particular set up AFTER you finish this install, but I will assume for now that you will follow this guide closely, and therefore the location of your BOV will be close to the position of my BOV.

*Hammer

*Flathead screwdriver (you want the tip of the screwdriver to be about as wide as one of the securing teeth on the SMIC)

*One jack

*One jackstand

*A clean garage towel

*Goo Gone (not absolutely necessary. Read on)

*Weather stripping

*Some sort of metal or plastic guard that allows better airflow. Read somewhere else for this.

*Time =P

*Patience =P



Let me start off by saying it has been a long time coming. The VFAQ link to the 2G Supra SMIC install has been down for the longest time. The 2G owners have been neglected in this respect. Well, no longer! I will walk you through each step I deem appropriate and necessary. It pains me to do so, because I have already completed the install, so taking time out of my own schedule indicates how much I care that this guide gets up and running. I have taken many, many, many photos for your convenience. I (like many of you) am a very visual person. I will take and add as many pictures as I deem necessary. I am also adding other DSMers' photos to show similarities and differences. Additionally, this guide will illustrate that cutting up your car is not necessary!! You will not need a saw-zall or anything of the like. It may be a different story for the 1G owners, but not for the 2G people! This myth of "you must cut up your car to get the Supra SMIC to fit" is simply untrue. Just to comment on the DSMTuners moderator who decided to change my original title, this write-up is not the "Long Version". It should be more appropriately be called the "Thorough Version" or the "Detailed Version". Well, here we go.




Below is a graph charting out the gain on a 14b turbo. The green line is on the OEM SMIC. The red line is on the Supra SMIC. The blue line is on the Supra SMIC and nitrous oxide.

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More horrific photos of the "Power Bulge"



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Look again at what my engine bay looked like before I did the install. I want you to focus in on the second half of the UICP (the black rubber intercooler pipe that attaches to the Brode pipe and the throttle body elbow). Please look at its placement, and then look at the next photo. You may notice a difference between the placement of the same rubber pipe.
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As you can see, there is an arrow pointing a a metal bracket. I noticed that right in this area the rubber pipe started to crease. To avoid this, I placed a metal strap to keep the crease from occuring. The bracket is quite loose. I am able to move it around with my hand with very little resistance. You may also notice that the edge of the TB elbow is visible in this photo. This is a result of the second UICP being moved over about 2 inches to make room for the Brode pipe and the exhaust adapter. The metal bracket also prevents the second UICP from rubbing up against the battery.
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In this next picture, you will notice that the second UICP comes into contact with the engine head. This was not the case before I did the install. However, I highly doubt that this will have any adverse effects whatsoever.
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These next two pictures will indicate how much the Brode pipe had to be moved up and over for the install to work. As a result, the second UICP also had to move. This is why piping kits such as the Dejon Tool and Greddy may not work here.
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As you will see in the next batch of pictures, my air intake does not have much room to fit in. Sorry FIPK owners, you will not be able to keep your filters and follow this install guide to the letter. You can, however, search through some trusted vendors and buy a new cone-shaped air filter. Depending on what you choose, you can pick one up anywhere between 20 and 60 dollars. You also need an appropriate adapter to allow proper fitment on the MAS.


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Quickly notice that there are also double clamps holding the LICP to the compressor-side housing of the turbo.
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Here are some clearence number photos. As I look at it with my own two eyes it seems that I have roughly about 4.625 inches of clearence. Also notice in the first and fourth photo how I used zip ties to secure the bottom part of the Supra air duct. This is important to try and seal the air duct to the intercooler as firmly and tightly as possible.

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Here is where I experienced problems. My Greddy Type-S BOV comes into contact with my hood.


Notice that the first two photos are the same, but the second photo has a blue line indicating the gap that is now between the adjustment screw and the adjustment nut. I am easily able to turn this nut with my fingers. The problem is that I should not be able to do that. There is also a fair amount of air leaking from this area.

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The next three photos illustrates where the adjustment screw is coming into contact with the hood.

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Please notice in the next two photos the silver metal scrapes in the hole. This is where the top of the adjustment screw has been coming into contact with the hood.

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I took these next two photos from the side so you can see how much the Greddy Type-S BOV is now elevated:


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Below is another shot of where the contact is being made, but at a wide angle:

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Now there are a few options I can recommend here.



  1. Obviously, the first option that is open to you is to adjust the adjustment screw on the Greddy BOV to a softer setting, and thus reducing the height of the BOV.

  2. Have a BOV that is shorter in height than that of the Greddy Type-S or Type-RS. Two examples would be either a 1G BOV or a Forge Motorsport BOV that is similar in style to the 1G BOV. Both are pictured below (not my picture):


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    This Forge Motorsport BOV is close to a half inch shorter than the Greddy Type-S, and therefore there would not be any further issues with hood clearence. As you can see, the 1G BOV is shorter than the Forge Motorsport BOV, and thus the 1G BOV would be shorter than the Greddy Type-S or Type-RS.

  3. Drill a hole with appropriate sized drill bits into the hood. Please notice where my adjustment screw is hitting the hood. It is hitting a section of the hood support brace. This means that if you were to drill a hole into the brace, there would be no visual changes to the outside of the hood.

  4. If you have the appropriate funds, I would suggest that you get a custom-made UICP. If you are able to do this it will allow for the BOV to sit lower, avoid hood clearence issues, and will allow the fuse box to stay in its original spot.

  5. [This somewhat goes back to number 1] If you are like the rest of us who do not have the money or time to have a custom UICP made, you can go to a junk yard and pick up a 1G BOV for a price anywhere between $5 and $40.

  6. It disgusts me to recommend this, but you may ultimately wish to use a sawzall on your ride. If you decide to go this route, you will find that your Supra SMIC will sit higher, you won't have hood clearence issues, and your fuse box will be able to stay in its original place. Please be mindful that you must take your time, measure before you cut, and know what you are doing. If you do a half-hearted job cutting, it will come out looking like crap.

  7. There is one more option that I can conceive of that involves cutting- making the exhaust adapter that is between the Brode pipe and the "top" end tank shorter. Try trimming a half inch from each end of the exhaust adapter off. If that is not good enough, try taking a little more off from each end. The only initial reserve I have about this is that the double clamping method I stress may not be viable after a certain amount of cutting.

  8. In addition to shortening one of your exhaust adapters, you may also decide to shorten the other exhaust adapter as well. Do you recall post number 14 where I briefly mention my LICP rubbing against an engine brace? Well, if you decide to shorten both exhaust adapters, your LICP may not rub against this brace, and therefore you would not need to worry about it. Again, however, you may not be able to use the double clamping method that I like to stress.

  9. For those of us who are frugal or just plain cheapskates, there is yet another alternative to an already inexpensive modification. Assuming that you have the same leakage problem with your Greddy BOV, you can use JB Weld on the adjustment screw. This of couse would mean that the Greddy BOV is no longer adjustable, but now you do not have a leak. I did this very recently, so I'll have to see how well this holds. You should adjust the adjustment screw so that you will not experience pressure surging. You don't want to JB Weld this area and then not be able to ajust the BOV if you experience surging problems.
 
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Here are a few photos to corroborate suggestion #8 seen above. This has worked thus far:




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As you can see, I used JB Weld on my adjustment screw. However, if you do not wish to do this, and would like to adjust the screw at your pleasing, then you can use something called pipe dope. Pipe dope is basically a thread sealant paste that you apply to the adjustment screw threading. This product allows for the adjustment screw to be adjusted while also providing a seal so air does not escape or seep in.

Permatex offers a few products like this. Permatex products can be found at many NAPA stores.


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