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2G 2g 97+ AWD Trans Identification

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SpankyStokes

Proven Member
120
77
Oct 15, 2019
San Antonio, Texas
I pieced the car up from a straight shell.

Bought the trans and transfer case together and was told it was a 97+ combo.
I hadn't really driven the car much until I completed the rebuild a while back. I've driven the car at least 80 miles trying to do the break in process.
The car drives fine with no issues but along 5th gear above 3k rpms the car vibrates violently, while the rear tires intermediately lock up until I come to a full stop which I then can begin to drive again with no issues.

Is there a way to check my transmission gear ratio with the transmission installed ?
I've verified the transfer case to be 97+ but not the transmission.
Is this a transfer case issue? I figured the car would be binding and chirping immediately if the combo was incorrect.

I've drained the transfer case with metal material found.
Hoping its a transfer case issue and not the wrong transmission.

TRANSMISSION CODE
W5M332 UMGL
 
Last edited:
I pieced the car up from a straight shell.

Bought the trans and transfer case together and was told it was a 97+ combo.
I hadn't really driven the car much until I completed the rebuild a while back. I've driven the car at least 80 miles trying to do the break in process.
The car drives fine with no issues but along 5th gear above 3k rpms the car vibrates violently, while the rear tires intermediately lock up until I come to a full stop which I then can begin to drive again with no issues.

Is there a way to check my transmission gear ratio with the transmission installed ?
I've verified the transfer case to be 97+ but not the transmission.
Is this a transfer case issue? I figured the car would be binding and chirping immediately if the combo was incorrect.

I've drained the transfer case with metal material found.
Hoping its a transfer case issue and not the wrong transmission.

TRANSMISSION CODE
W5M332 UMGL
That transmission came with a RVR Hyper Sport Gear R.
The gear ratios are below and you need to match this trans with a 14 turn t-case like 2gb DSM or EVO 3 t-case, unless the front diff ring gear/pinion have been swapped for a 12 turn t-case.

And yes, you can check the trans side, too.
Check the post #8 in the link below. @twicks69 Tim explained it.
https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/are-all-2g-transfer-cases-interchangeable.514723/

Anyways you definitely should open the t-case and inspect all gears and bearings inside. It's really dangerous if the t-case gets locked up while driving.

W5M33-2-UMGL
1st : 2.750
2nd : 1.684
3rd : 1.160
4th : 0.862
5the : 0.666
Final : 5.358
 
My transfer case lines up after 14 rotations.
I tried doing the transmission but I get different results.
I believe I’m going to have to disconnect the cv axles while in 5th gear and rotate the engine?


I will open up the transfer case though. It spins too easy. Should there be resistance ?
 
My transfer case lines up after 14 rotations.
I tried doing the transmission but I get different results.
I believe I’m going to have to disconnect the cv axles while in 5th gear and rotate the engine?


I will open up the transfer case though. It spins too easy. Should there be resistance ?
How many turns did it take to line up? This trans should have a 63T ring gear and a 15T pinion, the same as EVO 3, so it should line up at 5 turns at the front diff (Axel) or 21 turns at the output shaft. If not, you may have something different that is not matched with a 14 turn t-case.
As for the t-case. If you don't have fluid in the t-case, you would feel less resistance, you should still feel some resistance though. If the t-case still has fluid, you would feel it more.
 
Update
I opened up the transfer case and the gears looked very good so I sealed it back up.

Also for future reference you will need to pull your axles to get an accurate rotation reading. I tried for an aggravating hour yesterday with zero lines matching up.

I pulled both axles including the half shaft and got my results first try with results of 5.

Thankfully both my transmission and transfer case were a matching pair but am now left stumped. I will inspect the rear differential tomorrow. Thank you for those who have applied any input.

If any other suggestions come to mind please share. Thank you members.
 
Update
I opened up the transfer case and the gears looked very good so I sealed it back up.

Also for future reference you will need to pull your axles to get an accurate rotation reading. I tried for an aggravating hour yesterday with zero lines matching up.

I pulled both axles including the half shaft and got my results first try with results of 5.

Thankfully both my transmission and transfer case were a matching pair but am now left stumped. I will inspect the rear differential tomorrow. Thank you for those who have applied any input.

If any other suggestions come to mind please share. Thank you members.
Glad to know that you figured it out. But did you also check all bearings? As you said you found some metal material in the t-case fluid, did you find where it came from?
It's a good idea to inspect the rear diff. and if I were you, I would check the carrier bearings and the trans/engine mounts, and rim/tire balance, too.
 
I have the fluid stored and will reopen the transfer case for pics. I know one of the rollers on the bearing was slightly scuffed but it rotates smoothly although the material found does match the color of the gears which is a dark metallic gray.

Mentioning engine mounts I am missing the the front roll stopper that goes on the crossmember.
Would it cause a large balance issue with the drive shaft?
 
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Update on what is found inside the T Case.
The small bearing for the input shaft has tons of play and damage on the rollers . Both bearing race look in good condition although I couldn’t snap a picture of the inner one.
Improper backlash adjustment?
Please view videos for input. Thank you guys.


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Last edited:
You almost missed that OMG
You are lucky that you could find it out before going back to the road. That could possibly cause all wheels locked while you are driving and you would loose control and spin.
Can't be 100% sure but the gear still looks ok in the pic. If the budget allows you, the best way would be you send it to some transmission shop and inspect and rebuild properly.
 
Last edited:
It's because actually I have an experience that I spun on the road caused by a piece of broken bearing in t-case :ohdamn:
In this forum there are many experienced people and they would help you. And I am sure one day you would help someone. So we can keep this platform live longer :thumb:
 
Update
I opened up the transfer case and the gears looked very good so I sealed it back up.

Also for future reference you will need to pull your axles to get an accurate rotation reading. I tried for an aggravating hour yesterday with zero lines matching up.

I pulled both axles including the half shaft and got my results first try with results of 5.

Thankfully both my transmission and transfer case were a matching pair but am now left stumped. I will inspect the rear differential tomorrow. Thank you for those who have applied any input.

If any other suggestions come to mind please share. Thank you members.
I have been meaning to ask you if you have already checked what rear end you have. And I forgot to verify how many turn did the output shaft have when you checked the 5 turn?
Like I mentioned above that this trans originally has a 63T front diff ring gear, so if the previous owner hasn't swapped it with 2gb's, it was 21 turn at the output shaft and 5 turn at the front diff gear. In this case you need the 3.909 rear end.
If the previous owner said 97+ combo was true, it is supposed to be 19 turn at the output shaft and 5 turn at diff gear, and it works with the 3.545 rear. If you had a mismatched rear end, that may have been the cause of the t-case damage and locking up.
 
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