20g install details

[GSLENK]

I grabbed a 20g and I'm a total noob to upgrading turbos. From what I have searched so far, this is all I know: (my 20g is the tdo5 exhaust housing, with the big 16g style compressor housing)
-20g is bolt-on (well except for the following...)
-I should feed Oil from the OFH
-I should use a restrictor around .08" hole to maintain proper pressure
-I need to clock it to point down (the compressor outlet) (it doesn't point down...)
-I have all the intercooler piping and stuff needed to install it.
-I need all new gaskets to replace any ones i am separating.

What I an pretty unsure about:
-Use stock oil drain?
-What size fittings for all oil drain/feed, what size line, Diameter (i know better than to ask for length)? SS flex tubing right?
-Coolant lines bolt right up? If not... What sizes again for fittings, and lines?

This should be pretty easy for those you who have done successfully... And my searches haven't yielded me specific enough answers to be confident I'm not about to screw something up.

Is there anything else Im missing? I want to get this turbo on and running in a day. Preferably in a few hours.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Your overthinking it dude.It should bolt right up using all the same stuff as stock.Feed from the head, just like stock.Everything else should be a no brainer.

You will need new crush washers for sure.Don't forget the crush washers.
As long as your car is not an auto, everything should swap right over.

 

[TSITurbo95]

Yes, your over thinking this. It is a direct bolt on. I would suggest getting a new o2/turbo gasket since your in there.

 

[Bud92gsx]

I would also suggest a 2g manifold, and larger manifold to turbo gasket as well.And hell why not add a 2g o2 housing as well.

 

[GSLENK]

Ok sweet I thought it was a direct bolt-on (well i know its is identical, except for the compressor size/firing direction but that's nothing.)
Then I started searching and I started seeing people running OFH lines etc... Not that many, but i suppose you will sometimes find what you are looking to find.

Id really feel better if someone who's running the setup chimes in. If they say something like, "yeah I ran it like that forever and its fine". It would be pretty if nice if the guy who rebuilt it could chime in .... hint hint Justin. Ill pm him and try to point him in this direction.

 

[Bud92gsx]

It looks like a front facing compressor.So you may have some trouble with attatching the boost piping.But other than that, it will be a direct bolt on.

Don't worry about it, hook it up like the stock 14b, and don't worry so much.As long as you can get the boost piping hooked up you should have no problems.

 

[JusMX141]

Such a 20G is a direct bolt-on. Don't fix what isn't broken when it comes to oiling and clocking housings.

If you're running very high boost levels you may want to consider switching to a feed from the filter housing using a restrictor, but that's all that should change.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Such a 20G is a direct bolt-on. Don't fix what isn't broken when it comes to oiling and clocking housings.

If you're running very high boost levels you may want to consider switching to a feed from the filter housing using a restrictor, but that's all that should change.

What about the compressor facing forward.Unless when I googled td06 20g the photo's were wrong.

Actually nevermind thats we have mods in our profile for.Maybe a different coupler is all he would need.

 

[GSLENK]

I'm about 200% sure i'm gonna have to clock this guy. Idk what kinda IC setup this dood had, but it wasn't conventional i don't think. Heres some pics.

And just to confirm, EVERYTHING just bolts coolant, oil, manifold, DP exact same as factory. Nothing has to be extended or anything like this (except for hotside IC piping...)

And to clock it... I pull that SOB snap ring out, spin it, put snap ring back in?

I have the huge 6" leg 90* elbow from STM. Its either the 2.25 to 2.5 (j-pipe to licp) or 2.0 to 2.5 (pretty sure its 2-2.5) that should do the trick. If not I'll figure that part out. But I do want this to be down firing.

 

[Bud92gsx]

Yes and yes.,simple right.But remember crush washers!Also put up a pic of the turbine housing.You will need new gaskets for sure, or port the stock gaskets.

 

[GSLENK]

So is this setup to just bolt on? (after I clock it, that is)

That metal tube popping out the bottom, is that supposed to be there for bolt on installation? If not, the factory drain just bolts on? when I remove it...(with new gasket)

I think i want to at least replace the banjo bolts for the water lines I havent seen how bad the factory ones are, but I dont want to find them coroded and wait days for new ones when they are cheap...

And what size crush washers? 10 12 14,mm?

And again I think i will keep the 14b 90* oil feed fitting on the 14b and get a new one for the 20g. What size threads will i need?

Also im thinking about New oem or ARP turbo studs... (I bet mine are just as coroded as the 14b hotside or even the manifold...

And I gotta buy a set of spare 45* pliers My baby snap ring tool aint gonna cut it.

EDIT:
My 45* worked just fine, no ruining required, it was actually too easy...

Well Ill try to get away with keeping everything factory for now... I cannot wait for the weekend!

Im gonna fry the living dogsh!t out of my clutch!!!!! wohoooo. ( I have an ACT2600 ready to go in.)

 

[Bud92gsx]

dude your still overthinking it.It's really that simple swap all in and out lines,top and bottom are oil, and the sides are coolant.

Yes direct bolt on just clock it..The turbine housing I meant the wastgate side just to make sure it is bolt onto the dsm o2 housing.

Crush washers not sure on size, if you call STM they should know which ones you need.I just pick up a pack of different ones when I do mine.Also yes new gaskets for oil drain and so forth.

The old manifold bolts should be just fine, but if you want to replace go ahead.

Justin sent me 2 gaskets when he sent me my turbo,so I don't know if he sent you any.I would get different ones, but that's just me.

 

[GSLENK]

sorry man Engineering was my first (attempted, ) major, and my physics teacher was an a-hole. My brain snapped, and im a permanant overthinker. sometimes it pays off...

I clocked it already, and heres exactly what I have so far. Its going onto a 3in DP. The comp outlet is 2" so it fits my STM 90* reducer 2" to 2.5" for LICP.

Im gonna take you advice and just bolt it up using factory stuff. Ill use gaskets and washers as necessary.

Would an autozone turbo gasket kit cut it? its like $30 and I think it has everything... Felpro/Turbocharger Gasket (ES72787) | 1992 Plymouth Laser 4 Cylinders U 2.0L MFI Turbo DOHC | AutoZone.com

Im going external o2, got this free with the turbo, (knockoff WG, seems like it holds... well see) I can always get a tial...

Oh and Justin didnt build it for me the previous owner had it rebuilt, by him. He just told me justin did it about 1.5k ago. feels pretty tight.


And what material would you suggest for bolts to connect the o2 housing to the compressor?

 

[Bud92gsx]

You may have this backwards pal.the silver part there is the compressor side, the dark part is the turbine side.Dark side-turbine,silver side-compressor.

 

[GSLENK]

doh

I meant to say o2 housing to turbine haha
As you can see my compressor and turbine are pretty well attached. but my o2 and turbine, not so much...

 

[Bud92gsx]

I knew what you meant, just wanted you to know the correct terms..

That looks like a mild steel o2 housing and external wastegate.Yes or no?

 

[GSLENK]

Mild it is. Its pretty thick though. I think I'm gonna use it for now... Also If i want to change it, I can only weld mild steel, so it made sense.

Im definitely going more on the function side than form side for now.

 

[Bud92gsx]

There is nothing wrong with a mild steel o2 housing.Some of our vendors make/sell them.They are cheaper than stainles pretty shiny ones.But I would ceramic coat it anyway so I don't care about having a shiny one.

 

[GSLENK]

Now that I'm actually putting it in.... what do people do about the water/oil lines? I prefer to run both. But the compressor housing is testing my creative abilities. Has anyone really run the factory lines on a 20g? I'm tempted to go stainless flex tubing for all. However I might just bend the crap out of what I have and see how it goes.

Would flex line be just as reliable as solid line?

 

[lowboost13]

Now that I'm actually putting it in.... what do people do about the water/oil lines? I prefer to run both. But the compressor housing is testing my creative abilities. Has anyone really run the factory lines on a 20g? I'm tempted to go stainless flex tubing for all. However I might just bend the crap out of what I have and see how it goes.

Would flex line be just as reliable as solid line?

Yes, both of my friends with 20g's in there 1g's run water, and oil lines. They also reused the same factory lines that there 14b used.

 

[Jaxness]

Just installed my freshly built 20g. TD06 down firing compressor cover with a 3" inlet, & ported hotside.

When bolting the turbo on, it hits the water pipe on the front of the motor. We were able to bend the bracket a little and had enough clearance.

I dont recommend using this turbo with the GReddy FMIC. The lower intercooler pipe was a pain in the a**. It gets in the way of the front motor mount and lower radiator hose.

It definately wasn't a straight bolt-on for me. I'll be switching to external wastegate sometime in the near future.

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After getting it on, my OEM oil return decided to sprout a hole. So I'll be going with a SS return line.

 

[GSLENK]

After a lot of mocking, test fitting and bending (little bits at a time) The only real problems were the rear water line, and top oil line (more so the rear water line...). i think I have them managed. And my 20g is externally gated...

Yes, both of my friends with 20g's in there 1g's run water, and oil lines. They also reused the same factory lines that there 14b used.

good to know, I feel a little bit better about keeping the factory lines

 

[Jaxness]

I had to bend my water lines too. As long as they dont kink, you should be ok.

 

[JusMX141]

Just installed my freshly built 20g. TD06 down firing compressor cover with a 3" inlet, & ported hotside.

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That wastegate actuator will definitely not allow a draw-thru fan to be run on that side....it may even be close to the rad.

I prefer to use Garrett or Holset actuators on 20G's because they have smaller heads for better clearance. I also try to fab the bracket so it's up a little higher than yours, placing the actuator tighter to the turbo and allowing better clearance.

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[crash89]

Mine was a direct bolt on. didnt have any issues. I decided to cut a 1g return line and run a hose between the two ends for a little extra flexibility during install, so I didnt run into the same problem Jax had. I used an o2 pipe plumbed for a 38mm wastegate from I believe ExtremePSI and fed from the head. IC pipe fit very well with my VRspeed FMIC. I did however, have to dent the water pipe slightly since I was using an ebay manifold which I have never had any problems with.

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