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20g install

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jjm96gst

10+ Year Contributor
314
2
Jul 28, 2009
El Paso, Texas
Found a great deal on a 20g but cant find an install kit for it. I have a 2g. Right now I'm just getting all the parts together. I will have all supporting mods. Just need some help finding an install kit. Did a search but can't find anything(maybe I can search right):ohdamn:
 
There is no install kit for the 20g unless you got a bastard 20g ? Is it the down-facing 20g you purchased ?
 
Standard MHI 20g is going to use the install kit for the 14b/16g/18g etc..

All the lines are the same. I highly recommend oil sourcing from the head for that turbo.
 
No, your 31mm will be just fine. Most people usually end up upgrading to an external wastegate anyways.
 
No bad for 500. Make sure to keep the boost under 14 psi as this wheel is quite a good bit bigger than the 16g. Do your fuel mods asap.
 
No bad for 500. Make sure to keep the boost under 14 psi as this wheel is quite a good bit bigger than the 16g. Do your fuel mods asap.

Ya right now I'm deployed so I'm just purchasing parts so that when I get back home I'll have everything ready to go been having good luck so far with buying stuff for cheap even the car itself was cheap only 5k had only 63,000 miles from an old man haha. So far only got 2600 act clutch and the turbo parts list is 255 walbro, 750cc, FMIC, turbo back exhaust, DSM link, intake, and all the little misc items like boost gauge etc... those are the just main things I'm looking for right now. Any other suggestions?
 
looking good.

One suggestion, if you think you're going to go to a larger turbo in the future you may want to think of getting bigger injectors now so you don't need to upgrade again in the future. Since you will be getting DSMLink you'll can throw on pretty much any injector you wish.

If you aren't going to go above the 20g then your injectors should be fine.
 
...it only has a 31mm WG flapper dont I need at least a 34mm?
Not unless you're running into issues with boost creep.

That turbine housing (Evo III-style) is known for causing creep because of it's 2.5" outlet versus a standard 2" outlet on a MHI 7cm housing. Couple the bigger housing to a large, unrestricted exhaust system then attempt to run low boost and you're asking for trouble.
 
Not unless you're running into issues with boost creep.

That turbine housing (Evo III-style) is known for causing creep because of it's 2.5" outlet versus a standard 2" outlet on a MHI 7cm housing. Couple the bigger housing to a large, unrestricted exhaust system then attempt to run low boost and you're asking for trouble.

Ok thanks Ill keep that in mind I probably wont run more than about 22psi or so want the block to last and thank you for the help earlier on the turbos I was going to get the s16g but decided to go all out with the 20g :sneaky:
 
If you're running 22psi you shouldn't have a problem with creep as you're almost at the flow potential of the turbine wheel.

Boost creep is only an issue when you're attempting to run low boost (under 18psi) with a very unrestricted exhaust system. This is always the first topic that comes up when a guy buys a 3" turbo-back system "because bigger is better".
 
Thanks everyone for the input. Ill keep everyone posted on the build wont be done till some time next year, thats when I get back. Can't wait, this is my second project first project was a v6 mustang put down 486whp/491tq. Always wanted a DSM just could not find a non ricer non abused hahaha well thanks again very helpful info
 
If you're running 22psi you shouldn't have a problem with creep as you're almost at the flow potential of the turbine wheel.

Boost creep is only an issue when you're attempting to run low boost (under 18psi) with a very unrestricted exhaust system. This is always the first topic that comes up when a guy buys a 3" turbo-back system "because bigger is better".

^^^So, what your saying is that I shouldn't bolt up a 3" Dp on a T-25 (rebuilt by you, and still running strong) or else I'll definitely experience boost creep? I have read and searched so many different views/examples/reasons for boost creep, here on tuners, that I'm not really sure how to recognize it, much less eliminate it.:confused:
 
^^^So, what your saying is that I shouldn't bolt up a 3" Dp on a T-25 (rebuilt by you, and still running strong) or else I'll definitely experience boost creep? I have read and searched so many different views/examples/reasons for boost creep, here on tuners, that I'm not really sure how to recognize it, much less eliminate it.:confused:
Glad to hear your T25's still running strong! T25's seem to be an exception, as well as 14B's and 16G's running a smaller (6cm) unported turbine housing.

The T25's turbine wheel itself is so small (along with the nozzle area of the turbine housing) that it causes plenty of backpressure so whenever the wastegate opens the airflow easily exists as it's the path of least resistance.

The boost creep issues only seem to pop up on turbos using the Evo III-spec turbine housing with the 2.5" outlet, a standard 31mm flapper, and a large exhaust system when attempting to run low boost.
 
Things that will help before/during the turbo install:

Coat/paint the compressor housing! (I used that 2000*F VHT stuff. Holding up 3 months later pretty well). I used flat black. Looks amazing.

If you are going with an aftermarket o2 housing, get it on there before you install the turbo (once again, much less of a headache with the turbo unbolted). Depending on the brand it would ###### be a good idea to install a fresh o2 sensor at this time. I know with the stock manifold mine is impossible to change with the turbo bolted up.

If you're like me you're a perfectionist. While the compressor housing doesnt look that bad as is, get crazy and make it clean enough to eat off of to a shine :)

Make sure you're using a 2 or 2.25" coupler if you go to an aftermarket intake line. The wastegate nipple is kinda in a bad spot and is really easy to pinch inadvertently.

When you install the oil feed line (*NOTE: only when using a banjo fitting) be very careful as the head can be stripped quite easily on that banjo bolt. I stripped mine, luckily I got a helicoil to hold well. When installing I'd bolt this up first, likewise when removing I'd unbolt from the turbo first then the head.

Looks like you're setup so far is pretty good. I'd get bigger injectors personally.
Also being FWD you're gonna want lateral mount inserts and some good front suspension for sure!
 
Things that will help before/during the turbo install:

Coat/paint the compressor housing! (I used that 2000*F VHT stuff. Holding up 3 months later pretty well). I used flat black. Looks amazing.

If you are going with an aftermarket o2 housing, get it on there before you install the turbo (once again, much less of a headache with the turbo unbolted). Depending on the brand it would ###### be a good idea to install a fresh o2 sensor at this time. I know with the stock manifold mine is impossible to change with the turbo bolted up.

If you're like me you're a perfectionist. While the compressor housing doesnt look that bad as is, get crazy and make it clean enough to eat off of to a shine :)

Make sure you're using a 2 or 2.25" coupler if you go to an aftermarket intake line. The wastegate nipple is kinda in a bad spot and is really easy to pinch inadvertently.

When you install the oil feed line (*NOTE: only when using a banjo fitting) be very careful as the head can be stripped quite easily on that banjo bolt. I stripped mine, luckily I got a helicoil to hold well. When installing I'd bolt this up first, likewise when removing I'd unbolt from the turbo first then the head.

Looks like you're setup so far is pretty good. I'd get bigger injectors personally.
Also being FWD you're gonna want lateral mount inserts and some good front suspension for sure!


Thanks for the good info and ya I was kinda leaning towards 850's since I going to run DSM link Ill be fine and they are about the same price. Cant wait till it's all put together I feel like a kid at the candy store!!! Thanks again:thumb:
 
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