2.4 swap research

[1fast97gsx]

So far I have been able to find that the following cars had a 6 bolt 2.4 bottom end in them:

Mitsu Expo SOHC 91-92 Vin code L
Mitsu Galant SOHC 5/84-5/87 Vin Code L
Hyundai Sonata SOHC 89-91 Vin Code S

Is this correct, and also are these the mitsu cranks or the hyundai cranks in them? I just sold my 2.0 parts with plans to part out the car but I think I may drop in a 2.4 and sell it with that to try and get a little more money out of it.

I know I need to get the 2.4 dohc cam gears .. do these come from the dohc galants? Were those also 2.4s?

Also where are the casting numbers and what numbers must I look for on the blocks? I know a local yard that has a few sonatas that may have the 2.4 ... just want to make sure beforehand.

 

[93AWDTalon1]

Hyundai Sonata SOHC 89-91 G4CS block 6bolt
Mitsu Expo SOHC 91-92 4G64 block 6bolt
http://www.slowboyracing.com/shop.php?sid=&cat=1054
they will have all the timing parts you will need

 

[1fast97gsx]

What about the cranks in those blocks? Are they all mitsu cranks or which crank would be best to go with?

 

[XtReMeToYz]

What about the cranks in those blocks? Are they all mitsu cranks or which crank would be best to go with?

The hyundai is hyundai, the mitsu is a mitsu. The mitsu would be better to go with, IF you can find it.

 

[1fast97gsx]

What is different other than the thickness of the harness?

 

[jpbrazill]

my 6 bolt 2.4L cam out of a Chrysler minivan. It is a 4G64, with a mitsu crank.
When I did the swap, I used the 4G63:
oil pick up,
front cover
tensioner
crank pulley
timing belt cover (modified: the 2.4 block is a half inch taller)
oil pan
dip stick and tube
4G63 spec rods. (I put in eagle rods out of my 2.0)
etc


The only 2.4L stuff you need are:
2.4L DOHC cam gears
87mm bore head gasket
dual valve relief pistons for a 4G64
timing belt...(94 galant 2.4L DOHC is good to go by)

Changes you need to make:
Cut and extend your oil drain from the turbo
Modify the Timing Belt cover (bolt holes dont line up towards the top)

Im pretty sure that was it...

 

[1fast97gsx]

What minivan was it out of? I'm assuming it was a 7 bolt?

Maybe we should just make a COMPLETE list of any 2.4 bottom end block that will work and that'll make it easy on others in the future as well.

 

[BOOSTIN21]

this is interesting i am in the process of selling my car and looking for a new one. which ever it may be i have a 2g head and a 6bolt block but i would like to go 2.4 sometime. my friend is using a sonata crank in his car.
my questions are as follows... did the early model 4cyl avengers come with a 6bolt 4g64 or was it only 7bolt? what is the compression for the already listed 2.4 bottom ends (expo, sonata)? will the stock bottom end internals hold up to higher boost applications, such as 22psi? will EVO 8 pistons work in these blocks? will the 2g head work?

 

[1fast97gsx]

I don't think any of the stock 2.4s will hold up to high boost and put out great numbers. They have to all be built up.

 

[jpbrazill]

this is interesting i am in the process of selling my car and looking for a new one. which ever it may be i have a 2g head and a 6bolt block but i would like to go 2.4 sometime. my friend is using a sonata crank in his car.
my questions are as follows... did the early model 4cyl avengers come with a 6bolt 4g64 or was it only 7bolt? what is the compression for the already listed 2.4 bottom ends (expo, sonata)? will the stock bottom end internals hold up to higher boost applications, such as 22psi? will EVO 8 pistons work in these blocks? will the 2g head work?

evo 8 pistons will not work. Scot Seever AKA "scooter" already tried that. If you are going to build the motor...do a little research and build it right...as far as knowing what head you should run along with the rest of the internals. (Run a 1g head...the ports are bigger, run a 6 bolt 4G64 bottom end...with built internals) You cant use the stock 2.4 pistons because they dont have dual valve reliefs. My theory is...don't half azz it! Save your self the trouble, do it right the first time...you will be a lot more happy with yourself...and your car!

 

[Suparata]

You are something else. Bill must like you since you keep building engines and then blow them up and now you want to build another one even more expensive.

 

[BOOSTIN21]

evo 8 pistons will not work. Scot Seever AKA "scooter" already tried that. If you are going to build the motor...do a little research and build it right...as far as knowing what head you should run along with the rest of the internals. (Run a 1g head...the ports are bigger, run a 6 bolt 4G64 bottom end...with built internals) You cant use the stock 2.4 pistons because they dont have dual valve reliefs. My theory is...don't half azz it! Save your self the trouble, do it right the first time...you will be a lot more happy with yourself...and your car!

well i did my research on the heads and i dont want to get into another heated debate about which flows better (i think i purchased these for a reason) how much would i be looking at for lets say 8.5:1 or 8.8:1 compression pistons and what about rods.

 

[1fast97gsx]

You are something else. Bill must like you since you keep building engines and then blow them up and now you want to build another one even more expensive.

Actually I only lost 1 due to a bad oil pump, but that still sucks. My original one I sold due to that 7 bolt paranoia I had and I also wanted to go with a little higher compression. I'm assuming you're friends with bill or you just know him on a machine shop basis? You guys wouldn't happen to have any 2.4 blocks and cranks at your shop would you that are for sale? If worst came to worst I suppose a 6 bolt 2.4 crank is all I need as I have a standard sized n/t 2.0 6 bolt block in the garage still with some "big rods."

 

[Suparata]

I have more than one but they are not for sale as they are. They are very rare lately so don’t waste one if you won’t build it right.

 

[1fast97gsx]

In what state are they available for sale with what internals and at what pricing? If you could pm me that information I'd appreciate it. Also, I have a standard sized 6 bolt n/t block as well as a set of 2g pistons and 1g big rods.

How much would I be looking at for you to machine the rods for 2g pistons as well as adding squirters in that block ( unless you can do a core exchange type deal since a lot of forged motors don't require them ) with a hone and deck? How about assembly on that providing I give you the crank and bearings as well?

You can pm me the information / numbers if you don't want to post in this thread. Thanks.

 

[jpbrazill]

well i did my research on the heads and i dont want to get into another heated debate about which flows better (i think i purchased these for a reason) how much would i be looking at for lets say 8.5:1 or 8.8:1 compression pistons and what about rods.

WTF Hmm, ok. For wisecos, you are looking at about $450 for pistons, rings, wrist pins, and clips. Rods, if you go with Eagle, you are looking at about $320-350. Dont forget...if you are going to rebuild the motor, you will (hopefully) want to remove the balance shafts, and replace all the bearings...main and rods. And while you are down there..........get some arp main studs. Around $50 for the arp's.

Not to be a jerk...do some more research on heads. Why do you think all of the 2G guys go with 1g motors? The head and a 6 bolt bottom end are why. Granted, its a pain in the arse to do the swap...so Ive heard...but they all say it was worth it.

There are pictures of my head after the porting and polishing on my "ported and polished head pics" thread...its not on the car yet, still waiting for the valve springs and retainers from slowboy. Anyway...good luck with your swap, remember, do it right the first time...and you wont have problems.

 

[1fast97gsx]

Why do you think all of the 2G guys go with 1g motors? The head and a 6 bolt bottom end are why. Granted, its a pain in the arse to do the swap...so Ive heard...but they all say it was worth it.

Actually a 6 bolt in a 2g is very easy, however in a way I disagree with your head statement. It has been my experience that people actually prefer a built 2g head over a built 1g head. Stock for stock the amount of air a 2g can flow isn't all that impressive, but with those runners opened up enough you will have the perfect port size and design. Remember bigger isn't always better, it's all about the velocity as well as how much air you can take it that will determine which head is better.

 

[jpbrazill]

Actually a 6 bolt in a 2g is very easy, however in a way I disagree with your head statement. It has been my experience that people actually prefer a built 2g head over a built 1g head. Stock for stock the amount of air a 2g can flow isn't all that impressive, but with those runners opened up enough you will have the perfect port size and design. Remember bigger isn't always better, it's all about the velocity as well as how much air you can take it that will determine which head is better.

No, I agree with the fact that a built 2g head for a certain application can be better than a 1g head. With my motor, and port and polish job, I think the 1g head is better. I understand that bigger doesnt mean better...take a look at my port and polish head pics thread.

I am just saying that if you dont have the resources to port the head to the "t", then go with a 1g head.

 

[blue1]

Can anyone on here tell me the width of the 2.4 dohc timing belt? is it 3/4" or 1" Thanks

 

[93AWDTalon1]

1.2" wide belt

 

[iamtall77]

From all the research I've been doing, I decided to go with the 4G64 block. The NT blocks don't seem to suffer from crank walk like the turbo 4G63. Also with the added strength of the main girdle and the stronger 7-bolt crank. Yes, I did say stronger. The 6-bolt motors (4G63 and G64B) seem to break at the #4 fillet. The local expert around my parts has built plenty of engines off all sorts and highly recomends the 4G64.
He also claims to have a CURE for crankwalk. (every non-believer just opened there eyes and ears) He offers a lifetime no-walk gaurantee. You could build yourself an 800hp motor and run a rediculously high clamping clutch and never walk it. If you do, he'll rebuild it for free. He won't give out his secret though, so don't ask.
I just picked up my 4G64 block today from the bone yard for $75 and I'm happy with my choice.

 

[BOOSTIN21]

^^^well yes it is curable and it has been done before. a guy with a 2g in some magazine i was reading did some stuff and well he has 724 awhp. so we know it can be done.

but as for me doing a 2.4 swap is a little out of my price range. so i think i will build a 2.3. all you need is a little notch here and a little notch there and your set. you can even use your stock internals from the 4g63.

and to whoever said you cant run EVO VIII pistons in a 1g block than why the hell are they for sale in the parts catalog genius it only requires the same amount of machining that the 2g pistons do.

 

[1fast97gsx]

^^^well yes it is curable and it has been done before. a guy with a 2g in some magazine i was reading did some stuff and well he has 724 awhp. so we know it can be done.

but as for me doing a 2.4 swap is a little out of my price range. so i think i will build a 2.3. all you need is a little notch here and a little notch there and your set. you can even use your stock internals from the 4g63.

and to whoever said you cant run EVO VIII pistons in a 1g block than why the hell are they for sale in the parts catalog genius it only requires the same amount of machining that the 2g pistons do.

I give that the most useless and uninformed post award.

The price difference when properly building a 2.0 and a 2.4 shouldn't be that much at all. A stroker engine does NOT use stock internals ... where do you plan to get the extra displacement from?! You need to swap cranks and pistons at minimum and do some clearancing and to PROPERLY build this motor you still need to machine the block for the pistons, at least shotpeen the rods and polish the 2.4 crank you would be using. You could also do a 2.3 by using a 2.0 crank in a 2.4 block, but again it's not just as simple as that.

724 awhp doesn't mean crankwalk is cured ... it just means it hasn't happened yet.

Are you thinking of evo3 pistons or evo8s? I'm not sure on evo8 pistons, but either way why would you want to even bother with those?

 

[jpbrazill]

I give that the most useless and uninformed post award.

The price difference when properly building a 2.0 and a 2.4 shouldn't be that much at all. A stroker engine does NOT use stock internals ... where do you plan to get the extra displacement from?! You need to swap cranks and pistons at minimum and do some clearancing and to PROPERLY build this motor you still need to machine the block for the pistons, at least shotpeen the rods and polish the 2.4 crank you would be using. You could also do a 2.3 by using a 2.0 crank in a 2.4 block, but again it's not just as simple as that.

724 awhp doesn't mean crankwalk is cured ... it just means it hasn't happened yet.

Are you thinking of evo3 pistons or evo8s? I'm not sure on evo8 pistons, but either way why would you want to even bother with those?

I agree No clue as to why they have Evo VIII pistons for sale in the catalog...and to touch on that....why would you want to even mess with that? If you are going to build the motor...why not build it the right way? Putting Wiseco's or JE's or Ross would be a good idea.... ....dont let that secret out!

 

[BOOSTIN21]

hmm, i was merely trying to point something out about the evo 8 pistons, why would the catalog say that they require the same machining as 2g pistons??? misinformed... lets not flame here.

and about the 2.0 with the 2.4 crank in it, this is information that my friend told me about an hour before i made the post. he said i just need to make a notch in the block and somewhere on the crank, and its minor machining. again what i was told. i proceeded to ask if 4g63 internals would work, he said yes. i am posting here to learn more not to get bashed.

and yes i do plan on running built internals, eagle rods and wiseco pistons.