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2.3 with balance shaft for DD?

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saturnshadow

15+ Year Contributor
125
0
Sep 7, 2005
Fresno, California
Going to build a 2.3 stroker for a DD. It is worth keeping the balance shafts or not?
Also are the 4GCS balance shafts different then the 4G63? If so would it be better to use them? O and i run poly mounts.
 
I have a 2.3 as a daily as well and I'm using the Avid Racing solid mounts in 75A durometer . I am also using the fluiddampr harmonic balancer which is recommended by many shops for the 2.3. With the FP-4R cams and the solid mounts it does vibrate a good amount at idle but once I'm moving it is smooth as silk. As long as you use a good machine shop that can properly balance your rotating assembly you will be fine without them.
 
i have the fluiddampr harmonic balancer, and the place i go to does good work. i plan on using the BC 272's @ 5 degree retard on intake and 5 degree advance on the exhaust to start like keltalon. i would prefer not running the balance shafts, i just don't want teeth chattering like my saturn with the cnc mounts.
Still though, are the 4GCS balance shafts different?
 
I do not know if the other shafts are different.

I think as long as you have any kind of rubber mount your teeth will be fine.
 
I left mine in on both of my builds. I did some research on the matter when I was considering my options and found no conclusive evidence supporting either side of the fence.

I decided to keep mine based on not enjoying the idle rattle on cars I've ridden in without... thats the only reason (and to help aid my bolts staying nice and tight, LOL)
 
i guess i can do a side by side. i still have my 4GCS wideblock i was going to use for my starion, but i no longer have that car. one would think the 4GCS would have heaver offset weights then the 4g63.
 
The way I see it, the stock balance shafts are designed for the stock rotating assembly with an 88mm stroke crankshaft. Aftermarket pistons and rods are generally decently lighter than the factory pieces as well. Because of this, the stock balance shafts won't "match" your new application, and won't be as effective in cancelling out the vibrations.

This is how I see it with the knowledge I have on the subject.
 
The way I see it, the stock balance shafts are designed for the stock rotating assembly with an 88mm stroke crankshaft. Aftermarket pistons and rods are generally decently lighter than the factory pieces as well. Because of this, the stock balance shafts won't "match" your new application, and won't be as effective in cancelling out the vibrations.

This is how I see it with the knowledge I have on the subject.

With lighter weight rods and pistons the 2.3L has about the same harmonic forces as the stock 2.0L so the stock balance shafts have about the same effect.

See http://www.kidzuku.com/StrokeOrNot.pdf
 
With lighter weight rods and pistons the 2.3L has about the same harmonic forces as the stock 2.0L so the stock balance shafts have about the same effect.

See http://www.kidzuku.com/StrokeOrNot.pdf

Using the word about when referring to a high rpm, high load application is a terrifying thing. I would think that the safest thing to do is to not run balance shafts at all.

Personally for my engine I removed the front shaft and used a machined down rear shaft so it wouldn't mess with the balance and would still support the oil pump gear.
 
I've daily driven a 2.3L with no b-shafts and solid mounts. Its honestly not to bad unless your interior sucks. I didn't have any interior rattles in the mirage though.

2g interior use rattles quite a bit more. I would definently make sure you've fixed the window rattle if you have it. Really the only time it bothered me was at idle. Moving, its was hardly noticeable, most of the time the vibration felt pretty good on my back :D
 
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