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2.3 stroker crank?

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AMPPRC

10+ Year Contributor
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Sep 30, 2008
Desoto, Missouri
I'm building a 2.3 stroker. I was wandering what crank to use? I have read many different forums and people are running different ones. I'm planning on 350 hp. With a stroker would 272 cams be alright.
 
I'm building a 2.3 stroker. I was wandering what crank to use? I have read many different forums and people are running different ones. Im planning on 350 hp. With a stroker would 272 cams be alright.

Im running a 4g64 crank out of a 2000 eclipse, but you can also use the crank out of early model galants, il try and find the years they came in. And 272 cams will be fine.
 
Im running a 4g64 crank out of a 2000 eclipse, but you can also use the crank out of early model galants, il try and find the years they came in. And 272 cams will be fine.

Depending on how much money you have you can get an EGL forged crank. Manley has built cranks now for even more money. Both in stroker form... For the HP you want you can get that from a 2.0 motor. Its a bit off subject but 350 is not very much to justify they extra money for a stroker...unless you want a lot of TQ? I would say get a nice set of rods/pistons for your stock bottom end and call it day.

BTW: 6bolt or 7? Makes a difference for a stock 4g64 because from what I've seen the 6bolts 64's are hard to come by these days...Can someone verify this?

Also When you use cams, like 272 etc make sure you upgrade the valve springs! Kinda obvious statement, just FYI.
 
you need to use the 100mm crank from a 4g64. they can be found in some older galants and NA eclipse spyders. not sure about other cars.
 
Depending on how much money you have you can get an EGL forged crank. Manley has built cranks now for even more money. Both in stroker form... For the HP you want you can get that from a 2.0 motor. Its a bit off subject but 350 is not very much to justify they extra money for a stroker...unless you want a lot of TQ? I would say get a nice set of rods/pistons for your stock bottom end and call it day.

BTW: 6bolt or 7? Makes a difference for a stock 4g64 because from what I've seen the 6bolts 64's are hard to come by these days...Can someone verify this?

Also When you use cams, like 272 etc make sure you upgrade the valve springs! Kinda obvious statement, just FYI.


I know I'll need new springs I'm rebuilding a new head. So your say just a 2.0 instead of a 2.3. Why if the crank and pistons are the Same price?
 
I dont know why anyone would stay with a 2.0L if they had the money for the stroker pistons and 100mm crank.

I mean even you wanted to rev high, build a long rod 2.2 or 2.1...
 
I'm building a 2.3 stroker. I was wandering what crank to use? I have read many different forums and people are running different ones. Im planning on 350 hp. With a stroker would 272 cams be alright.

6-bolt or 7-bolt? If 6 bolt, you'll need a 4g64 crank out of a mitsu expo. If you need a 7-bolt, any 4g64 from 1992+ will do ya.

272's on a 2.3 will be like 264's on a 2.0. These engines LOVE to breathe. I would look into the FP cams, as they were designed to be used in stroker motors.

My 2.3L is using the 100mm crank from an expo with FP3's. It is torquey like you've never felt.
 
Not to pull away from the OP but what is the difference between a 2.1/2.2 LR and a 2.3 stroker?
 
Not to pull away from the OP but what is the difference between a 2.1/2.2 LR and a 2.3 stroker?

Crank / rod /piston / block selection

LOL, pretty much everything in the bottom end.

A 2.3 is a 2.0 4g63 block clearanced for a 4g64 crank with 2.0 rods, and stroker pistons

a 2.1 is a 2.4 4g64 block with a 2.0 crank and long rods. Gives you lower rod angle accelerations thereby increasing rev limits.
 
I understand that, but what are the advantages/disadvantages between the 2? I know with the 2.3 stroker you make more torque. Is the 2.1/2.2 "Long Rod" kinda of an in between option of the 2.0 and 2.3?

I guess I just have not heard of a 2.1 or 2.2 "Long Rod" and that is where my confusion/questions are coming from.
 
I understand that, but what are the advantages/disadvantages between the 2? I know with the 2.3 stroker you make more torque. Is the 2.1/2.2 "Long Rod" kinda of an in between option of the 2.0 and 2.3?

Torque vs available revs. 2.3 gives you more moment on the crank thereby more torque for a given force on a piston, but due to the large rod angles, you lose high end revs.
 
Ok, so with the 2.1/2.2LR you get more torque than say a 2.0 but more revs than a 2.3...if I understand that correctly.
 
6-bolt or 7-bolt? If 6 bolt, you'll need a 4g64 crank out of a mitsu expo. If you need a 7-bolt, any 4g64 from 1992+ will do ya.

272's on a 2.3 will be like 264's on a 2.0. These engines LOVE to breathe. I would look into the FP cams, as they were designed to be used in stroker motors.

My 2.3L is using the 100mm crank from an expo with FP3's. It is torquey like you've never felt.

i plan on building a 7bolt
 
And they are in no way, shape, form, or fashion street cars.

Torque gets you from stoplight to stoplight w/o having to rely on boost.

Beside trading 3-400 rpms of spoolup for an average of 1500 rpm less rev capability, there is a big problem with strokers. The w5m33 transmission hates torque. 600 whp at high rpm's with only 450 ft/lbs, will keep the transmission alive a lot longer than 600whp, and 600+ft/lbs from a stroker.

Anyone wanting "light to light torque, without relying on boost" should take a serious look at a v8.
 
There is more to it than displacement. There is rod ratios and piston speeds so on and so on... You can use the 4g64 crank for the 7 bolts or the g4cs crank for the 6 bolts.
 
Beside trading 3-400 rpms of spoolup for an average of 1500 rpm less rev capability, there is a big problem with strokers. The w5m33 transmission hates torque. 600 whp at high rpm's with only 450 ft/lbs, will keep the transmission alive a lot longer than 600whp, and 600+ft/lbs from a stroker.

Anyone wanting "light to light torque, without relying on boost" should take a serious look at a v8.

strokers start leveling torque and hp at around 450 (hp then begins to increase faster than torque), where as 2.0's at around 350-400.

You cannot put a static measure on "spoolup" gains from a stroker motor. My turbo (3582r HTA) begins to produce positive intake manifold pressure around 2250. Yea, FULL BOOST is only 300-400 rpms sooner than a 2.0, but the amount of airflow lower in the rpms is much higher.
 
Translab Shift Kit (High Performance Type) $92.00

Pan Gasket and Filter Kit, F4A33 / W4A33 $22.00

Brian Crower Camshafts & Valve Springs/Retainers Combo: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99

Selected options:
Camshaft Profile: 272/272 Degrees

$ 549.00


ACL Race "Tri-Metal" Rod & Main Bearing Set: Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99


Selected options:
Engine: 97-99 7 Bolt 4G63T
Main Beaing Size: Standard with .001" Oil Clearance
Rod Bearing Size: Standard with .001" Oil Clearance

$ 94.99



Ross Forged "2.3L Stroker" Racing Pistons w/ Rings (9.0 C.R.): Mitsubishi Eclipse 92-99 7-Bolt
Part number:
- 7-Bolt .020 Over Stroker 9.0:1 Compression Ratio: 99871

Selected options:
Size: 85.5mm Bore (.020 Over)

$ 439.95



Topline Complete Gasket Set : Mitsubishi Eclipse 90-99

Select Model: 2G 7 Bolt - CGSMI23T

$ 119.00

DSM Cometic and ARP Kit
Cometic and ARP Package

Selected options:
Application: 7 Bolt
Head Gasket Bore Size: 85.5mm(.020")


$173.99


New ITM 3G Lifters - Set of 16

$89.99

New Graveyard Motorsport Viton Valve Stem Seals - 90-99

$12.99

New Supertech Bronze Magnesium Valve Guide Set - 4G63

$79.99


Graveyard Motorsports Racing Valves - 4G63


$149.99


New Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit - 90-99


$39.99

New Eagle Forged 4340 Steel Crankshaft
[+] View list of options I selected
100mm

$549.99


and i already have Eagle H-Beam rods

Total Price = $2,463

Its going into a 99 gsx
 
And you are going to tune this with? What kind of turbo (I dearly hope not a t-25)?

You are changing a lot very quickly and you're not giving much thought into the headache that your ECU is going to have trying to accommodate it.

I would skip on those BC cams and get something more suited for the 2.3.
 
And you are going to tune this with? What kind of turbo (I dearly hope not a t-25)?

You are changing a lot very quickly and you're not giving much thought into the headache that your ECU is going to have trying to accommodate it.

I would skip on those BC cams and get something more suited for the 2.3.

DSMlink for tuning. I'm going to be useing a 14b. Until I can get a little more money. And I hold of on the cams for a awhile to I'll keep it stock
 
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