"2.0 L vs 2.3 L" which do you think?

[Drifter27_04]

I have recently started researching the 2.3 stroker motors and love what I have read on them. But now I am really wondering what I need to go with. Money is a somewhat issue but the biggest issue I am having at the time being is finding a used 2.4 crank. I am to the point of just boring the motor over 20-40 and put a set of wiseco/Ross forged pistons, clevite mains/bearing, arp bolts, shootpen the rods and maybe polishing the 63 crank and be done with it, .

I look more towards the 2.0 rebuild b/c i dont think the clutch (ACT2100) will hold up to a 2.3 power and than I would need to upgrade it as well as in other parts. I am also trying to work around with what I have installed as well.

If anyone of you guys can assist me on some information about the two ways of rebuilding the engine as for the 2.0 / 2.3 Liter. Main question at the time is can I building something that I can just come out of the hole spinning all four tires with a 2.0 rebuild. Check out my car profile and let me know your thoughts. I really would like to spin the tires and watch the other guy who plans on racing me jaw drop and think to hiself what have I gotten myself into and to do this I know I need a 2.3. Help me you guys. One more thing can anyone guest about HP and times (1/8 mile) I maybe looking at now as in later with the rebuilt 2.0 bottom end

 

[iwantawd]

first decide what you want out of the car. you want to spin all 4, you can do it with the 2liter and the 2.3. you need to base your decision on more than just how to build the motor itself but what turbo you want to run, how youre going to tune it, and so on.
if you plan on making enough power to spin all 4 youre going to need to upgrade the clutch anyways. the 2100 wont hold with awd and crazy launches like that.

 

[stephenz]

building the bottom dont really give you any more hp,its their to handle the power you are going to put in it.as for the 2.4l or 2.3liter you can easiely get a mits. expo block out of the junk yard for about $150-$200 here in ga. there is plenty of these motors sitting around in the local junkyards.if you are only looking for a 2.4 crank I can help you out with that.the good thing about the 2.3 is that its damm near impossible for someone to know what you got going on.as for the the full 2.4 the block itself sits 6mm higher meaning you will have to use the galant timing belt also their cam gears if you choose not to use adj's,you can also find the 6bolt 2.4's in the 91'(g4cs) hyundai sonata,and the 7bolt off the galants and certain diamante's.Everything pretty much fits except for the 7bolt you have to use 5 freeze plugs on the deck of the block.feel free to contact me if you have any futher questions@678-656-1113

stephen.

http://www.extremeevolutions.com/4G64_buildup.htm

http://4g64.150m.com/index.html

im not sure if these links still work but I hopes this help you out on you decision.

 

[stephenz]

thats the 7bolt w/ the freeze plugs


stephen.

 

[Drifter27_04]

building the bottom dont really give you any more hp,its their to handle the power you are going to put in it.as for the 2.4l or 2.3liter you can easiely get a mits. expo block out of the junk yard for about $150-$200 here in ga. there is plenty of these motors sitting around in the local junkyards.if you are only looking for a 2.4 crank I can help you out with that.the good thing about the 2.3 is that its damm near impossible for someone to know what you got going on.as for the the full 2.4 the block itself sits 6mm higher meaning you will have to use the galant timing belt also their cam gears if you choose not to use adj's,you can also find the 6bolt 2.4's in the 91'(g4cs) hyundai sonata,and the 7bolt off the galants and certain diamante's.Everything pretty much fits except for the 7bolt you have to use 5 freeze plugs on the deck of the block.feel free to contact me if you have any futher questions@678-656-1113

stephen.

http://www.extremeevolutions.com/4G64_buildup.htm

http://4g64.150m.com/index.html

im not sure if these links still work but I hopes this help you out on you decision.

Stephenz,

Thank you for the info and links. I will diffently use the links as reference. As for building the 2.3 stroker what will I need to take in consideration and what parts do I need to purchase other than the mains, ARP bolts, seals & gaskets, rods and pistons, and of course the crank?

A friend also told me that I will need to build everything based on the turbo setup I am running. I have a big 16g ported and clipped would this not be fine with the 2.3 stroker or would I need to sell it and invest in a bigger turbo, I have also read around that a 16g is a perfect setup for a stroker? I am fully aware of the stroker taking advantage of spooling bigger turbos quicker.

 

[scottsee]

i dont think a 16g is a good turbo for a stroker. you wont even beable to take advantage of the lowrange power the hybrid will make! you'll end up spooling the 16g around 2500rpm or less. you understand that 15% more airflow makes turbos spool faster right?.

edit: sorry about that spool question, i dont retain things untell the 3rd time i read them

you can spin awd on a built 2.0 and 16g tunned properly. and get 300whp. alot of people who build strokers love haveing larger turbos becasue you get the best of both worlds haveing added low end toqure with great gas milege for running around town and fast spoolup for larger turbos.

strokers lower your rpm limitation becasue the extra 12mm increases piston speed per revolution. so if your looking to wind the engine to 8000rpm stick with the 2.0. i dont think many people with 2.3's or 2.4's rev past 7500+. the couple of guys i know wont take the chance over 7k. with 3 grand invested its not worth the coniquence.

once you dicide 100% on a stroker you'll need to buy stroker specific pistons. grinde a few spots on the block and main caps. all somewhat easy to acomplish. the parts, and what you want to put in the block are up to you, but in my humble opinion a 16g is no stroker turbo!!

 

[herostar]

To build the 2.3L stroker at a bare minimum you will need to get a 4g64 crank and custom pistons with the wrist pins moved up 6mm to accomidate for the increase in stroke. All other stock stuff works. I would deffinately recommend upgrading your rods though... if you're building a stroker motor I'd assume you're planning on making more power than they can handle.

 

[Drifter27_04]

Scottsee and Herostar,

Thank you two for the info it helps alot. I believe I will go with a 2.0L rebuild. I like the feeling of not worring about over revving the engine and listing to things come apart. Being that this is the first AWD turbo car I better play it safe. As of right now I have a buddy (Venom69) that is about finish building his 2.0L so that I will make my decision for sure. Anyways since my decision is pointed down the 2.0L way I was going to hide a 55-75 shot somewhere and be done with it.


If I was able to ride in a stroked talon it would would be so much simplier to decide.


Herostar, If I was to go with the 2.3L I will be replacing the crank with some wiseco pistons and eagle/scat rods with some clevite mains, with ARP bolts, and some few more goodies.

 

[scottsee]

if you rode in a 2.3 stroker you wouldnt even consider buiding up a 2.0. the cost is minisquile

 

[Drifter27_04]

if you rode in a 2.3 stroker you wouldnt even consider buiding up a 2.0. the cost is minisquile

Explain when you say "the cost is minisquile" please.


Other than filling a stock 14b coming out of the hole I can not imagine the 2.4L would fill like. Can you relate the difference inbetween the 2.0 / 2.4? I can only go by what others say and discribe about the filling. All I have been reading is about the greater bottom end torque.

 

[herostar]

After riding in my 2.0 with my big28 and then riding in the 2.3 with my 60-1 it's sort of hard to compare, but the boost characteristics are quite similar in how soon they come on, realizing that the 2.3 adn 60-1 pull a hell of a lot harder all the way past redline... In the lower rpm range <3500rpm the 2.3L is alot more fun to drive and has tons more torque.

 

[Drifter27_04]

After riding in my 2.0 with my big28 and then riding in the 2.3 with my 60-1 it's sort of hard to compare, but the boost characteristics are quite similar in how soon they come on, realizing that the 2.3 adn 60-1 pull a hell of a lot harder all the way past redline... In the lower rpm range <3500rpm the 2.3L is alot more fun to drive and has tons more torque.

What did you need to purchase in building your 2.3? Set aside the crank, pistons, rods, balance shaft elimantor kit, gaskets and seals, etc...etc. what would be my standard list to buy parts. I am also aware of haveing to buy a ACT 2600 pressure plate to with stand the torque.

 

[herostar]

Besides the different crank and pistons everything for building a 2.3L would be the same as building a 2.0L. There really isn't anything super special about a stroker build besides having to clearance the block and main girdle (or main caps if it's a 6-bolt) to fit the larger crank.

I don't have a parts list off hand, but the stuff you mentioned in your post is about everything. It's just a your basic engine build with a different crank and custom pistons.

 

[Drifter27_04]

Ok you guys I have made my final decision and going with the 2.3 build. Now a quick question before I forget. I have a unorthadox lightweight crank pulley and a Fidanza flywheelon my stock crank. With the extra weight of the crank would ya'll say keep them on? My biggest question is that people speaks highly of the Crankshaft Pulley /Harmonic Dampener b/c of the rev issue I think. I can not recall the hull story but should I stay with the pulley I have now are sell it and get a Harmonic Dampener pulley?

BTW, thanks for the information Scott and Hero. Also if y'all can hand out any suggestion about the rebuild I would appreciate it alot.

 

[scottsee]

i would strongly suggest using only mitsu's harmonic dampener pulley. there are lots of threads that explain why.. you can keep your flywheel.

there are a couple of fitmint issues that can be resulved by digrinding part of the main cap, i think its #3 and a little off the block for the extra 12mm rotation. other then that if you can find a good used hyundai 89-91 crankshaft from the 2.4l sonata's you'll just need stroker pistons that have the 6mm pins lifted. this has been disscussed so many times i feel like i'm proof reading / editing a paper.

i've found hyundai block on car-parts.com for $150. you can use the rods and crankshaft from that or just the crankshaft. other then that and what i listed above, a good polish and check of the crank, 1g rods, cleviet main/rod bearings, arp rod/main/head fastiners and a good cometic gasket will be fine.