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1st time turning engine over, what is this noise!? *video*

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Is the piston #1 top dead center? crank and others all lined up on the bottom when you replaced the timing belt?

Sure was, I check the timing atleast 3x after I did the belt and the engine was still on the stand. It lined up each time. After I put the trans on it and dropped them into the engine I dont recall trying to turn it by hand, so im assuming it has something to do with the trans-clutch situation.
 
I did the fork mod for the clutch. And when I think about it: the last time I turned it over by hand was right before I had the trans on it... I used this same trans on my previous motor, so Im not sure what the issue could be. And im 99% sure I installed the clutch properly. I even think I made a thread somewhere with pics to confirm it was correct!

There's the issue. Something with the trans/clutch/flywheel/starter.

Did you install the starter plate?

You need to pull the trans off.
 
Could it be I have somehow broken a shift fork and its stuck in one of the gears? Is there an easy way to test this theory and possibly find out which gears fork could be damaged before pulling the trans?

And the starter plate was installed, yes
 
Could it be I have somehow broken a shift fork and its stuck in one of the gears? Is there an easy way to test this theory and possibly find out which gears fork could be damaged before pulling the trans?

And the starter plate was installed, yes

Like stated by many before you need to pull the trans off no matter what.
 
Well, I took off the front cover to see if I could see any metal pieces if it were a broken fork, and while under the car I said what the hey, let me look at the slave cylinder/fork area. I ripped off the small rubber boot that surrounds the fork, and it LOOKS LIKE the fork has been riding the outside pressure plate side of the clutch... it looks like when brakes are metal to metal-- So Im going to say there is our problem. Now that Ive found this--- whats the fix?

--I have the Isuzu slave cylinder, but on it now is the stock one... would switching help? It comes with its own, longer rod
--should I shave down the fork even more?
-- adjust the pedal/rod out 1/4" or so so that it will clear?

Thanks for the help so far guys :) Im assuming the sound we heard was the chatter of the discs in the clutch rattling when the housing was turning against the fork.
 
Just a quick update on this:

I dropped the trans and filed the fork just a bit more... it was contacting the pressure plate (which is why it wouldnt start with the clutch engaged). Put it back on, and had the same contact problem. After thinking for a few minutes I decided to take another look in the trans... there was ONE shim behind the pivot ball that I hadnt noticed before! Problem solved, and def a headache having to drop the trans to remove one washer!!

So now I can turn the car over without using the clutch. Doing THIS, I figured out that the sound doesnt necessarily come and go with the spark plugs, but with the clutch being engaged/not engaged. Clutch pressed and I get the noise, clutch not pressed, I get no noise. Keeping in mind Im running a QM twin disk, would this a normal chatter of the disks when the clutch is pressed (meaning the disks arent sandwiched together) and turning over the engine?
 
Marked this as resolved. Apparently the sound is "normal" with twin disk clutches starting with the clutch pressed down (spark plugs were irrelevant). As stated, the problem with me not being able to turn the engine by hand came from the shim behind the release fork causing the fork to contact the clutch cover. All fixed. Thanks guys!!
 
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