1G 1gb 7 bolt crankwalk?

[Compound1g]

Not sure if this is the correct subform to post this in

I just finished building my 1gb, put about 1000km on it and starting having clutch disengagement issues, had a couple other issues such as oil leaks, so I pulled the motor out and found the thrust bearing was completely destroyed, and killed the thrust surface on the crank as well. Before the rebuild, the motor had 220,000km on it and never had cw issues so I don't understand why it walked in just barely 1000km, I pulled the crank and put a newer one in, but before I did that, I ran the pump with a drill and primed to system to ensure that oil was getting to the mains properly, and it seems to be.
Now, I've setup a compound system using a 16g and the stock turbo, seems to work well, I used the stock oil line from the head for the stock turbo, and ran a line from the OFH for the second turbo, I was thinking that maybe having two lines would be pushing too much oil, and limiting how much gets to the mains, does that make sense?
Oil pressure always seemed low, but the stock guage sucks and I don't know exactly what my pressure is, but with the balance shafts eliminated, it should read higher than the first mark at 6k rpm, but it always read low, not quite sure why, it's a new oil pump as well so thats probably not an issue. Anyway, I just want it make sure it won't cw again, but I'm not sure exactly why it did to begin with

 

[DSMPT]

base timing was off, had it too advanced

Yeah thought so... turn the CAS counterclockwise all the way out then get only 4-5°BTDC isn't right. Sounds like the car now starts running as it should, glad to hear that.

 

[Compound1g]

One other thing, I've had transmission issues since I got this thing put back together, I've shimmed the pivot ball (head bolt washer+ another thin washer), adjusted the mc rod as far as I can, and even tried shoving something behind the sc rod to lengthen it (just to test, was getting pissed off that nothing was making a difference), nothing changes the engagement point, it still doesn't disengage till less than an inch from the floor, shift fork is not worn or bent, its straight and sits closer to the drivers side of the hole, close to the sc. I initially thought the synchros were shot or something but I checked it over again tonight and I'm pretty sure the clutch is dragging, it shouldn't grind with the clutch fully depressed and at a stop, its like trying to shift without pushing the pedal, its hard to put it into any gear, regardless if at a stop or moving.
previous owner replaced the master, and I replaced the slave, I noticed that the fwd slaves have a larger bore, could I have been given a fwd one by mistake? is there any way to tell the difference between a fwd and awd one?
act2600, stock flywheel (machined, unsure how much)

 

[DSMPT]

IIRC, the only difference in FWD/AWD slave cylinder is the position/direction of inlet. You can upload a pic of your slave cylinder to distinguish.

As the car was running well before put back the engine and if you believe it is adjusted properly and the master/slave cylinder are in good working condition, then possibilities could be...
- Not bled enough
- The step height is wrong
- Broken throw out bearing
- Clutch pedal/bar got cracked
- Clutch line or the restrictor of slave cylinder is clogged
- Loose/broken pressure plate bolts
- Transmission is not mounted properly
(Missing starter plate, missing some bolt, etc)

You can test the clutch drag with the method in the screenshot below.
It is taken from Jacks Transmissions.
https://jackstransmissions.com/blogs/pages/clutch-drag-kills-synchros

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

 

[Compound1g]

- The step height is wrong, most likely, but the fact that I have it set so the shift fork sits closer to the drivers side, I don't think that's the issue

- Broken throw out bearing, doubt it, it's new and this has been an issue since day one

- Clutch pedal/bar got cracked, I couldn't find any play in the pedal assembly, my guess is the previous owner probably already repaired it

- Clutch line or the restrictor of slave cylinder is clogged, new hose, but old line(no leaks) unsure about resistrictor, where is it located?

- Loose/broken pressure plate bolts, doubt it, I torqued them and locktighted everything

- Transmission is not mounted properly
(Missing starter plate, missing some bolt, etc, this is a possibility, I had a hell of a time getting the trans on last time, it just wouldn't line up for some reason, I got it all together though, bolts all tight, I'll double check them tonight though

I looked at some pictures of fwd and AWD slaves, and I definitely have an AWD one, so we can rule that out at least

 

[Compound1g]

Removed the extended rod, and adjusted the Mc rod in about an inch, and the pedal dropped down a couple inches, moved it by hand and could feel alot of play in the assembly, so I think it's pretty safe to say it's a worn Assembly, I'll pull it this weekend and see

 

[Compound1g]

Pulled the assembly out, it wasn't too bad, welded it up anyways, definitely helped, but didn't fix the issue, I ended up welding a nut onto the end of the clevis to allow me to adjust the Mc rod just a little but more and that seemed to do it, it disengages like this now
Top
|
|
|
Here
|
|
Bottom

I can get it even farther up, but I think it's decent where it is.
I think it's safe to say the issue is fixed