- Thread starter
- #26
carvinbassplyr
10+ Year Contributor
- 211
- 10
- Dec 15, 2010
-
Waterford,
Michigan
Well the idle was fixed per the suggestions on here about backing the screw out so it only acts a stopper to keep the throttle plate from sticking. However, the car still shuts off if you have to stop fast at higher speeds. It's almost as if the car is going into complete fuel cut when the throttle closes instead of going back to a baseline idle speed? If I drive the car like a grandma it doesn't do it, but if I'm going through gears trying to merge onto an express way and someone cuts me off forcing me to take the car out of gear and slam on my breaks the car will just turn off. I replaced the Idle Control Motor that came in the 1G throttle body with the one out of the original body. I tested the pins before I installed it and the sensor checked out per the Ohms specs given in the manual. I'm really stumped on this one. I don't want to take it to a shop cause it's an automatic $100+ to do diagnostics anymore. Any ideas?
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Quite a few people recommended the lighter flywheel on here so I figured it would be a good upgrade, but no one mentioned the fairly common stalling problem it causes. The car is still having some intermittent idle issues so I will make sure to get those buttoned up before pursuing the correction/compensation for the lightened flywheel. I do feel somewhat lucky in the meantime to NOT be one of the people posting "Why does my car stall every time I press the clutch in?" since when the car is idling and I push the clutch in the rpms stay strong, dropping 100 rpms at the most if at all. So for now I don't have to be starring at the dreaded C word. If buttoning up the intermittent idle issues doesn't fix the stalling from the lighter flywheel however, my car is dead in the water without tuning software (which I can't afford
)