The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

1G 1g Rear Caliper Question

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

greddy_1700

15+ Year Contributor
1,037
91
Aug 27, 2006
Regina, SK, Canada
Hey, Just wanted to double check with you guys since I am away from my car for the next three months. On the 1g, are all the rear calipers the same? Like will any rear caliper from 90-94 be the same?

Also since I havnt looked at my car in a while, is there a rear bracket? Or does the caliper just bolt straight on to the hub?

I am getting stuff powdercoated while I'm away from home so I want to make sure I get everything I need coated.

Thanks in advance,

Garret.
 
It took me a minute to find it again, as I only read it in passing, but here it is:

MR407497 That's a left rear parking brake cable for a D52A (3G 2.4L Eclipse 1999-2005).
MB520483 is the part number for a D27A (1G AWD).

Just replace the caliper. If the guide bolt is frozen inside the caliper you not only have to get it out but bore out all the rust and then sleeve it. The odds are that the parking brake actuator is also rusted and you (the average person) can't get the needle bearing needed to rebuild it.

And here is the thread link:
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/347902-rear-caliper-problem.html

Like I said in my post, I only read this, so I can't conferm. But, with the age of our cars, and the relitive ease of getting the replacement caliper (now that the part numbers are listed in the post above), just order a new one and don't risk that 'needle bearing' part being bad or damaged... IMO

:aha: I think the question was if a 91-94 rear caliper would fit on a 90 without any modification. Autozone is bad, really bad, but occasionally they do manage to put the right year part in the box (I've had rebuilt 96 mirage CV axle end up in a NEW 92 Eclipse CV box before) so I'm not surprised that they can replace with like kind parts. I'm trying to find out if 91-94 GSX rear calipers, which are larger w/o going aftermarket, are similar enough in brake line placement (which seems likely) to work.

I just can't believe no one has tried it in the past couple decades...

I've done all I can to get you the answer. It is in my post above.

If you can't follow my train of thought, than I apologize for my inability to express it better. There's not much more I can do to help...

In regards to Auto Zone. They have always been great to me; always!

They have a great loaner tool program and will match all prices; they stay open later than any other part store in my area and that is important to me. Sure they have their own parts brand, so one could argue that their Duralast band is not as good as others, but I have NEVER had an issue with their stuff.

However, Schucks (now O'reilly) has given me the wrong part more times than they've given me the right one. I recall trying to order CV shaft seals for my 90 GSX; they ordered the wrong seal the first time, and then re-ordered the same seal again. A $120 floor jack from Schucks blew out the oil seal in the first week of use; this could have killed me if I was under it at the time! The first $100 air compressor I got from Schucks to boost test with had the regulator just fall off as I took it out of the box. At least they replaced it, and I still have it today.
 
Last edited:
I think the question was if a 91-94 rear caliper would fit on a 90 without any modification.

True... but I figured it wouldn't hurt to include the option of rebuilding the existing calipers for someone wanting to spend less money for a like-new OEM caliper instead of a more expensive parts store caliper. ;)


But, with the age of our cars, and the relitive ease of getting the replacement caliper (now that the part numbers are listed in the post above), just order a new one and don't risk that 'needle bearing' part being bad or damaged... IMO

Well it's easy to tell what condition things are in when you pull the caliper. If it's totally shot, replace the whole thing. But if not, why not rebuild it and save some bucks? I'll admit that rebuilding 1G rear calipers can be a PITA, but I get some satisfaction out of taking on jobs like that. YMMV of course.

BTW - This set I just rebuilt had about 120k on them and were pretty nasty looking. But they cleaned up great with some elbow grease and new seals.

They have a great loaner tool program and will match all prices; they stay open later than any other part store in my area and that is important to me. Sure they have their own parts brand, so one could argue that their Duralast band is not as good as others, but I have NEVER had an issue with their stuff.

Semi OT I guess, but I've had hit-and-miss experiences with all parts stores except Napa, which I've always had good luck with. I had a new "OEM replacement" harmonic balancer from O'Reillys disentegrate after 3k miles, and countless alternators and starters from Autozone that didn't last much longer than the time it took to install them. But I've also run some alts and starters that have lasted. With parts stores, I think it's the consistency that gets you...not whether or not you "may" get a good part.
 
Semi OT I guess, but I've had hit-and-miss experiences with all parts stores except Napa, which I've always had good luck with. I had a new "OEM replacement" harmonic balancer from O'Reillys disentegrate after 3k miles, and countless alternators and starters from Autozone that didn't last much longer than the time it took to install them. But I've also run some alts and starters that have lasted. With parts stores, I think it's the consistency that gets you...not whether or not you "may" get a good part.

As to the off topic-ness... I just believe that if someone is going to knock something or someone they should support their claim or at least attempt to. (not trying to imply anything with this statement)

I guess there will be issues with all parts stores. What it really comes down to is the customer service, store hours, return policy, and parts avalibility more than the parts. If you're not going with OEM, it's all hit or miss.
 
Last edited:
Hmm, there seems to be some cross firing brain cells. I'm not trying to say you didn't answer some part of the question but I'm trying to figure out if the (in AutoZone speak) if the C8025 will directly fit in place of the C8117. The reason they have 2 different part #'s for 90's is due to late year changes to the newer "91+" style of caliper in May. I have a Dec 89 build so I have the early style 90 if that makes things a little clearer.

As far as AutoZone itself goes, maybe they've tightened their quality control 1000% since I dealt with them in the past. When I dealt with them on a poor-boy's minimum wage salary they were all I could afford to keep my cars limping in a vaguely forward direction. I bought rotors that wouldn't outlast the pads, 6 alternators die in the course of 2 years (always replaced under warranty but a major PITA to change every few months), batteries, and various other parts that when replaced with NAPA or Advanced Auto parts would miraculously stop failing.

They WERE the first to pioneer the loan-a-tool program (which I used quite a bit back then) and that was a god send! All in all though, I still don't trust my life to a parts counter guy saying it'll work, I want someone who's done it and survived to verify it! The thing about working at a parts counter is, you don't have to know a thing about cars to get the job! It helps, but it's not required. I'm sure you or someone you know has walked in and asked for rings for a 87 RX-7 before just to see the blank look...
 
ATTENTION ALL 90 TALON AWD TSI OWNERS.

The non AWD rear calipers from the 91 to 94 Talon non turbo / turbo are an exact swap. I do not care what anyone tells you saying they are not the same. Tell them because racecar.

The only difference is when you install them in the non AWD the ebrake cable bolts on the bottom and the AWD ebrake cable seems shorter so I was only able to get one side to set with the ebrake but I'm happy with it, it works.

All you have to do to make them fit the AWD is bolt the ebrake bracket leg, (the piece that is steel and comes off the cable itself and bolts to the caliper) to the top instead of the bottom. It does not affect anything and your ebrake will work the same.

This is an awesome piece of advise because its near impossible to hunt down cheap new or used rear calipers for the 90s especially when every site and person says the parts are incompatible.

YOUR WELCOME.
 
Alright most of this is pertaining to AWD.

My situation is I have a 90 FWD 2.0 NT, my rear passenger side is locked up, can I use a rear caliper off of any 90-94 NT FWD?

And if not, is there a way to convert it to work 92 and up (all the scrap yards and parts stores say they wont work 92 and up but I dont see why)
 
Last edited:
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top