General 1G Non-EPROM ECU

[Gracer]

Is my non-EPROM ECU in good condition? It looks fine to me...

Had in my car since 2012. Came off a 1991 GST and currently in my 1992 TSi AWD

Also. Is this computer able to be programmed like an EPROM unit?

I'd like to run a 20g turbo that I have and have goals to make 350awhp.

Will I need a different ECU to run DSMLink? or is there any options I can do with this ECU?

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[CrackedDSM]

There does look like there's some corrosion on the board. How do the under-side of the caps look? Are they flat, or are they bulging? If they're bulging the caps might've leaked out. On the underside of the board looks like there's some corrosion too.


It's a non-EPROM, which means there's no programmable chip on the bottom right of the board. That's what's used for ECMLink. I am not sure if ECMTuning still offers it, but they used to offer a non-eprom to EPROM conversion service. Check their website. If they still do, I'd send the ECU out and have them look it over/repair anything that's sus, and convert it. From there all you'll need in the future is the ECMLink V3 Full package and it'll be plug and play to tune.

I also included a picture below of problem areas on 1G ECUs that you look at. The center section is where the caps are that leak, and the right area is where the (I think, someone correct me if I'm wrong) IC105 burns out if the ISC Motor kills it. It'll be physically burned or warped when you look at it.

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Edit: This is a great article from ECMTuning themselves about bad boards and signs to look out for. https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/ecurepairhome


Edit #2: After looking at the close up pictures you have, I can definitely see some beginning evidence that the caps are leaking. Look at the top most cap, find the three pins directly north of it. See the brown on them? There's also some deep green spots.

 

[Gracer]

There does look like there's some corrosion on the board. How do the under-side of the caps look? Are they flat, or are they bulging? If they're bulging the caps might've leaked out. On the underside of the board looks like there's some corrosion too.


It's a non-EPROM, which means there's no programmable chip on the bottom right of the board. That's what's used for ECMLink. I am not sure if ECMTuning still offers it, but they used to offer a non-eprom to EPROM conversion service. Check their website. If they still do, I'd send the ECU out and have them look it over/repair anything that's sus, and convert it. From there all you'll need in the future is the ECMLink V3 Full package and it'll be plug and play to tune.

I also included a picture below of problem areas on 1G ECUs that you look at. The center section is where the caps are that leak, and the right area is where the (I think, someone correct me if I'm wrong) IC105 burns out if the ISC Motor kills it. It'll be physically burned or warped when you look at it.

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Edit: This is a great article from ECMTuning themselves about bad boards and signs to look out for. https://www.ecmtuning.com/wiki/ecurepairhome


Edit #2: After looking at the close up pictures you have, I can definitely see some beginning evidence that the caps are leaking. Look at the top most cap, find the three pins directly north of it. See the brown on them? There's also some deep green spots.

Damn, really. I thought it looked ok but I think I see where you're talking about. I'm going to get it in better lighting

I see the brown in the one pic but the caps aren't bulging and the underside of the board looks perfect. Could this be enough damage to make the car nearly impossible to start?

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[CrackedDSM]

Disclaimer: I am nowhere near an electronics expert. I don't really see any kind of smoking gun, I just see evidence here and there.


@steve and others are waaaaaay better with this than I am. They'll hopefully come in and correct any misinfo I've said, or confirm anything I missed.

It might be perfectly good and normal. I just don't like the brown spots, and the green rings around a lot of the terminals/pads. Also in that last pic you posted, either that's a shadow or there's a nifty burn mark on the board. Might just be the lighting. Marked it in the picture below.

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[steve]

Yes, the capacitors have leaked and need to be removed, the board cleaned and any corroded traces repaired.

The discoloration of the conformal coating on the leads of the voltage regulator pass transistor doesn't look to be an issue it's all the dark spots on the circuit traces and the places where the solder is no longer smooth and shiny that are problems.

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There are speckles of corrosion all over this area but note the ones around C19, C44, R46, and the traces to the CPU (IC6). Anywhere there is corrosion on a trace it will need to be measured to make sure it's intact and cleaned up. Because the leakage damage is spread over much of the board the metal heatsink will need to be removed so the area under it can be inspected.

None of the pictures show the top of the white edge connector so I can't verify that the circuit board matches the case but the case (top cover) is from a 93 Federal MT AWD.

I'm not sure I'd invest much in this ECU given the extent of the corrosion and wanting to run DSMLink. I'd look for a clean EPROM ECU.

 

[Gracer]

Disclaimer: I am nowhere near an electronics expert. I don't really see any kind of smoking gun, I just see evidence here and there.


@steve and others are waaaaaay better with this than I am. They'll hopefully come in and correct any misinfo I've said, or confirm anything I missed.

It might be perfectly good and normal. I just don't like the brown spots, and the green rings around a lot of the terminals/pads. Also in that last pic you posted, either that's a shadow or there's a nifty burn mark on the board. Might just be the lighting. Marked it in the picture below.

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Wow good eyes
Yeah now I see three spots that look burnt!

Yes, the capacitors have leaked and need to be removed, the board cleaned and any corroded traces repaired.

The discoloration of the conformal coating on the leads of the voltage regulator pass transistor doesn't look to be an issue it's all the dark spots on the circuit traces and the places where the solder is no longer smooth and shiny that are problems.

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There are speckles of corrosion all over this area but note the ones around C19, C44, R46, and the traces to the CPU (IC6). Anywhere there is corrosion on a trace it will need to be measured to make sure it's intact and cleaned up. Because the leakage damage is spread over much of the board the metal heatsink will need to be removed so the area under it can be inspected.

None of the pictures show the top of the white edge connector so I can't verify that the circuit board matches the case but the case (top cover) is from a 93 Federal MT AWD.

I'm not sure I'd invest much in this ECU given the extent of the corrosion and wanting to run DSMLink. I'd look for a clean EPROM ECU.

Ok thanks Steve for all that information!
Guess I'll be looking to get a new computer along with DSM link.
Interesting about the top case being a 93 when the bottom case says 90/91? Does that even make sense, I thought 90 models were different than 91?

Anyways here is a pic or two of the end with this number printed on it (0878M)

I'm curious to know what exact circuit board this is? I can tell it's a turbo model and if I recall it doesn't matter the drivetrain. It seemed to work for quite some time for me but I'm wondering if this is why I'm having issues with my car not starting?

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[steve]

0878M is short for E2T60878 like on the case. It's not original to the car you got it out of. Some scrapper put the writing on the bottom and like usual it's wrong. The board matches the case and both are from a 93 Federal MT AWD car.

90 ECUs are different from the 91+ versions just like many of the other parts on the first year cars.

It's very possible the ECU is part of the reason you're having problems starting your car but it might not be the only reason. First question I always ask, does the CEL turn on for 5 seconds and then turn off when you turn the ignition key on? The factory boost gauge should also move to 0 and stay there until you start cranking the engine.

If it doesn't then it's likely the ECU is booting up and that will keep the car from starting but before spending money you need to identify why it isn't booting and that involves checking the MPI circuit. There is a detailed thread here on diagnosing that.

 

[Gracer]

0878M is short for E2T60878 like on the case. It's not original to the car you got it out of. Some scrapper put the writing on the bottom and like usual it's wrong. The board matches the case and both are from a 93 Federal MT AWD car.

90 ECUs are different from the 91+ versions just like many of the other parts on the first year cars.

It's very possible the ECU is part of the reason you're having problems starting your car but it might not be the only reason. First question I always ask, does the CEL turn on for 5 seconds and then turn off when you turn the ignition key on? The factory boost gauge should also move to 0 and stay there until you start cranking the engine.

If it doesn't then it's likely the ECU is booting up and that will keep the car from starting but before spending money you need to identify why it isn't booting and that involves checking the MPI circuit. There is a detailed thread here on diagnosing that.

Ok yeah the CEL turns on for 5 seconds and goes away and stock boost gauge goes to 0 and then shows vacuum when cranking

 

[steve]

Still could be an issue with the ECU but you need a datalogger/MUT to look at what the ECU is seeing. The ECT sensor is well know for causing starting issues and for the connector failing so that one thing to check. Get the no start guide and run through all the steps.

 

[Gracer]

Still could be an issue with the ECU but you need a datalogger/MUT to look at what the ECU is seeing. The ECT sensor is well know for causing starting issues and for the connector failing so that one thing to check. Get the no start guide and run through all the steps.

ok

 

[CrackedDSM]

Told you Steve was better at it than me.

 

[Gracer]

Lol. You both been a great help