ECMlink 1G MAP sensor reads positive

[Nii]

I'm having issues getting my 1g to idle. I have a lot I need to dial in like fuel trims, AFR, and what not but I want to figure out why my MAP reads positive with key on and at idle. I'm seeing around 5psi on the GM 3bar and ECU boost is very similar.

Have y'all had this issue before?

 

[We're on Boost]

For a little more brake hose info, I took a picture of mine, because it is pretty much new and clean, and you can read the green text that says "engine" and see the arrow pointing towards the intake manifold. And the type of clamp on the end.

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[Nii]

For a little more brake hose info, I took a picture of mine, because it is pretty much new and clean, and you can read the green text that says "engine" and see the arrow pointing towards the intake manifold. And the type of clamp on the end.

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thank you I appreciate all the help so much! did you see the log I uploaded with the new parameter added?

 

[We're on Boost]

did you see the log I uploaded with the new parameter added?

Yes, they are there, good!
CrankingFuelAdjust is definitely working (it adds a lot of fuel for about half a minute after cranking a cold start).
That's something you need in the logs, partly because you need that extra richness for cold starts, and partly because when your wideband reads really rich during that time, it's good to know that part of the reason for that richness is the cranking fuel adjust, which is supposed to be happening.

But your AFR during that time right after cold start should only be around 11 or 12 to 1. Not 8 to 1 which is what we see in your log! At the moment I don't think we should try to correct that until you get the new MAP sensor on the car.

There is one other thing related to the wideband that we could change right away, and that you can see at 142.9 seconds in the last log. At that time, the Front O2 jumps from 0.20 to 0.80 volts, even though the LC1WB reading doesn't change at all. I think it is because on your NBO2 Sim page you have "Delay for: 15 seconds". And that 142.9 is about 15 seconds after the most recent restart. I think you should change that 15 seconds to a small number, like 5 seconds. It seems like you don't need the long delay, and the shorter delay will make Front O2 in sync with LC1WB and with the raw voltage sooner. The raw voltage from the wideband you will find as RawLC1WB. Whenever the raw voltage crosses over your "WB switch point" voltage, it should switch the Front O2 voltage (which will always be either 0.20 or 0.80 when you are simulating it). There are other places in that log where you can see this switch working normally, like at 66.8 seconds. It is switching at about 2.43 volts like it should.

Do you know how to show the raw values ? (like raw voltage)
I've been looking at the raw voltages for the wideband and for the MAP sensor. They are good to keep an eye on, especially at first.

ISCPosition is the other one you got turned on, and it looks like it's working. We'll know better after the car is running more like normal. The ISC is a really important thing, you've probably read about it. But since you don't have a FIAV anymore due to the aftermarket throttle body (right?) you super need to have a well-working ISC.
This is like my car (no FIAV and an aftermarket throttle body).

You should maybe take a look at my cold start video showing the gauges and the logger running. Since then I have leaned up my cranking fuel adjust settings quite a bit and leaned my basic idle VE a little bit, so my cold starts are slightly better now (they were a bit too rich at the time of the video). But still it's a good reality check for getting started with your setup which is similar to mine in a lot of ways. Read the whole Description field ("more") on the video while you are in there!

 

[Nii]

Yes, they are there, good!
CrankingFuelAdjust is definitely working (it adds a lot of fuel for about half a minute after cranking a cold start).
That's something you need in the logs, partly because you need that extra richness for cold starts, and partly because when your wideband reads really rich during that time, it's good to know that part of the reason for that richness is the cranking fuel adjust, which is supposed to be happening.

But your AFR during that time right after cold start should only be around 11 or 12 to 1. Not 8 to 1 which is what we see in your log! At the moment I don't think we should try to correct that until you get the new MAP sensor on the car.

There is one other thing related to the wideband that we could change right away, and that you can see at 142.9 seconds in the last log. At that time, the Front O2 jumps from 0.20 to 0.80 volts, even though the LC1WB reading doesn't change at all. I think it is because on your NBO2 Sim page you have "Delay for: 15 seconds". And that 142.9 is about 15 seconds after the most recent restart. I think you should change that 15 seconds to a small number, like 5 seconds. It seems like you don't need the long delay, and the shorter delay will make Front O2 in sync with LC1WB and with the raw voltage sooner. The raw voltage from the wideband you will find as RawLC1WB. Whenever the raw voltage crosses over your "WB switch point" voltage, it should switch the Front O2 voltage (which will always be either 0.20 or 0.80 when you are simulating it). There are other places in that log where you can see this switch working normally, like at 66.8 seconds. It is switching at about 2.43 volts like it should.

Do you know how to show the raw values ? (like raw voltage)
I've been looking at the raw voltages for the wideband and for the MAP sensor. They are good to keep an eye on, especially at first.

ISCPosition is the other one you got turned on, and it looks like it's working. We'll know better after the car is running more like normal. The ISC is a really important thing, you've probably read about it. But since you don't have a FIAV anymore due to the aftermarket throttle body (right?) you super need to have a well-working ISC.
This is like my car (no FIAV and an aftermarket throttle body).

You should maybe take a look at my cold start video showing the gauges and the logger running. Since then I have leaned up my cranking fuel adjust settings quite a bit and leaned my basic idle VE a little bit, so my cold starts are slightly better now (they were a bit too rich at the time of the video). But still it's a good reality check for getting started with your setup which is similar to mine in a lot of ways. Read the whole Description field ("more") on the video while you are in there!

Thank you!! I appreciate all your input it means a ton! I'll continue to monitor raw values and double check my isc! I'll also lower that 15 timer! I'll also watch that cold start video! tha m you so much!! I'll upload more logs Saturday when the new map gets in!

 

[We're on Boost]

I think we should replace your Speed Density VE Table with something more realistic, because it will throw us off quite a bit to start out with it as it is.
Because of your cams and intake manifold, your engine is quite a bit different from stock, and different from other cars I've helped with. It's actually pretty similar to my own car. Even your turbo is about the same as mine.
So I think, maybe you should just start out with my VE Table.
It's really easy to just copy-paste an entire table out of one log and paste it into another log. You could do that from one of my logs into your log and then save it.
We could do that while you are waiting for the new MAP sensor to come if you want to or wait until after. Either way.
So let me know if you'd like to do that, and then I can post a log.

 

[Nii]

I think we should replace your Speed Density VE Table with something more realistic, because it will throw us off quite a bit to start out with it as it is.
Because of your cams and intake manifold, your engine is quite a bit different from stock, and different from other cars I've helped with. It's actually pretty similar to my own car. Even your turbo is about the same as mine.
So I think, maybe you should just start out with my VE Table.
It's really easy to just copy-paste an entire table out of one log and paste it into another log. You could do that from one of my logs into your log and then save it.
We could do that while you are waiting for the new MAP sensor to come if you want to or wait until after. Either way.
So let me know if you'd like to do that, and then I can post a log.

that sounds good! I'm still learning to tune so any help is amazing!

 

[We're on Boost]

Ok, here's a good log of mine.

Usually it's better to only change one thing at a time if it's something you can do that way.
So now maybe the question is which to do first - change the VE table or change the MAP sensor.
Well, my Speed Density VE numbers are mostly all higher numbers than what you have going at the moment.
So my table will make you run richer if you just plug it in without changing anything else (a bigger number in a VE cell will make that cell richer). And as near as I can tell, you are too rich already in a lot of what we can see (which isn't much!) so just plugging my table in right now would probably make you run even worse.

So I think the answer is to change the MAP sensor first. Then log a little bit of engine running. We can look at the log to see what difference the new MAP is making.
Then if that looks to be working right (sensible manifold vacuum numbers) then put in my VE table (if you want to).

As for what's in my log, it's a cold start with a long warmup before driving, then a bunch of driving, then at the end I'm sitting there just at hot idle for almost a minute before shutting down. I don't have AFRs logged unfortunately (crummy analog output on my wideband won't log). But my gauge works accurately which is why I've been lazy about changing the wideband.
When you look through the log, look at CombinedFT (combined fuel trim). That will be some number whenever it's in closed loop, and you want those numbers to be near 0. My numbers are almost all between -5 and +5 which is good. ECMlink has a nice tool that helps us adjust the VE map to dial that in - for closed loop only - "SD VE Adjust (Combined FT)".
In open loop you really need the wideband because we don't have fuel trims in open loop. And in your case, since you are simulating narrow band from the wideband, you need the wideband working right to even have correct closed loop and correct fuel trims.

My manifold pressure is log item "LinBoost".
You'll notice I'm running it at fairly low boost. Highest in the log is about 25 psi. That's on purpose, I want my engine to last like forever .
You'll also notice I don't even have an intake air temperature sensor. I'm doing speed density without that. Just the MAP sensor, and coolant temperature (CoolantTempFuelAdj in direct access)(and SDTempWeighting in direct access).
I'm using the flex fuel feature, which uses both min octane and max octane maps like for timing and AFR targets. It continuously interpolates between the min and max octane maps depending on my ethanol content which in this log is around 43%.

Besides the Speed Density table, you might also want to try my CrankingFuelAdj numbers (in ECU direct access) which are a lot lower than what's in there by default. Having extremely rich cold starts is really not good for the rings, because all that excess fuel washes down the cylinder walls, washes oil off the walls and the rings. So I try to avoid excess richness in the cold starts. But you gotta have whatever works for starting the darned thing!

 

[Nii]

Ok, here's a good log of mine.

Usually it's better to only change one thing at a time if it's something you can do that way.
So now maybe the question is which to do first - change the VE table or change the MAP sensor.
Well, my Speed Density VE numbers are mostly all higher numbers than what you have going at the moment.
So my table will make you run richer if you just plug it in without changing anything else (a bigger number in a VE cell will make that cell richer). And as near as I can tell, you are too rich already in a lot of what we can see (which isn't much!) so just plugging my table in right now would probably make you run even worse.

So I think the answer is to change the MAP sensor first. Then log a little bit of engine running. We can look at the log to see what difference the new MAP is making.
Then if that looks to be working right (sensible manifold vacuum numbers) then put in my VE table (if you want to).

As for what's in my log, it's a cold start with a long warmup before driving, then a bunch of driving, then at the end I'm sitting there just at hot idle for almost a minute before shutting down. I don't have AFRs logged unfortunately (crummy analog output on my wideband won't log). But my gauge works accurately which is why I've been lazy about changing the wideband.
When you look through the log, look at CombinedFT (combined fuel trim). That will be some number whenever it's in closed loop, and you want those numbers to be near 0. My numbers are almost all between -5 and +5 which is good. ECMlink has a nice tool that helps us adjust the VE map to dial that in - for closed loop only - "SD VE Adjust (Combined FT)".
In open loop you really need the wideband because we don't have fuel trims in open loop. And in your case, since you are simulating narrow band from the wideband, you need the wideband working right to even have correct closed loop and correct fuel trims.

My manifold pressure is log item "LinBoost".
You'll notice I'm running it at fairly low boost. Highest in the log is about 25 psi. That's on purpose, I want my engine to last like forever .
You'll also notice I don't even have an intake air temperature sensor. I'm doing speed density without that. Just the MAP sensor, and coolant temperature (CoolantTempFuelAdj in direct access)(and SDTempWeighting in direct access).
I'm using the flex fuel feature, which uses both min octane and max octane maps like for timing and AFR targets. It continuously interpolates between the min and max octane maps depending on my ethanol content which in this log is around 43%.

Besides the Speed Density table, you might also want to try my CrankingFuelAdj numbers (in ECU direct access) which are a lot lower than what's in there by default. Having extremely rich cold starts is really not good for the rings, because all that excess fuel washes down the cylinder walls, washes oil off the walls and the rings. So I try to avoid excess richness in the cold starts. But you gotta have whatever works for starting the darned thing!

thank you I appreciate your input! I do have flex aswell so it will be cool to see how you have it set up! I plan to make my min 91 and my max 85. we have a really good gas station here in Oklahoma that gives consistent 85! I'll take a look at you log and learn lots! I appreciate your help so much!!

 

[We're on Boost]

thank you I appreciate your input! I do have flex aswell so it will be cool to see how you have it set up! I plan to make my min 91 and my max 85. we have a really good gas station here in Oklahoma that gives consistent 85! I'll take a look at you log and learn lots! I appreciate your help so much!!

Awesome! I mean, having E85 and flex fuel. Even if the station gets E70 or something like that in the winter, it's no problem with a flex fuel setup.
Do you have a flex fuel sensor then?

Ok there's something that you should change right away and that is the ignition timing near idle. There are about 12 cells in the upper left-hand corner of the maps for TimingMaxOct and TimingMinOct where the timing should be a low number like 10 degrees. The rows would be LoadFactor 0.3 and 0.4, and the columns would be 750, 1000, 1250, 1500, 1750, and 2000 rpm. In both MinOct and MaxOct timing maps. Your idle will be a lot more stable if you have 10 degrees in all those cells. If you go into even a few more cells than that, you should have improved control of the throttle for times when you are just maneuvering around at like 2 mph in a gas station, parking lot, driveway, etc. There's really no power in those cells anyway. The power is all at higher load factors, and you'll be at higher load factors instantly as soon as you go into the throttle more than a few percent.

If you want, you could even copy and paste in my entire timing tables for MinOct and MaxOct. Although I think you should start out running the car on just 91 oct pump gas, and get the car sorted out like that. During the time when you are running just the single fuel and you don't have the ethanol sensor enabled, the ecu will only use the MaxOct map for timing. So if you paste in my timing maps, actually start out with just my MinOct map pasted into both the MaxOct and MinOct tables. Then replace the MaxOct table later after you've started using the flex fuel feature with the ethanol sensor turned on.

My MinOct timing map looks pretty dialed back, but it's not bad. The car made 500 whp (dynojet) on the base tune which was using 92 octane E10 and that MinOct timing map. I've never actually run the car on E10 myself but I've had it as low as E15 and it was ok. No knock phew. Well little bits of knock here and there can be ok. Often times these cars will throw a little bit of knock retard at you in the areas around 2800-3000 rpm and then again around 4000 rpm. If the LoadFactor is low, you can be pretty sure it's fake knock (it's some other engine noise). Somehow you have to know if your knock sensor is even working, and that is one way to tell.

 

[Nii]

Awesome! I mean, having E85 and flex fuel. Even if the station gets E70 or something like that in the winter, it's no problem with a flex fuel setup.
Do you have a flex fuel sensor then?

Ok there's something that you should change right away and that is the ignition timing near idle. There are about 12 cells in the upper left-hand corner of the maps for TimingMaxOct and TimingMinOct where the timing should be a low number like 10 degrees. The rows would be LoadFactor 0.3 and 0.4, and the columns would be 750, 1000, 1250, 1500, 1750, and 2000 rpm. In both MinOct and MaxOct timing maps. Your idle will be a lot more stable if you have 10 degrees in all those cells. If you go into even a few more cells than that, you should have improved control of the throttle for times when you are just maneuvering around at like 2 mph in a gas station, parking lot, driveway, etc. There's really no power in those cells anyway. The power is all at higher load factors, and you'll be at higher load factors instantly as soon as you go into the throttle more than a few percent.

If you want, you could even copy and paste in my entire timing tables for MinOct and MaxOct. Although I think you should start out running the car on just 91 oct pump gas, and get the car sorted out like that. During the time when you are running just the single fuel and you don't have the ethanol sensor enabled, the ecu will only use the MaxOct map for timing. So if you paste in my timing maps, actually start out with just my MinOct map pasted into both the MaxOct and MinOct tables. Then replace the MaxOct table later after you've started using the flex fuel feature with the ethanol sensor turned on.

My MinOct timing map looks pretty dialed back, but it's not bad. The car made 500 whp (dynojet) on the base tune which was using 92 octane E10 and that MinOct timing map. I've never actually run the car on E10 myself but I've had it as low as E15 and it was ok. No knock phew. Well little bits of knock here and there can be ok. Often times these cars will throw a little bit of knock retard at you in the areas around 2800-3000 rpm and then again around 4000 rpm. If the LoadFactor is low, you can be pretty sure it's fake knock (it's some other engine noise). Somehow you have to know if your knock sensor is even working, and that is one way to tell.

thank you! and yes I do have a flex fuel sensor it's wired up ready to go I just was wanting to get 91 dialed in and consistent to a degree before I start messing with e85 haha! 500 is great power and I'm not sure if I'll want to surpass that or not haha! my original goal was 650 but after riding in my friends 1g that was in the 400 range I thought that was more than enough but in the long run I'm happy with anything as long as she's running happy haha! I can't wait to start dialing in information. I've been dieing to go on my Maiden voyage but haven't gotten everything at 100 yet to feel confident in going farther than up my street thank you again I'm learning lots and I truly appreciate it!

 

[We're on Boost]

yes I do have a flex fuel sensor it's wired up ready to go I just was wanting to get 91 dialed in and consistent to a degree before I start messing with e85 haha!

Good, right.

500 is great power and I'm not sure if I'll want to surpass that or not haha! my original goal was 650 but after riding in my friends 1g that was in the 400 range I thought that was more than enough but in the long run I'm happy with anything as long as she's running happy haha!

Yes, you can keep the engine reasonably "safe" in that range around 500 to 550 whp when you have it built like yours is, and with some ethanol in the fuel to keep knock from happening, but the transmission is another matter. My stock rebuilt transmission broke 2nd gear when I was set for max of about 550 hp. I mean really it's an accumulation of fatigue over time, and at some point something breaks. In my case it broke just as the wastegate was starting to open during an acceleration, which means about 17 psi of boost (that's what my "crack pressure" is set to). So I know it wasn't like I all of a sudden exceeded some hard limit. It was time for it to go and it went.
I wasn't ever doing launches either. Normally I've only ever done pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear for high power stuff.

Using the boost controller function is one thing you won't be able to get from my log. But I can help you with that if you want. My car uses an external boost controller which I don't really think is the best way. It's best to use the boost controller in ECMlink together with an Ingersoll_Rand boost control solenoid valve which is a 3-port valve. It's the one recommended by ECMtuning as being the most compatible with our ecu. It should work fine with your wastegate.
Then on the Boost(WGS) tab in ECU config, you can set up the control of it.
There are some really useful features there like boost by gear, and the one that says "And then 100% below" which is like what people call "crack pressure".
The crack pressure feature is the simplest way to make boost come up as fast as possible but then still level off at some level like 25, 28, or whatever you want, assuming you don't always want 35 psi

 

[Nii]

Good, right.


Yes, you can keep the engine reasonably "safe" in that range around 500 to 550 whp when you have it built like yours is, and with some ethanol in the fuel to keep knock from happening, but the transmission is another matter. My stock rebuilt transmission broke 2nd gear when I was set for max of about 550 hp. I mean really it's an accumulation of fatigue over time, and at some point something breaks. In my case it broke just as the wastegate was starting to open during an acceleration, which means about 17 psi of boost (that's what my "crack pressure" is set to). So I know it wasn't like I all of a sudden exceeded some hard limit. It was time for it to go and it went.
I wasn't ever doing launches either. Normally I've only ever done pulls in 2nd and 3rd gear for high power stuff.

Using the boost controller function is one thing you won't be able to get from my log. But I can help you with that if you want. My car uses an external boost controller which I don't really think is the best way. It's best to use the boost controller in ECMlink together with an Ingersoll_Rand boost control solenoid valve which is a 3-port valve. It's the one recommended by ECMtuning as being the most compatible with our ecu. It should work fine with your wastegate.
Then on the Boost(WGS) tab in ECU config, you can set up the control of it.
There are some really useful features there like boost by gear, and the one that says "And then 100% below" which is like what people call "crack pressure".
The crack pressure feature is the simplest way to make boost come up as fast as possible but then still level off at some level like 25, 28, or whatever you want, assuming you don't always want 35 psi

definitely! I have a 3 port mac valve I have yet to wire into my harness but it's plumbed up to my wastegate bov and turbo I have 15 pound springs in both hopefully maxing out at 30psi when I have the controller going; max of 35 if I get some boost creep haha! I have a tre stage 3 that came off this 715hp 1g so hopefully it'll still have the wit to keep that reliability but it's a trans that was built years ago I got the map sensor in today so hopefully I'll be able to sneak out of work to get that installed and ready for tomorrow

 

[We're on Boost]

Ok that sounds awesome but we should check the electrical resistance of that MAC valve.
According to ECMtuning, if it is less than 28 ohms or thereabouts, you "run the risk of blowing the ECU's internal driver".
Got a multimeter?

 

[Nii]

Ok that sounds awesome but we should check the electrical resistance of that MAC valve.
According to ECMtuning, if it is less than 28 ohms or thereabouts, you "run the risk of blowing the ECU's internal driver".
Got a multimeter?

yes I do and I'll do that! thank you for letting me know!

 

[Nii]

Ok that sounds awesome but we should check the electrical resistance of that MAC valve.
According to ECMtuning, if it is less than 28 ohms or thereabouts, you "run the risk of blowing the ECU's internal driver".
Got a multimeter?

this is how I mounted the new map sensor and then that's how many ohms my boost controller reads

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[Nii]

i wonder if my base timing is off or something. i fixed up what i had to do mechanically. i put a new map. I checked my break booster line. when I've used a smoke leak tester it didn't show anything Im not sure what it is haha

 

[We're on Boost]

i wonder if my base timing is off or something. i fixed up what i had to do mechanically. i put a new map. I checked my break booster line. when I've used a smoke leak tester it didn't show anything Im not sure what it is haha

Well, you should definitely check the base timing with a timing light. You use that feature in the Misc tab that is called "Ground timing connector to ECU" while you are checking it.

It's disgusting that it's doing about the same thing it was doing before.
The MAP sensor is reading not much vacuum for the condition. Seems like air coming in uninvited.
Since the car is just sitting there, you aren't trying to drive it, you could take off the brake booster hose entirely and block off that inlet port to the manifold. Being careful to do it in a way that you can't accidentally get something sucked into the manifold. That should eliminate any doubts about the booster. The coolest way to do it would be with a vacuum gauge. That way the hose from the vacuum gauge would seal the port and the gauge would give you another opinion about what the actual vacuum is in there. See if it agrees with the in/Hg in the log. If there was enough hose on the gauge you could lay the gauge right on the windshield so you can see it while you are in there trying to fire the thing.

Another thing I notice is that every time it starts, it will run for a bit and then it dies off gradually right after the CrankingFuelAdjust runs out to 0. It's doing that over and over. That is kind of saying that it wants more fuel. And we've been thinking it's getting too much fuel. So maybe we are wrong about that. So you could try putting in my SpeedDensity VE map which gives it quite a bit more fuel in those cells that it is struggling with. It's pretty easy pasting in an entire map, so I'd try it.

Do you know what year car your ECU is from?
Do you know what year car your CAS if from?
Did you buy your LC2 wideband brand new from a real dealer, or is it used?

 

[Nii]

Do you know what year car your ECU is from?
Do you know what year car your CAS if from?
Did you buy your LC2 wideband brand new from a real dealer, or is it used?

Before we did first start we checked timing with a light and it was landing on the TDC mark on the timing cover so we thought that it was okay.

As for what year my ECU is off, I forgot but I can find that again and I think I have a silver top CAS on her currently not sure what year it's off. I can find that out.

I have adjustable cam gears I wonder if that's the issue. They are Skunk 2 cam gears. and I'll try blocking off my brake booster as well. I'll try your map and see what happens!

Thank you for all your help!

 

[steve]

I'm starting to wonder if there is a wiring or ECU problem here.

Before we did first start we checked timing with a light and it was landing on the TDC mark on the timing cover so we thought that it was okay.

It you grounded the timing check connector or activated the check box in the Misc tab in DSMLink, the correct landing should have been the 5° BTDC mark.

 

[Nii]

I'm starting to wonder if there is a wiring or ECU problem here.



It you grounded the timing check connector or activated the check box in the Misc tab in DSMLink, the correct landing should have been the 5° BTDC mark.

I'll double check the timing when I get home

 

[We're on Boost]

BTW I like your mounting bracket for the MAP sensor.
And the MAC valve resistance looks ok, barely, but should be ok, basically 28 ohms.

 

[We're on Boost]

If the last few ideas don't do it, then you should take some good sharp photos of the circuit board in the ecu. Steve and a couple other guys in here are really good at diagnosing the ecu from photos. (I'm lousy at it). Before you shoot, take a look at some photos that have worked out well for doing this in the past. This thread helping a guy in Sweden worked out pretty well. Look at posts #42, 46, 47, and 50. Look at them full size to see level of detail.

 

[Nii]

If the last few ideas don't do it, then you should take some good sharp photos of the circuit board in the ecu. Steve and a couple other guys in here are really good at diagnosing the ecu from photos. (I'm lousy at it). Before you shoot, take a look at some photos that have worked out well for doing this in the past. This thread helping a guy in Sweden worked out pretty well. Look at posts #42, 46, 47, and 50. Look at them full size to see level of detail.

thank you! I have a theory on why I have too much air! I've been using the throttle plate adjustment screw to get my idle dialed in instead of the biss so maybe I have the throttle plate open too much. I had they plate turned quite a bit so maybe that's it. I tried using the biss but never noticed a difference so I tried that and it made a difference

 

[We're on Boost]

I was thinking for some reason that you had an aftermarket throttle body on it. Is it a stock throttle body? If it's a stock one, is it one from an N/T car or is it from a turbo car? And what year or generation?
If we knew what throttle body you have, we could probably point you to the procedure for adjusting it.
All I know is it isn't supposed to be completely closed, and I know that you can buy a brand new OEM BISS screw if you need one, complete with o-ring.

I've been noticing a lot of times in your logs where the ThrottlePosition is like 2% or 1% and I wonder if that is because your foot is on the gas a little or if it is just something not real stable with the throttle.
When your ThrottlePos is 1%, your RawThrotPos is usually 35raw, which is high enough to make the ecu think you are not trying to idle. Up to 34raw is still "idle" as far as the ecu is concerned, but not over 34. Seems like the engine should still run though.

So now just lately you have adjusted the throttle plate to be a little more closed and the BISS is noticeably doing something?
Are the GM3Bar readings showing more vacuum with it like that?

 

[Nii]

I was thinking for some reason that you had an aftermarket throttle body on it. Is it a stock throttle body? If it's a stock one, is it one from an N/T car or is it from a turbo car? And what year or generation?
If we knew what throttle body you have, we could probably point you to the procedure for adjusting it.
All I know is it isn't supposed to be completely closed, and I know that you can buy a brand new OEM BISS screw if you need one, complete with o-ring.

I've been noticing a lot of times in your logs where the ThrottlePosition is like 2% or 1% and I wonder if that is because your foot is on the gas a little or if it is just something not real stable with the throttle.
When your ThrottlePos is 1%, your RawThrotPos is usually 35raw, which is high enough to make the ecu think you are not trying to idle. Up to 34raw is still "idle" as far as the ecu is concerned, but not over 34. Seems like the engine should still run though.

So now just lately you have adjusted the throttle plate to be a little more closed and the BISS is noticeably doing something?
Are the GM3Bar readings showing more vacuum with it like that?

I haven't had the opportunity to try and start it since I adjusted it but I have an s90 tb on it haha. I had the adjustment screw pretty turned in there. I know it's not supposed to be 100% closed but I'm also not sure how much I should have it open haha. also I have a vban air to water setup so I don't know if that would affect it or not.

as for the TPS reading 1-2% it keeps doing that and I'm not sure if it's my throttle cable sticking or something it keeps happening and this is the second TPS I've gone too. unless I'm giving it throttle to keep it alive my foot is normally off the petal or out of the car so I'm not sure.

thank y'all for all the help and ideas it means a lot!