1g handling, 400 dollars, what would you do?

[tstkl]

like the title says, I got 400 bucks for suspension and I have a completely stock setup with evo8 rims and some so-so 235/45 yokahomas or whatever. The front shocks on my car are completely shot and I found someone selling gr-2's for 130 for all four. I figured I could get those and some front and rear rmdsm sway bars and call it a day. I've been talking to some people and they say on a 1g awd dsm with the stock suspension, installing a front sway bar would only cause more understeer, so I want to know, what would be the best way to improve handling on my 1g?

I want to get a set of jic flt-a2's which is why I was thinking the gr-2s/sways (something to fix the current problem and something I can use even with the new suspension) but if its going to cause understeer, that will do more harm than help. Should I save my money, get the gr-2s, or what?

 

[weith1111]

gr-2s are like stock/stock replacements. I felt no difference. If you are looking for a performance increase don't get them. Do something else or save until you can afford koni's or tokico's or something else.

 

[Dream On]

I think the front sway bar is big enough as is. Just get a larger rear one.

 

[RedTalonTsi]

I am going to be biased because I have Eibach springs and KYB AGX's but I will still recommend them as the best daily driver, all around, suspension mods available FOR THE PRICE. I think either the Eibach Prokit or Sportlines springs with AGX's are suitable for 95% of the driving most people will do. Unless you seriously race or plan on racing your car this setup is fine. You will definately notice the difference and you will be able to adjust the shocks for various situations, whether drag racing, road racing, or daily driving. I haven't checked prices in a while but I think you be around the $400 mark.

 

[TurboB5]

im also around the 4-500 mark and was trying to get some suspension ideas...keep it coming guys

 

[Stealth 16]

i just put the eibach pro-kit and gr-2's on my car, and i really like it. Much better handling, but still a nice ride. The deal you are getting on the gr-2's is pretty good, and you could get the eibach's with that, and then upgrade to better shocks later. Yes, there are better shocks than the gr-2's, but you are getting all four for the price of like one koni, so i think that is a pretty good deal. To each their own.

 

[92awddsm]

I also suggest gr-2 and pro kit with only a rear sway bar. Just make sure you trim the bumpstops on struts so you dont have the harsh ride people that dont follow directions have. If you are still on the original suspension, the new gr-2's will make all the difference in handling because yours are more than likely wore out. And yes, the new front swaybar will increase understeer.

 

[jtmcinder]

I am a big proponent of doing mods once ... as in: get it right the first time and never have to remove an aftermarket part. So, I'd get the ST rear swaybay and put the rest in the bank. When you have enough for Konis, get them. If you insist on spending more money than the rear bar costs, get a front upper STB, motor mounts, and/or do some bushings.

Sorry if this is a typical, Jtoby, that doesn't-answer-my-effing-question post.

- Jtoby

 

[underradar92]

I rather agree with you JToby, most of the time, However he seems to be leaning towards the gr-2's as a stopgap with stock springs, to restore the ride 'till the cash comes along for the JIC's he mentioned. That to me seems like a rational idea, since no one likes to roll undamped. My .02

 

[jtmcinder]

I'll bet if he asks around, someone has a set of fronts for a 1G laying around, maybe even GR-2s. He's got enough posts to put up a wanted ad, right? (And why are we talking about him in the third person, as if he weren't even 'here'?)

- Jtoby

 

[pneumo]

For a cheap and effective improvement, I reccomend eccentric camber bolts for the front end to get some negative camber, and custom alignment for the back end to reduce negative camber, then set the toe to zero all around.

 

[tstkl]

For a cheap and effective improvement, I reccomend eccentric camber bolts for the front end to get some negative camber, and custom alignment for the back end to reduce negative camber, then set the toe to zero all around.

too bad our cars have that toe-in thing where when your turning hard it automatically pulls the rear wheels in or whatever.

the front shocks are completely, 100% blown, the car bounces 2-3 times before it stops moving when I push down on the nose.

I have motor mounts, I had to do that because my motor was flopping around and on hard launches it would rip my j pipe out of my licp.

So right now Im thinking rear sway bar and shocks, and maybe a bushings kit. (I really like the cheap stuff that helps very little, but takes hours to install, gives me something to do)

jtoby, why do you say the ST rear sway bar opposed to the rm racing rear sway bar? I haven't done much research on them, but I've read that the rm racing is the only one that works flawlessly with 3 inch exhaust systems. If the ST is better I'll go with that though.

edit: also forgot to mention a good friend just called me up today and told me that he ordered some brake parts for his car and they sent him the wrong stuff, and when he asked for a shipping label they told him to just keep it. He said its dsm stuff and I can try it out and he will sell it to me for really cheap, so we'll see how that goes. I think he said it was brakepads, racing brake fluid, ss brake lines, and some new rotors. I can't believe they gave them to him for free, but whatever, their loss is my gain, I'm going to call him monday and arrange to pick them up then, but he said I can try to install them on my car first and if they work, pay him later. Pretty sweet deal imo.

 

[pneumo]

too bad our cars have that toe-in thing where when your turning hard it automatically pulls the rear wheels in or whatever.

The 1G AWD comes from the factory with 3mm toe in, then the pivot toes it in more. Yes, it's bad for cornering, so adjusting the static toe keeps the rear wheels straighter.

 

[Dream On]

edit: also forgot to mention a good friend just called me up today and told me that he ordered some break parts for his car and they sent him the wrong stuff, and when he asked for a shipping label they told him to just keep it. He said its dsm stuff and I can try it out and he will sell it to me for really cheap, so we'll see how that goes. I think he said it was breakpads, racing break fluid, ss break lines, and some new rotors. I can't believe they gave them to him for free, but whatever, their loss is my gain, I'm going to call him monday and arrange to pick them up then, but he said I can try to install them on my car first and if they work, pay him later. Pretty sweet deal imo.

Break ≠ brake. Sorry, that's always gotten to me.

 

[tstkl]

wow, I know I spell it break from time to time, but I didn't realize I did it that much, sorry, I will edit it.

 

[Bohrn]

I second the camber bolts. They work great! going from roughly 1 deg positive camber up front to 1 deg negative is HUGE!!

I suggest you get a set of ST springs, a better rear swaybar, a rear strut tower brace, some working shocks and those camber bolts. If you get some of the hard parts uses(rear sway bar, rear stb, springs) you can do this for your budget. After the alignment and with the good parts in place, your car will be completely different and in a great way. Also, you may be able to find a set of Prothane or other aftermarket stiff sway bar bushings for cheap. At least for the rear one, then you only have to do it once.

PS, make SURE you tell the alignment guys you WANT that negative camber, tell them to adjust the toe and center your steering wheel, but leave your camber the way you set it, all the way negative.

To do this, when the bolts are in, put a lug nut on to hold the brake rotor in place, snug up the lower stock bolt so it can still move but its not floppy, then get the camber bolt close to tight as well, but still quite movable.

Then put a large screwdrver into the vents of the rotor so you can exert lots of pressure in the negative camber direction(top inwards). While you push the top of the rotor in, move the camber eccentric so that you get the most negative camber that you can. When you figure out where, get an assistant to either hold the screwdriver for you (pushing hard) or tighen the two bolts while you hold it. Make sure you keep that pressure inwards until you are sure the bolts are tight.

best of luck and happy cheap speed

 

[PieEyedPiper]

My suggestion is would be just concentrate on shocks. Skip the AGX's, HP's and GR-2's.
Your struts are blown and you need replacements.

Since you only have 400 bones, I would buy a pair of Koni Sport fronts. This will make a dramatic difference in handling and driving, since your nose won't be bobbing like an apple anymore.

I realize your rears still need replacing, and you need springs and possibley mounts/bushings and sways. But all those things are secondary when your current struts are blown.

If I was in your shoes, I would buy 2 front Koni Sports (~$340), and Tanabe GF210 springs for $157 shipped ( I think).
Then begins the saving for your rears, sways, strut bars, bushings and mounts.
More or less sin that order.

Let us know what you choose to do.

 

[tstkl]

I think Im going to just save up and get what I originally wanted from the beginning. The jic flta-2s

I got those gr-2's for 120, and I haven't been able to get ahold of that guy who called me about the brake parts, so I dunno whats going on there. But for now, I'll have 410 when my friend gets back from south dakota. I bought some stuff for him, and hes going to pay me back + some extra, so then I'll probably just dump it all in the bank, and save up. Either that or I'll go with the brake stuff and the sway bars...

 

[PieEyedPiper]

I didnt realize they were 4 for 120, that definitely a great deal to hold you over till you get your "prize", good goin

 

[GVR4592]

I am a big proponent of doing mods once ... as in: get it right the first time and never have to remove an aftermarket part. So, I'd get the ST rear swaybay and put the rest in the bank. When you have enough for Konis, get them. If you insist on spending more money than the rear bar costs, get a front upper STB, motor mounts, and/or do some bushings.

Sorry if this is a typical, Jtoby, that doesn't-answer-my-effing-question post.

- Jtoby

I agree with this completely. What is the point of wasting money on a part just take it off. Save the money or buy some of the little stuff. Poly suspension busings made a noticeable difference on my car, and they were only $120.

 

[tstkl]

I found them for 130 off diamondstarmotorsport.com for 130, but where did you find them for 120?

I was thinking if I got the front and rear sway bar kit from RM, it would come with the bushings for that and then all the other bushings I would need would be less expensive.

I know it induces understeer, but couldn't I correct that with my toe/camber and a rear strut tower bar?

I think that would be about 400, the RM and the strut tower bar.

I know the chance that someone has tried out both sway bars on the same setup is very unlikely, but what are the differences between the ST sway bars and the RM sway bars besides the price?

 

[pneumo]

I agree with this completely. What is the point of wasting money on a part just take it off. Save the money or buy some of the little stuff.

I usually agree with this, but you guys are missing another piece of the puzzle in this case: his car is unsafe with the stock, blown shocks. tstkl came over last week to pick up an eprom chip and I got to witness firsthand how bad the shocks were. He's not heavy, and all he did was push on the front fender and the whole front end bobbed up and down like a teacup in a tempest. I counted 4 major oscillations from a mild push.

So what would you do? Buy good shocks for $120 or drive with blown shocks for another 6 months and hope nothing else eats into the suspension fund?

 

[unlmtdndeavor]

i sold him the shocks cheap ### he needed them. i agree with pneumo, he definately needed them.

 

[tstkl]

Those gr-2's made such a huge difference, I decided to deposit the money and sit on it until I have enough to do something really fun,... or if something breaks....

plus, now that summer schools over and I'm done with all those pole vaulting camps, I'm working again (I didn't quit, I was just getting 6 or so hours a paycheck, and today I put in 6.5 hours, so my next paycheck should be better....)

I wish I could sue my summer school teacher. I had him for English 3 last year and he gave me a C, and I deserved a C, so I got a C, but he hated me, and I was surprised he gave me a C. Either way, I wanted to take English 4 over the summer to avoid getting him, and he ends up being my summer school teacher, but I said hell, 6 weeks is better than 9 months, and I know how this guy works, so I can get an A. I got an A on every test, do all my shit, got better grades than everyone else in the class. What does he give me? a C. Why do all teachers hate me? I could get every point available and I'd probably still get a C. I talked to him about my grade sooooo much and made sure there was no possible way I would get less than a B, but nnooooooooooooooooooooooooo.....

anyways, if you can sue teachers, let me know, and I'll have money for my suspension the day after the court date.

(that would be so dick, since teachers don't get paid much)

 

[PieEyedPiper]

That is outrageous.
take it straight to the administration. Seriously we're in college now, this shit counts. don't let some asshole teacher #### you around, go to the administration with your concerns and get that GPA up!

But congrats on the better ride!

Those gr-2's made such a huge difference, I decided to deposit the money and sit on it until I have enough to do something really fun,... or if something breaks....

plus, now that summer schools over and I'm done with all those pole vaulting camps, I'm working again (I didn't quit, I was just getting 6 or so hours a paycheck, and today I put in 6.5 hours, so my next paycheck should be better....)

I wish I could sue my summer school teacher. I had him for English 3 last year and he gave me a C, and I deserved a C, so I got a C, but he hated me, and I was surprised he gave me a C. Either way, I wanted to take English 4 over the summer to avoid getting him, and he ends up being my summer school teacher, but I said hell, 6 weeks is better than 9 months, and I know how this guy works, so I can get an A. I got an A on every test, do all my shit, got better grades than everyone else in the class. What does he give me? a C. Why do all teachers hate me? I could get every point available and I'd probably still get a C. I talked to him about my grade sooooo much and made sure there was no possible way I would get less than a B, but nnooooooooooooooooooooooooo.....

anyways, if you can sue teachers, let me know, and I'll have money for my suspension the day after the court date.

(that would be so dick, since teachers don't get paid much)