1g conneting rods in a 2g

[south_ga_import]

i'm trying to use a set of 1g JDM rods with my 2g wiseco pistons. i've had the wrist pin holes machined already, but when i tried to bolt to the crank, it was a no go. the 1g's are bigger than the slots in the 7bolt crank. can i have these machined, and if so, how much on each side? i could really use some help on this subject. also, i have 2g rod bearings, will this be a problem in the long run? or would this be fine?

 

[SBR Joe]

Don't even bother. The machine cost to have the pins fit and the bearing end fit will definitely be more than the cost of a set of H beam rods. Just get a set of Manley's for the 7 bolt and call it a day. PM me for a price if you're interested.

 

[dsm-onster]

Definately not trying to kill a potential sale here but I got them machined for my brothers 2g for around $200 Pressed the 2g pistons on for another $40. 600whp setup for $250. Although manleys are GREAT pieces.

If you're REALLY wanting to go cheap you just get a 6bolt-rod/stock-1g-piston combo used and not use the 2g pistons. Will make pumpgas tuning a little easier for a loss in about 6% thermal efficiency with the lower CR. You'll need slightly more boost to make the same power but you can get away with more boost to make that same power. You'll be only paying a machine shop for narrowing and opening up the bore on the big end.

 

[south_ga_import]

the thing is, i already have the connecting rods ready. it cost me $40 and i'm doing the floating setup with the wiseco pistons. i already have all of this stuff is why i'm asking, and we have a good machine shop to do the work fairly cheap. i just want to research so i know what to go in and tell them to do exactly. i already know i could probably buy new rods and everything for what my final cost will probably be, but i've already started this build, and i am SERIOUSLY running out of time to get done with this car. so please spare me if your going to tell me to buy new rods or anything, i understand your p.o.v and thank you for your help and interest, but right now, i really need to know what i should be looking to have both sides of the crank end of the rod machined to. and if it's even a reality, and if it will actually hold up as the above post says. thanks very much.

 

[SBR Joe]

Definately not trying to kill a potential sale here but I got them machined for my brothers 2g for around $200 Pressed the 2g pistons on for another $40. 600whp setup for $250. Although manleys are GREAT pieces.

If you're REALLY wanting to go cheap you just get a 6bolt-rod/stock-1g-piston combo used and not use the 2g pistons. Will make pumpgas tuning a little easier for a loss in about 6% thermal efficiency with the lower CR. You'll need slightly more boost to make the same power but you can get away with more boost to make that same power. You'll be only paying a machine shop for narrowing and opening up the bore on the big end.

HAHA no sweat...i honestly assumed it would be more than that. But the question is, how much does he trust the machine shop to do it yknow? It can be done...id just be skeptical about whos doing the work.

I could get the rods to him for another 50 and thats including shipping. For that little price difference i find it worth not having to deal with all the hassle.

 

[jrohner]

+1 on new aftermarket rods. Why do you make it sound like you don't have time to get new rods? It all depends on who's faster, your machine shop or UPS/FedEx.

 

[dsm-onster]

I didn't know that you had the wisecos ready. I thought that you had your 2g pistons. I was really suggesting just machine the big end of used 6bolt rods/pistons and skipping the cost it would take to put the 2g pistons onto the 6bolt rods. THAT would be the cheapest. But since you already have the wisecos. . .

HAHA no sweat...i honestly assumed it would be more than that. But the question is, how much does he trust the machine shop to do it yknow? It can be done...id just be skeptical about whos doing the work.

I could get the rods to him for another 50 and thats including shipping. For that little price difference i find it worth not having to deal with all the hassle.

^^^^Being that the OP has a time limit more than a REALLY tight budget: Just throw some hbeam rods on there for about 50 more. You won't have to worry about the cost to press in the piston pins in since it will be a floating setup.

You'll save weight on the rotating assembly too.

. . .I see in the first post that you have 2g wiseco pistons. Just buy the hbeam aftermarket rods. . . . I GUARANTEE it will take the same amount of time to drop ship them to your door. Floating pin means no press. Just put them in and go. If you were jsut starting and didn't have e floating wisecos, I ould suggest just accepting the lower compression and running machined 6bolt rods with their stock 1g pistons, but you HAVE to machine the big end.

 

[SBR Joe]

OP we have the Manley h beams in stock ready to ship. Ill hook you up for 305 shipped. Let me know buddy.

 

[force_feed]

^^ Awesome price! I perfer Manley H-Beams over Eagle

 

[south_ga_import]

the thing is i can get all 4 rods done for $100. i already have the pistons connected to the rods, and i understand that the floating setup means no press. the thing is i can drop the rods off in the morning, and pick them up that afternoon and drop off $100, if i just knew exactly how much i needed shaved off. and i trust this shop, they've done really great custom work for me, and warranty it if they were to mess up. i have a time limit because i am driving my sister's car, the eclipse will be the daily driver, and my sister's got her car sold, which means i have no transportation, so 1 day sounds ALOT better than 6+ days with the way our ground service runs. so please, just help me with the question if anyone knows, how much do i need to shave on the face and rear of the crank side of the connecting rod to make them work and not mess up? not trying to sound like a douche, but i'm a married working man with a working wife, and i can't afford to be stranded. i can have this engine built in less than a week, in the car and running if someone could just please help me. i have 2 broke down vehicles and if i can get this one done, then i could finish the other 4 my wife.

 

[dsm-onster]

You only need the specs in this pic for the big end to do what you want done. . .

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. . . To answer your bearing question: You will HAVE to use 2g rod bearings. All the time from now on. This mod makes 2g or 1g 7bolt rod bearings work on a 7bolt 1g or 2g crank.

 

[south_ga_import]

well i've had the wrist pin end fitted for the 2g pistons already, BUT, is it saying that the crankshaft end is to be bored open to 1.8897 to 1.8905 48mm OR is it talking about the face? because the front and back is what i need to know how far to narrow.

 

[donniekak]

The bore on all rods should be the same. Where are your old 7-bolt rods? Just have the machine shop measure one for refrence, and make the 6-bolt big ends the same width.
I just measured one at 26.4mm. I believe they are supposed to be 26.36mm. Go to the eagle, or whatever aftermarket rod maker and look up the width of a 7-bolt rod.

 

[dsm-onster]

The bore IS slightly different. That is what the pic from Pauter Rods is saying.