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General 1g cam angle sensor on FuelTech

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We use it with both a 12-1 Kiggly wheel and a modified 1g sensor with the Yoshifab trigger disc. The Yoshifab disc car runs the car sequentially with just the disc.

I highly recommend you run the Kiggly setup if you want to run sequentially and have true clarity. There is a difference.

However, you can run the stock cam angle sensor as semi sequential and water spark just fine though.
 
I would not run any stand alone with a stock cas. They do not deal with the timing scatter and the low resolution cas well.
In the process of getting my 2G with black top CAS running on a Haltech Elite. What do I need to look out for? Timing sync errors or actual misfires?
 
@biglady112 Did you mean wasted spark?
Yes. Stupid phone.

I would not run any stand alone with a stock cas. They do not deal with the timing scatter and the low resolution cas well.
I agree. That is why I said I highly recommend a crank and cam pickup.

Our big boy FuelTech DSM car runs that. As is one I am putting together for another friend right now.
 
Yes it can work but only on waste spark as stated above. It's far from ideal. If you're dumping the money on the FT, go the extra distance for the Kiggly 12-1 crank sensor.
 
I'm trying to Run sequential ignition FT550 with the kiggly 12-1 and single tooth signal 1G CAS Having Rpm but trigger errors:
*Gap detected at the wrong spot.
*Missed tooth reading.
No spark during Cranking wondering if using this 1G CAS was a Mistake
 
I'm trying to Run sequential ignition FT550 with the kiggly 12-1 and single tooth signal 1G CAS Having Rpm but trigger errors:
*Gap detected at the wrong spot.
*Missed tooth reading.
No spark during Cranking wondering if using this 1G CAS was a Mistake
The 2GB cam sensor is the better option with the 12-1, however if you taped up the other holes in the disk, the 1g cas should work.

FT throws up errors like this very often if there isn't enough battery voltage while cranking.
 
I did a experiment today I put another 1g CAS since the other one I already cut the tooth for the sequential ignition, then move the RPM input (red wire pin 19) to the crank signal in the CAS switch to waste spark and the car starts now. (tears of happiness) But yeah I gonna try to find a 2gb Cam setup and try again with Sequential. At least I can remove the jack stands for now LOL. Thank you
 
What index Angle are you using for the crank ? I tried 105 ,75 but no luck it reads rpm but having a bunch of crank errors
 
I'm trying to Run sequential ignition FT550 with the kiggly 12-1 and single tooth signal 1G CAS Having Rpm but trigger errors:
*Gap detected at the wrong spot.
*Missed tooth reading.
No spark during Cranking wondering if using this 1G CAS was a Mistake
Like Jason stated, you have to tape all of the other holes off. We used aluminum tape. I have done it to three cars now, all with FuelTech and all work incredibly well.

You cover the four injector holes and the larger “crank” hole in the stock trigger disc. Pretty easy stuff here.
 
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Like Jason stated, you have to tape all of the other holes off. We used aluminum tape. I have done it to three cars now, all with FuelTech and all work incredibly well.

You cover the four injector holes and the larger “crank” hole in the stock trigger disc. Pretty easy stuff here.
I don't have the optical CAS I have the chopper wheel type I already cut the larger Part A least That's what Kiggly Racing Recommends I just cant get it to Sync and got no spark I switch it to waste park with other CAS(OEM no cutting or covering) and Run no problems.

I think that depends on where the missing tooth is
Oh sorry thought you got the precut one
 
Oh sorry thought you got the precut one
You need to go to the diagnostics panel and see if you are getting both signals. It sounds like your index angles are way off. There are plenty of threads showing how to do so on the Facebook group. As well as ways to use that panel go get your actual starting angles.
 
i cut one tooth off 97 2g cam sensor....cut 1 tooth off kiggly cas...Cam sensor only used for start up...
 
Yes it can work but only on waste spark as stated above. It's far from ideal. If you're dumping the money on the FT, go the extra distance for the Kiggly 12-1 crank sensor.
I have a black top cas on my car without kiggly 12-1 (will be getting that soon) do you have to modify the black top to work with the fueltech ecu? I’m currently trying to start my car on a ft450 and I’m also getting crank trigger errors
 
I have a black top cas on my car without kiggly 12-1 (will be getting that soon) do you have to modify the black top to work with the fueltech ecu? I’m currently trying to start my car on a ft450 and I’m also getting crank trigger errors
From my understanding the black top does not work properly. You'd need the green top with either the stock wheel for wasted spark or the 12 tooth wheel to run sequential.
 
Like Jason stated, you have to tape all of the other holes off. We used aluminum tape. I have done it to three cars now, all with FuelTech and all work incredibly well.

You cover the four injector holes and the larger “crank” hole in the stock trigger

From my understanding the black top does not work properly. You'd need the green top with either the stock wheel for wasted spark or the 12 tooth wheel to run sequential.
Okay I managed to get the car to start today using a green top I had laying around covering the bigger hole on the wheel but are the injector holes supposed to be covered as well? Because the car won’t run on its own just falls on its face
 
Okay I managed to get the car to start today using a green top I had laying around covering the bigger hole on the wheel but are the injector holes supposed to be covered as well? Because the car won’t run on its own just falls on its face
Usually taping off the holes is done in conjunction with the Kingly crank trigger use.

Lots of things could be off considering you just got it running, the timing settings, base timing etc. You really should just get the 12-1 crank sensor and go from there otherwise you're just making yourself double to work by doing it later on.
 
Usually taping off the holes is done in conjunction with the Kingly crank trigger use.

Lots of things could be off considering you just got it running, the timing settings, base timing etc. You really should just get the 12-1 crank sensor and go from there otherwise you're just making yourself double to work by doing it later on.
yeah your right might aswell just go the distance looks like I’ll be tearing her back apart thank you very much for your help i appreciate it!!
 
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