1G Bov Mod????

[Smokin80]

Im running 22-23psi on my S16G and the bov leaks a bit. I read the 1g bov mod on the vfaq. It says if you connect the "nipple" youve created to a boost soruce the bov will return to quick opening....as in it will open just like stock?? If it doesnt open like stock with this mod then what does it do. Has anyone done this mod and if so how does it work. Id like to do this mod but if it isnt going to open well and cause turbo issues than it doesnt seem like a real good idea.

Im thinking my bov is blowing open anything above 20psi because if i set the boost controller higher it will spike as much as 26-28psi and then fall to 22-23. Dsmlink reports more air being flowed but i see no increase in power. Flowing around 33lbs at 20psi and if i set it to spike and fall to 22-23 i have seen as much as 37lbs but doesn not pull any harder. So i figure the bov is just leaking off the extra airflow and then some...almost seems slower at that boost even though the timing and afr is still the same and there is no knock.

Thanks for any help
sorry so long
smokin

 

[DSMunknown]

Im running 22-23psi on my S16G and the bov leaks a bit. I read the 1g bov mod on the vfaq. It says if you connect the "nipple" youve created to a boost soruce the bov will return to quick opening....as in it will open just like stock?? If it doesnt open like stock with this mod then what does it do. Has anyone done this mod and if so how does it work. Id like to do this mod but if it isnt going to open well and cause turbo issues than it doesnt seem like a real good idea.

When is it leaking? At idle? Or when boosting to 22-23psi? The uncrushed 1G will leak a little bit at idle, that's normal. Ask andymoraitis how his uncrushed 1G BOV reacted to 22psi. He will tell you it held, and that when he decided to crush his 1G BOV, it held to 26psi.


Just so we're on the same page, the below link is the one you refered to, correct?:

http://www.thedodgegarage.com/turbo_bov_mod.html

The new port you just added MUST be hooked to the turbo's outlet barb or somewhere in the intercooling tubing for the BOV to work correctly in fast release mode.

I don't see this modification as being necessary. You might as well save yourself the hassle, headache, and frustration and leave the 1G BOV alone (other than properly crushing it, of course).

 

[Smokin80]

Yeah that is the one im talking about.

My bov is crushed and when i do a boost leak test it leaks a bit at about 20-22psi. The boost will hold at 15psi for quite awhile but when i go up to 20psi the TB shaft seals leak a bit and of course the bov to like i said.

Thanks for the quick reply

 

[Kevin Jewer]

The "Gus Mod" is an awesome one. It's been around longer than I have been, and that's almost 7 years now. I had one on my 2g, and now have one on my EVO. I don't bother with the solenoids and switching it over automatically anymore, I just pull the Gus line at the track, and put it back on when I leave. I don't try to make a ton of power on the street with the stock EVO turbo... If you do go with automatic control, I HIGHLY recomend throttle position based control, not boost pressure, especially on smaller faster spooling turbos. A simple microswitch on the throttle works great. Use it to activate your 3 port solenoid that switches the Gus port back and forth between atmosphere (no leak) and pre TB boost (fast release/stock).

Additionally, I've found with some experimentation that the Gus mod can be done all with NPT fittings, but you have to be very careful, and a little creative. Even 1/16th NPT is almost too big for the space you have to work with. But I'm glad I put in the time and trials and went this route on the BOV on the EVO. Much cleaner modification, if that matters to you. It works just fine doing it any number of other ways I've seen.

Edit> How could I forget. DSMlink's nitrous controls do a fantastic job of controlling a Gus Modded BOV. I set it up to effectively use TPS only.

 

[Smokin80]

Awesome...that was the post i was looking for. I have dsmlink so i could control the solenoid with the nitrous controls. So the bov still opens when it is open to atmosphere right???just kinda slow or what. That shouldnt affect me much because i use NLTS when im rippin on it anyway.

Thanks

 

[Kevin Jewer]

When you are in the fast release mode it works identically to stock. When you are in Gus mode, the BOV will open way too late, and not very willingly. I would not drive the car in this condition. But as you pointed out, your not supposed to lift the throttle at the track anyway If you use the nitrous controls in conjunction with a 3 port solenoid (stock boost control solenoid works IIRC, if you lost yours you can usually get them for free from another DSMer that doesn't use it) you will get the best of both worlds. Gus mode at WOT, and stock or fast release mode as soon as you lift. It should be pretty seamless using TPS based control and act just like a stock valve, except that it will hold a lot more boost before leaking.

With DSMlink, the pin the actuates the solenoid is pulled to ground, so run the ground wire of the solenoid's coil to that pin, and put 12 volts on the other side. There are decent instructions on the DSMlink site if you can find them.

 

[Smokin80]

Actually from what i read on dsmlink forums you use the stock fuel pressure solenoid. No rewireing at all just a boost source to the solenoid and then to the gus port on the bov. This way it will hold high boost when ever the throttle is at wot. Even better part about this is that whenever the clutch is in the bov will act like stock too so it will even release fast on full throttle shifts. Which is really good cause then you get a no leak bov ONLY when you are at wot with the clutch out. AWESOME


Thanks a lot for your help you really got me pointed in the right direction.

Smokin

 

[Smokin80]

I did exactley what we were talking about above. 1G gus modded bov and use the FPS with dsmlink's nitrous controls. Works like a charm. Drive around town like nothing is any different but when i go wot it holds perfect. My afr's dropped from 11.3 to 11.6 so obviously that was a pretty good leak. I adjusted the tune to shoot for 11.1 afr and now i bounce around 11.2-11.1 from 4500 on up....perfect. And the bov sounds much sharper and louder...kinda cool.

Thanks for the help guys.

Smokin

 

[Kevin Jewer]

Awesome! It's nice when peole post back after putting down the keyboard and actually trying something. Glad it worked out so well.

 

[2gGSX]

Sorry to bring this thread back to life, but I was wondering if you could clarify how you wired up the input (port 3). You said you put it to the FPS but on the thread Thomas was saying to feed it into the A port on the TB.

Also, what settings are you using in the nitrous controls for this? I had it come on above 5 mph, above 4000 RPM and 85% throttle below 4* knock retard. Something went drastically wrong with this and my timing shot down to 8* advance.