1G 1g Automatic transmission mods to handle 800WHP?

[zippy22]

Hey guys I’m planning on running 800 whp. What all do I need to do to get my transmission to handle that type of power?

I don’t think I will be doing super hard launches but I now I have a forced 4 shift box so my line pressure should be good. You need to know about all the other stuff. It is an AWD I'm planning on welding the center diff in case my output shaft turns into a circle and I’ve hear about the transfer case problems too. What all do I need to get and put in to handle 800.

 

[tschuhly]

Twicks69 is the universally recognized transmission expert for the DSM community? I would maybe suggest reaching out directly to his account. I believe this is also his company if you'd like to try through here.

Home

www.tmzperformance.com

 

[zippy22]

I could try contacting them but it looks like they stopped doing the auto in 2022 I could see what they say about it

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

@twicks69 , can you be of assistance for guidance? Thanks

 

[twicks69]

So your W4A33 is completely stock currently with just a shift box?? This is a 1g non lockup trans? What torque converter are you using? What other drivetrain mods are already completed?

Well, what power levels are you currently at? What engine management are you using? 800awhp on an auto is easy 8 second passes and 155+mph, so if you think you are going to street drive this, you better have the rest of the car properly prepared with extremely stout braking, solid suspension components and all bushings, upgraded front and rear axles, billet rear diff cover, built transfer case with billet transfer case brace at a minimum and realistically a 25 spline 300m output shaft modification with an upgraded driveshaft.

I wouldn't expect any of your stock components to last long. You will want a shop that has experience specifically with DSM high power autos, I would recommend Darren Thomas Racing. You can find him on Facebook, or email at: [email protected]

For parts, expect some sort of upgraded torque convertor, Kiggly SFI flex plate, Kiggly billet front clutch assembly or at least a Kiggly 5 friction front clutch assembly in the OEM basket, a PROPERLY welded center diff with care to the heating up and cooling down process. Then the valve body would use a Translab shift kit, max out the pressures on the valve body, ideally a higher capacity oil pan, a very large transmission cooler ideally with a serviceable high flow pre-filter before the cooler inlet. I would use Alto / Red Eagle friction / steel kits with a complete rebuild, and replace the reverse sun shell and kick down band while it's torn down.

Do not do any load pulls ever in 4th as it will snap the splined end of the input shaft at the end clutch assembly.

Use John Deere Hy-Gard, regular viscosity. Nothing else.

With these types of builds, please please please put a lot of money and effort into safety, suspension, braking and cage work. I still strongly recommend going to the track to play around with the car on full power as it is a closed environment with safety personnel onsite if there is a problem.

Good luck!

 

[zippy22]

I think before was running like 400 ish never got numbers but I’m planing on at least 650 and want to go to 800 and everything is ready it will just be changed by boost controller my car runs of of VE with ECMLink. I have a Kiggly flex plate and that’s about it so far. Cars not done and it’s got 2g brakes on the front drilled and slotted.

If you could give me a full list for suspension and stuff I found axles and I’m looking to get BC coilovers. 800 will most likely be tops for a while I think I’ll be around 400 to 500 when street driving but I wanna get the transmission ready before the car is done cars it would be easier to do everything else over pulling the transmission.

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

Good luck! It takes A LOT to get to 800.
This is just a calculated number, but its the most I have seen. My build is pretty healthy and $$$. Again though, this is just a #. The car is a handful to drive, I can say that.

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[twicks69]

2g brakes aren't anything special, if you are running drilled / slotted rotors, I would be on like an EBC Yellow front pad / Red rear pad combination if both are converted. Otherwise I would be looking at 12.2" x 0.81" or 13" x 1.10" front rotors with a 6 piston Wilwood caliper and BP-20 pads brake kit, and either a 11.75" x 0.81" or 12.2" x 0.81" rotor 4 piston rear setup with FSL or BSL calipers. Do not go with a thin 0.320" rear rotor.

If I recall www.tceperformanceproducts.com or STM or Magnus may have kits. You do not need TBM (Brake Man) drag kits. You need heavy duty STREET kits, or you are going to have to build them.

 

[zippy22]

I’ve actually been looking into wilwood for breaks and now that I know for a fact I will get in contact with them

 

[zippy22]

Can someone help me find this Alto / Red Eagle friction / steel kits with a complete rebuild and put the link down cause I can’t find it and I’m probably gonna get a kiggly front 6 if that will work for a bit

Cause it probably won’t be at 800 till I get a set of axles and everything else I need for 800

 

[1990TSIAWDTALON]

I have a thread about the 5 pak Kiggly front clutch but nothing on the 6, sorry. The most important thing is GET THE CLEARANCES RIGHT and air check it. I didn't get mine right and totally screwed up the front basket. It almost welded itself as 1 big hunk of junk. Just a tip is all. Best of luck in the goal!
Here is the best place that I trust ------
Mitsubishi DSM Transmission Rebuild Kit https://share.google/lXQ6sdDIBCeAzuwru
Also, if you can get ahold of him, there is DTR. IDT he has a particular website, but is a member here. He has a good handle on the DSM automatics but is a very busy person.