1g 6bolt 400-600 horse build

[1995gsxawd]

Ive been out of the dsm ring for awhile and im just now getting back into it. I went and bought one of the new dodge challengers and love it. BUT I still feel there is nothing like a DSM. I have a 1g DSM with a 6 bolt and i want to try and put down 500-600 but would settle for 400-500 depending on the prices I am wanting a street legal beast. It may be daily driven but i think it will mostly be a weekend getaway car. I have been out for awhile and i searched this site for about 3 hours and havent really found a build that has followed through with what the first post questioned. I am in no hurry to build it and it will take a few months to save up about 4 or 5 grand. I know some of the basics. I want to run on 93 pump gas so ill need like 1000cc injectors. Ill tune with DSM link. Im thinking Wiseco piston and eagle rods All ARP hardware. High flow fuel rail Aeromotive fuel Pressure regulator Walboro 255 id like a 272 cam i just dont know which make is for what i want. Im just unsure of a lot of things and want to get them straightened out before i go on a spending spree. What kind of compression do i want? Should i overbore? What do i need for head work? I just need some steps in the right direction before i make my first purchases. Any help at all is appreciated. i would like stay non stroked 2.0. Most parts i buy are going to try to be from deals on here and locally. Let me know what you guys think i tryed to post pretty descriptive

 

[e85_4g63]

Here is a link to the tech write up of a "How to" on porting the oil pressure relief valve (located in the oil filter housing itself).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/319342-oil-pressure-relief-valve-porting.html

The stock crank (uncut) with just a nice polish, will be plenty strong enough for your goals. I don't want to get into an kind of fighting about turbo choice honestly. I personally have a PTE 6262 (ball bearing version). Forced Performance makes great turbo's. There HTA 3582 or HTA 3586 with a T3 hotside is more turbo then you'd need for your goal. The turbo I have will do 500whp, 600whp, even 700whp with a well thought out setup. Like I said, if your on a budget (who isn't!), the Holset turbo's will do you just fine. No matter what turbo you choose, use a T3 turbine housing. The bolt on housings will work yes, but why put undue stress on the motor using such a restrictive turbine housing? FMIC choice is going to play a roll in the amount of power you'll make, as well as intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and T/B choice. There are so many things I could go on and on about, just with the engine alone.

e85 is a great fuel. The problem is (with any alcohol fuel) you need some serious pump and injectors. I'd recommend a minimum of 1 jay racing 342 pro series pump (1g AWD part number is 342). Here is a link to that pump.

http://www.jayracing.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=2_5&products_id=2619

For injectors the bigger the better. If you have the funds. FIC 2150's are great injectors. You'll need (at the minimum) 1450cc injectors (like the FIC 1450 blue max's). Although low imp. injectors (stock, blue max's, etc) aren't as good as high imp. injectors, they still work fine. Combine these 2 things with a good fuel filter, -6AN feed line setup, and a quality FPR and you'll be set (fuel wise).

 

[1995gsxawd]

Here is a link to the tech write up of a "How to" on porting the oil pressure relief valve (located in the oil filter housing itself).

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/319342-oil-pressure-relief-valve-porting.html

The stock crank (uncut) with just a nice polish, will be plenty strong enough for your goals. I don't want to get into an kind of fighting about turbo choice honestly. I personally have a PTE 6262 (ball bearing version). Forced Performance makes great turbo's. There HTA 3582 or HTA 3586 with a T3 hotside is more turbo then you'd need for your goal. The turbo I have will do 500whp, 600whp, even 700whp with a well thought out setup. Like I said, if your on a budget (who isn't!), the Holset turbo's will do you just fine. No matter what turbo you choose, use a T3 turbine housing. The bolt on housings will work yes, but why put undue stress on the motor using such a restrictive turbine housing? FMIC choice is going to play a roll in the amount of power you'll make, as well as intake manifold, exhaust manifold, and T/B choice. There are so many things I could go on and on about, just with the engine alone.

e85 is a great fuel. The problem is (with any alcohol fuel) you need some serious pump and injectors. I'd recommend a minimum of 1 jay racing 342 pro series pump (1g AWD part number is 342). Here is a link to that pump.

Jay Racing Pro Series 342 Fuel Pump PT342 255 LPH High Pressure [PT342] - $149.00 : Jay Racing

For injectors the bigger the better. If you have the funds. FIC 2150's are great injectors. You'll need (at the minimum) 1450cc injectors (like the FIC 1450 blue max's). Although low imp. injectors (stock, blue max's, etc) aren't as good as high imp. injectors, they still work fine. Combine these 2 things with a good fuel filter, -6AN feed line setup, and a quality FPR and you'll be set (fuel wise).

Whats a good FMIC to get? Theres so many brand and ive heard so many goods and bads about them all it seems like . The exhasut manifold i would buy a T3 tubular header Im unsure about the intake manifold and the Throttle body. Ill be picking up deals on the injectors and ill run my own -6AN lines from the tank With an aeromotive FPR

 

[Gasolinebaptism]

You should realize that You'll be lucky to get 15 mpg on e85... So factor that into your weekly drive for fuel.

 

[1995gsxawd]

You should realize that You'll be lucky to get 15 mpg on e85... So factor that into your weekly drive for fuel.

JESUS! I forgot E85 gets terrible gas mileage

 

[e85_4g63]

I was going to try to convince you to go with 91 oct and a meth injection kit, but you stated e85 (which happens to be something I know quite a bit about personally). As for a FMIC kit. "Quality" kits cost a lot more, but they are worth there weight in gold. In other words, if you get an eBay FMIC kit, your ait's are high causing knock in your tune, guess what you'll be buying a second time?...

 

[1995gsxawd]

I was going to try to convince you to go with 91 oct and a meth injection kit, but you stated e85 (which happens to be something I know quite a bit about personally). As for a FMIC kit. "Quality" kits cost a lot more, but they are worth there weight in gold. In other words, if you get an eBay FMIC kit, your ait's are high causing knock in your tune, guess what you'll be buying a second time?...

i get what your saying. I like the idea of using E 85 even tho you get crappy MPG ill be getting even worse cause im sure ill be romping on it a wee bit after break in

 

[e85_4g63]

Maybe you should consider setting up 2 tunes for the car (pump and e85)...

 

[little-razcal]

Sorry for the novel. I know some of these parts may not be "needed" (like the 272's), but the build I'm suggesting is a mix of what's "needed" for 500whp and what's "common place" in 600hp cars. Remember, it sucks buying parts twice. Don't get a Eagle rods for 500whp and have one create a window in your block because you want 600whp after driving around with 500....

Anything else you want to know just ask..

???
Eagle rods have been known to hold power way beyond 600whp. They are actualy rated to 1000hp believe it or not. The rod bolt will go before the rod.

To the OP.... your not going to blow a rod through your block going from 500whp to 600whp. As long as your tune is on, Eagle rods will hold plenty of power.

 

[e85_4g63]

???
Eagle rods have been known to hold power way beyond 600whp. They are actualy rated to 1000hp believe it or not. The rod bolt will go before the rod.

To the OP.... your not going to blow a rod through your block going from 500whp to 600whp. As long as your tune is on, Eagle rods will hold plenty of power.

I wasn't implying specifically that Eagle rods will self destruct. I was simply sighting them as an example. There are people who have ruined Eagle rods with less power then stock bottom ends have held, and there are people out there with over 700whp on Eagles. I'm sure you know that Eagle buys there metal from China (part of the reason they're rods are cheap) and the quality isn't always the best. Again, not saying Eagles are bad, just saying, buy cheap, buy twice. Sorry if my comment about the Eagle rods confused anyone. I didn't mean it the way it came out..

 

[1995gsxawd]

After everything stated i think ill just set it up for pump gas at this time. I know i dont want to buy things twice but i feel its the better option right now.

 

[e85_4g63]

That's why I wanted you to set a def. goal as far as horsepower. Things can change so fast with planning, that there's no reason to buy parts till you know EXACTLY what you want.. If you have any other questions feel free to ask! We're all here to help each other out

 

[1995gsxawd]

Yeah im really glad i talked to the forums first before i wasted money. Im looking to do a 4g63 colt swap if this helps. Ideally i want it to be AWD but i think im going FWD to start out.

 

[spyder1219]

Not too out of date here, but on the maperformance site they have a few listings under ARP bolts and studs. They have a cylinder head stud kit for 92$ and a main stud for 63$. I have finally settled on the tried and true wiseco/eagle/arp setup, and im well aware of the difference in head studs and rod bolts. What the f*ck are main studs? ..for connecting the crank and bearings?... intake/exhaust? Any light shed would be very appreciated.

 

[rpg_dog]

They hold the main caps that hold the crank down.

 

[crankwalker95]

Since he's on the topic of his build. As far as the bottom end goes.. Be sure to spend the money on a good harmonic balancer! A lot of ppl overlook this step in their build

 

[phunny]

I would highly recommend L19's over the standard arp. $100 is a very small price to pay for that insurance

 

[bryanwheat]

I was going to try to convince you to go with 91 oct and a meth injection kit, but you stated e85 (which happens to be something I know quite a bit about personally). As for a FMIC kit. "Quality" kits cost a lot more, but they are worth there weight in gold. In other words, if you get an eBay FMIC kit, your ait's are high causing knock in your tune, guess what you'll be buying a second time?...

Actually most of the intercoolers that you find on ebay are the same exact style of cores that just about every one of the high end companies use. Another upside is that they use thicker metal on the end tanks. Alot of the high end custom intercoolers are built kind of cheap in my opinion.

 

[mitsu-luver]

If i build it im going to build it to where i shouldnt have to worry about it at all.

Exactly do light weight internals, that's my opinion. Mahle pistons and the lightest rods that you can buy. Its not the compressed forces of a turbocharged engine that kills them, Its revs and weight. when the piston reaches tdc it really wants to rip off upwards right then. Im sure you've seen pics with rods snapped right in the middle, well that wasn't boost. That's the force of the piston traveling upwards and snapping off then. Mahle FTW.

 

[1995gsxawd]

Yeah im just glad ive got this thread honestly! IT sounds like E 85 is the way to go regardless. Ive read it is a lot easier on the internals and has a lot more longevity. not to mention you can achieve greater power gains

 

[arrowhead]

You are getting very good advise from everyone, dont waste it.

 

[4G63_GSX]

a good fuel pump for either e85 or pump gas is a deatshwerks thats what i currently run 300lph plus a inline 190 with some good injectors i run 1450 bluemaxx fic's and an intake mani. magnus has reliable intakes. pte turbos and garret is the best bang for your buck how much boost do you want to run is also an important question.

 

[jaden]

I would go with the built bottom end and a forced performance 68HTA turbo... but than again 500whp also seems a little overkill for the street to me. I would expect to be breaking something fairly often on that high of a hp dsm.

I think your goal is attainable on this turbo... I saw the dyno sheet for a guy in canada that ran 443fwhp on an evoIII 16g.... plus who wants to wait all that time for a larger turbo to spool

.02

 

[91'AWDFUN]

I like the Buschur racing double fuel pump. The FP Green is a great turbo for the street.

 

[Woot]

I would go with the built bottom end and a forced performance 68HTA turbo... but than again 500whp also seems a little overkill for the street to me. I would expect to be breaking something fairly often on that high of a hp dsm.

I think your goal is attainable on this turbo... I saw the dyno sheet for a guy in canada that ran 443fwhp on an evoIII 16g.... plus who wants to wait all that time for a larger turbo to spool

.02

You clearly don't know what your talking about.. I've seen more then a few street driven 500hp dsms who all drive fine and at least one daily year round with no breakage.... sorry how fast is your dsm anyway?

thats like saying your gsxr 600 is overkill for the street

also waiting all that time for turbo spool? again, I've seen guys on a 35r who are at full spool by 3800rpm...

go back to the dream land you came from, .... oh and while your there, speak with Torreto, or Brian, I need some of those Titanium valve springs. I heard them talking last at the dinner table about em.. must of been how you got yours.

 

[camfast]

You should start with stock bottom end with a real good tune. Spend your money on bolt ons and tune. A true 450whp is a lot of power on the street .