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1g 16g build

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waterd

Probationary Member
11
0
Apr 16, 2009
brooklyn park, Minnesota
well i fianllt finished my car today. i got the head cleaned agian and resurfaced. this time i installed a 3layer oem head gasket with arp studs. i also installed a walbro 255 fuel pump, a aftermarket exhaust manifold, a big 16g turbo and o2 housing.i have a automatic so the turbo water banjo bolt holes are to big so for now i pluged the lines. i got new ones coming monday from the dealer from a evo. but anyways i installed a boost gauge and found i boost up to 20 psi and then it stalls bad. im going to say thats my fuel cut? so now im curious should i get a boost controller and stay under 20psi and defeat the purpose of the bigger turbo? or what are my many options? like i said before i would like 11s but im kinda confused on the turboed gas motors.
 
also im missing my window outside belt moldings and mistu dealer doesnt sell them anymore. any help on that too?
 
fuel cut is bad, and running lean is really bad. If you run that lean all the time, then you can melt a piston or burn a valve, when you threw in that 255 your car will run richer at idle because it will over power the stock fpr causing your car to wash gas down the cylinders and wear out the piston rings. You can install an afpr, such as fuel lab. Ebay fprs wont work unless it raise fuel 1:1 with boost. I still dont know if id trust their fprs on ebay. On a 1g you can hack the maf to lean it out with the install of a 255 but its still a guessing game until you have a wideband o2.
 
i guess i didnt know this mods where going to make this big of difference. well i took of my af housing and took the bottom honey comb off. and when i get to work im going to modify the af housing. im going to be looking for a boost and fuel gauges. and air/fuel ratio gauge. plus a afpr and a boost controller and possible injectors. i notice a back fire after every time it cuts. so maybe spark plugs and wires. ngks. well hopfully the af mod does help. will comment later. any advise is greatly appericated. you all seem to know alot. i have a hard time reading everything on here because i suck at reading but if its too me im better. thanks agian:thumb:
 
i got my boost controller today. im going to start low and go till i hit my fuel cut. then reset the ecm and go half a turn down. what would be a safe psi to run with stock block and head with head studs? also im going this next week to get my fpr and fuel gauge. injectors and wideband o2 . well of too tune my boost.
 
run about 15-17 psi, should be safe until you can tune it. Although to tune the bigger injectors you will need a SAFC or something too.
 
thanks. i tried to tune my boost and no matter what i get cut ever turned out all the way. i disconnect the battery to reset it everytime but still the same. i have one line going to the external wastegate and the other to the compressor side of the turbo. i capped the outlet on the airbox. now im confused if im getting too much boost or fuel. i need my fpr kit. but i have to order it from Modern Automotive Performance. im soo confused. is there anything im missing to turn it down or do i need to turn it up?
 
It might not be fuel cut. It might be a bad ground or your spark plug gaps are off. If the ground wire from the battery is not on the firewall good enough it will make it cut out being on that that much boost
 
i replaceed my spark plugs tonight with .021 gap. it will out almost fully throttle and over 20psi i noticed. my plug wires had the little rubbers on the bottom come off. but they are the bigger saprk plug wires. i ran it tonight after the plugs. it runs smoother but still cuts/ back fires. i also noticed when i shut my car off to do the plugs my aftermarket exhaust manifold was glowing orange. pretty sweet but im concerened. please help. i have already taken the wire of the fire wall and took a wire wheel to it because the mitsu fuso's i work on have bad ground problems.
 
does it only cut out when you are on the gas almost all the way
 
yes. no certain rph but when i try to get on it it goes to around 20 psi it start cutting and back firing. im going to get new wires today
 
got new bosch plugs and wires. runs better but around 23 psi i still cuts and backfires. i still can get my boost controller to to lower my boost
 
Why dont you run a vaccum line from your wastgate right to the turbo outlet. That whay you will be on your lowest boost seting.
 
ok so the boost controlller didnt work so i took my shop air compressor and started at zero i could barly get the waste gate to open at 20+ psi. so i took my old 14b out and seen that the waste gate will open all the way with a vise grips at the pivit point. the "big16g" opens about a 1/4 of the way. is this normal or did i find my problem? i think i might jusy put my old 14b on for now till i get some resonds. man this sucks!
 
today i took my turbo back off and installed the manual trans turbo coolant lines with the new bigger banjo bolts. my automatic had small banjo bolts for the coolant lines. so i went to mitsubishi and bought thr coolant lines and banjo fittings for a evo with the 16g. works great. i took my actuator of and it sprung back. the people that dsm graveyard bought the turbo from didnt set the rod lenth long enoughf so it was at 3/4s out at closed posistion. i re adjusted the rod to closed at no spring. now it moves freely at around 20psi all the way open to all the way closed. so tomarro i put it all back together and see if i can get that boost controlled.
 
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