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1AAuto.com Front Control Arms

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BossGreen

Proven Member
49
1
Apr 22, 2013
Walden, New York
Hey guys so I was trying to find a review I could trust or some more info on these control arms but I only found a review for the 1G control arms which seemed to be good quality. However, I am skeptical that since the set of 4 is $160 they're cheap quality. I was just wondering if anyone has had success with these. There's only 1 link and it's hard to actually see any welds or anything in the pictures. If no one has tried these yet for the 2G I may have to be the guinea pig :D

Here's the link:
1995-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse Front Lower Control Arm with Ball Joint (Set of 4) at 1AAuto.com

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Id snag those up, seems like a great deal. The only real risk I see is the durability of the ball joints.

Usually I dont go cheap on things that can kill me if they break.:p

Let us know how they work for you if you get them.
 
Id snag those up, seems like a great deal. The only real risk I see is the durability of the ball joints.

Usually I dont go cheap on things that can kill me if they break.:p

Let us know how they work for you if you get them.

I don't like to go cheap on things either but from the sounds of the review of the 1G control arms they seem to be of OE quality. Just hoping this is true for the 2G ones! ;)
 
I would pick them up. I ordered an oil pan and just yesterday a 1g front control arm from them. Very good quality. The only issue I had with the control arm was the rear bushing. It didn't line up properly with the bracket so I swapped on my Energy Suspension bushing and all is well. I know someone that works for them and he said he's never had any returned so it might be a special case with myself.
 
I cant say for 2g arms, but I bought the 1g arms and they are of good quality, welds are good and strong, however, the ball joints have gone south. I bought the arms in september of 2011, pretty sure i put them on around that time too. Probably around 7 to 10k miles on them....maybe even less, I cant remember. Good thing is, the ball joints are servicable separate from the arm. The 2gs arent though.....

Your choice brother

EDIT: I hate being the guy to ruin things for others, just giving my honest experience is all.
 
I would pick them up. I ordered an oil pan and just yesterday a 1g front control arm from them. Very good quality. The only issue I had with the control arm was the rear bushing. It didn't line up properly with the bracket so I swapped on my Energy Suspension bushing and all is well. I know someone that works for them and he said he's never had any returned so it might be a special case with myself.

Yeah I think I'm going to grab them. I emailed 1aauto and asked for some more pictures of the welds but they said they only had the one picture :nono: still seem like a steal though

I cant say for 2g arms, but I bought the 1g arms and they are of good quality, welds are good and strong, however, the ball joints have gone south. I bought the arms in september of 2011, pretty sure i put them on around that time too. Probably around 7 to 10k miles on them....maybe even less, I cant remember. Good thing is, the ball joints are servicable separate from the arm. The 2gs arent though.....

Your choice brother

EDIT: I hate being the guy to ruin things for others, just giving my honest experience is all.

Nah I appreciate the honesty. Thats why I asked I want people opinions not just have people try to sugar coat it. I might try them out. I mean for the price you can't go wrong. Thanks guys!
 
1g might be fine but you can replace your ball joints in a 1g and as someone pointed out theirs failed in a few thousand miles. The 2g once the ball joint is bad the arm is junk.
$160 and they will probably last maybe a year or buy OEM for less than $200. My OEM arms were on the car from 95 and were still good. 145k miles.

JNZ tuning and order mr325009 and mr325010. Probably be right at $200 including shipping. Paul even told me he could save some on the shipping if you don't need the knuckles and want just the arms.
 
There's only 1 link and it's hard to actually see any welds or anything in the pictures. If no one has tried these yet for the 2G I may have to be the guinea pig :D

If I recall, there aren't any welds on those arms. They are a cast piece.

Suspension Talon Sebring galant Eclipse 95 00 Arm Ends | eBay

This is a link to the set I used last year on my sister-in-law's car. (and yes, I like her) The horseshoe arms for the top are not as beefy as the ones I took off the car, they didn't have the flat plate welded on, but they seem to work fine. The lower arms felt as heavy as the stock ones. Poor delivery guy had to carry one hell of a heavy box. I think you can get a set without those if you only want the lower parts.
 
If I recall, there aren't any welds on those arms. They are a cast piece.

Suspension Talon Sebring galant Eclipse 95 00 Arm Ends | eBay

This is a link to the set I used last year on my sister-in-law's car. (and yes, I like her) The horseshoe arms for the top are not as beefy as the ones I took off the car, they didn't have the flat plate welded on, but they seem to work fine. The lower arms felt as heavy as the stock ones. Poor delivery guy had to carry one hell of a heavy box. I think you can get a set without those if you only want the lower parts.

That's the same set I have on my car but I got it on sale 2 years ago. I only drive my car maybe 5 times a month and I don't autox or anything like that. If anyone was worried about the uppers not being boxed then they could just go and have them boxed in or do it themselves. I figured for less than $200 when I bought mine, why not :D
 
1g might be fine but you can replace your ball joints in a 1g and as someone pointed out theirs failed in a few thousand miles. The 2g once the ball joint is bad the arm is junk.
$160 and they will probably last maybe a year or buy OEM for less than $200. My OEM arms were on the car from 95 and were still good. 145k miles.

JNZ tuning and order mr325009 and mr325010. Probably be right at $200 including shipping. Paul even told me he could save some on the shipping if you don't need the knuckles and want just the arms.

Definitely see what your saying, going to go check out those ones on JNZ now! Thanks for the info!
 
I know several guys local that got aftermarket ball joints for several different cars and most ended up going bad fairly quickly. It's not as big a deal to me with the front upper ball joint because it's easy to replace and you don't have to buy a new arm. $30 and a few hours and done. With the upper ball joint I just choose a well known company like raybestos or moog. Even at that I check the condition of it about every time I change the oil. If the boot is cracked then for sure your getting dirt and grit in the joint.

Sway bar links I do the same thing. Easy to replace and if it broke your just going to have more body roll. So aftermarket doesn't bother me.

I'm paranoid. LOL I have had an aftermarket control arm break once. Not my dsm but it porked up the car pretty good. Ripped the axle out of the tranny, ruined the tranny seal, bent the shock, flat spotted the tire, and crammed the wheel and knuckle into the inner and outer fender mashing both.
 
I know several guys local that got aftermarket ball joints for several different cars and most ended up going bad fairly quickly. It's not as big a deal to me with the front upper ball joint because it's easy to replace and you don't have to buy a new arm. $30 and a few hours and done. With the upper ball joint I just choose a well known company like raybestos or moog. Even at that I check the condition of it about every time I change the oil. If the boot is cracked then for sure your getting dirt and grit in the joint.

Sway bar links I do the same thing. Easy to replace and if it broke your just going to have more body roll. So aftermarket doesn't bother me.

I'm paranoid. LOL I have had an aftermarket control arm break once. Not my dsm but it porked up the car pretty good. Ripped the axle out of the tranny, ruined the tranny seal, bent the shock, flat spotted the tire, and crammed the wheel and knuckle into the inner and outer fender mashing both.

Wow that's crazy. I'm pretty paranoid too which is why I wanna replace them now haha lately I've read about a lot of people's ball joints going out while they are stopped or moving real slow and the pics look nasty so I get worried how bad it'd be if you're actually driving at a decent speed, or highway speeds :ohdamn: I might just go OEM with everything so I have piece of mind.
 
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