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1998 gst no power / rich

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eaglerider2

Probationary Member
5
0
Feb 14, 2011
Tinley Park, Illinois
I have a 1998 GST Spyder that we purchased with the top end of the motor missing. The head was pulled off by a dealer for timing belt replacement and never replaced. Well to make a long story short, We purchased a 1997 complete motor out of a wreck for it.
We finished the installation and the Spyder started up like a charm with no funny noises or issues with the exception of the car revs up very slowly.
It will rev to 4500 rpm but you have to pump it to get it up there.
We did a water pump, timing belt, idlers etc and I know they are installed correctly.
The only thing we found to be different is the 1997 did not have a provision for the canister purge solonoid vacuum so we installed a t in the the pcv line to feed it vacuum.
Also the exhaust manifold is glowing hot when we drive it around the block. and it wont hardly move under it's own power.
Well we did lots of things to the car over the past few days. We found lots of boost leaks. Such as the injector seals and the throttle body etc.
Now when we start it it still runs poorly and it wont rev up well. also the turbo seems to clank sometimes when I am trying to get it to rev.
.
Ok Guys and Gals in the know.
We have tried everything we can think of and it is about to start getting expensive. We have done leak tests, Replaced the turbo, Knock Sensor, Injector Seals, Swapped out various sensors, Checked timing, etc. and Still this thing will hardly run, it is very rich blowing black out the tail pipe, and fouling plugs (all4 not just 1), it is hard to start and will only move slightly fwd or in reverse with the petal to the floor. We have scoured the web for help and do not know what to do next. PLEASE HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
 
Did you change out the front o2 sensor? That is a main cause of running rich. Also, what about simple spark plugs and wires? If you don't have a proper spark it won't burn all of the fuel. Also, depending on how long the car sat you may want to run fuel cleaner/new gas through it to try and "clean" out the bad gas.

As far as reving up slowly i don't know. Check the throttle cable. It might also be due to a lot of build up on the pistons? I'm not 100% on that, there is probably some other reason.

Those were just some ideas to research or check

Good luck
 
Last edited by a moderator:
We replaced the front o2 sensor and now we are getting a reading on the scanner for both o2 sensors. It starts better, Idles better, still seems to rev slower than it should and when in gear it has NO power I mean NO power It will hardly move it self out of the garage.
Any thoughts
 
Well if you replaced the o2 sensor with a good one and are still getting an cel for a bad o2 then maybe you have ecu problems? Check and see if its damaged at all. And if it has some type of tuning setup maybe you need to adjust it
 
Have you checked your cat to see if its blocked or clogged? Someone on here posted a thread about their flexpipe being crushed down to 1" in diameter and also said their car would rev slowly, and the car in general was slow. So an exhaust blockage may be your problem.
 
We replaced the o2 with a new one last night and now are getting good voltage readings on both sensors. The car is not running as rich and idles better. The car also is running a little cooler as well. I did finally get a check engine code (Speed Sensor) that I reset. But the car still has NO Power and will hardly pull itself out of the garage. The car seems like it is trying but has NO power.
Ed

We are going to pull the exhaust again and try the cat thing now that the car is running better than it was last time we tried it.
I will let you know how it goes.
.
Any thoughts on the speed sensor code showing up?
Ed

Started it today and it is running awful again. It was lots better last night and back to junk this evening.
 
The MAF is plugged in I thought about that also.
Thought on the ecu?
There is no visible damage on the ecu.
Ed
 
Check the throttle position sensor, i had the same problem with my focus and was the throttle position sensor.

What? The TPS on a 2g is only used for idle switch and open loop operation (above a certain percentage).

What actual AFRs are you showing? What fuel pressure are you seeing? Is the regulator bad/connected wrong? Is the FPR Solenoid bad? Are the injectors the right injectors? Is the fuel pump outflowing the FPR?
 
Check the cam angle sensor and crank position sensor and make sure they are in the proper position and have proper voltage.
 
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