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General 1996 3000gt with vr4 swapped

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SupremeBreach

Probationary Member
5
0
Apr 10, 2025
Lincoln, Nebraska
Hello a quick background I am pretty familiar with cars and have done some basic to mid mechanic work. I recently just bought a 3000gt 1996 with a VR4 engine swap into it. I was wondering what is the best path to take as it still has the stock ECU.

They put in a MAF Translator to compensate as the person who last owned it was trying to sell it someone asked him to up the rpm limiter. He changed the configs on the MAF Translator and didn't save its original configuration.

I have found I believe a Hand Held Halo datalogger would be a good choice to be able to retune the MAF Translator as I can get AFR readings using the logger. Or should I look into getting a VR4 ECU.

Anything helps I got this car to learn. Thank you for your time.
 
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Forged crankshaft, stock ecu the picture above is the exact maf translator they used, an upgraded fuel pump, thats pretty much all I am aware of i need to find the serial number on the engine to get more details.
 

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That MAF-T alone isn't going to get you running the best with a NA ECU. Just get a VR4 ECU (and harness) or get the Chrome ECU for tunability. Chrome is a "factory ECU" that can be flashed with tunes.

The HHH logger is OLD technology. It doesn't allow any tunability. Only provides information.

There is a ton of missing information too. What injectors? If its stock TT injectors it would be 360CC low impedance. Does it have resistors installed, or an injector resistor pack? NA injectors are 210CC high impedance. Stock 9b turbos? What engine? Is it a TT engine with 8:1 compression, or is it still a NA engine with 10:1 compression with the turbo bits mounted?

Also just some knowledge to add to your bank. A 3000GT is neither JDM nor is it a DSM.

There are a ton of 3/S (3000GT/Stealth) resources all over the web. Check out placed like Stealth316.com, 3swiki, 3SGTO (the forum was shut down a year or so ago, but the info is still there), or 3SI. Back in the day Nebraska was a happening spot for the 3/S crews. There was a division of 3/S owners in what they called INK (Iowa, Nebraska, Kansas) I used to talk with a lof of the members on a regular basis. I even met one of the members when she was visiting family in my area.
 
A 3000GT is neither JDM nor is it a DSM.
The 3S series are 100% not DSM's but they are all build in Nagoya, Japan so other than a name change from GTO what else makes them not JDM?
Being built in Japan doesn't make it JDM. The Mitsubishi GTO is JDM. JDM means Japanese Domestic Market. That means the car is built to be sold in Japan. The 3000GT is USDM. It was built to be sold in the US. It could also be EDM if it was built to be sold in Europe.

There are American made cars that are JDM. There are JDM Corvettes.
I have JDM taillights and the JDM center panel in my 3000gt. You see guys talk about the EDM taillights for DSMs. They came from EDM DSMs. You know, a car built in the US, to be sold in Europe.
 
From Japan and being FOR Japan are not the same thing. Products built to be sold in Japan would be for the Japanese Domeatic Market or JDM. Different rules may apply. For instance the EDM taillights we like for DSM...why aren't they on US cars also? Different rules. Typically I think we use JDM for products made in Japan and sold in Japan but not sold in the US.
 
So @SupremeBreach, now that we have the JDM issue resolved :). Where would you like to go?

I don't see any adjustments for rev limit on the MAFT, that's usually an ECU parameter, so I'm not sure what the PO changed. Let start with what the current settings are.

I'm also not aware of how HHH would tell you the actual AFR without some external hardware since the 3S doesn't have a wideband O2 sensor stock. It can tell you the fuel trims with are the closed loop corrections to reach 14.7:1 and maybe the target AFR the ECU wants (It's been awhile, I don't remember all the standard parameters in ODB II interface).

Which ECU do you have right now? MD319638?

Chrome was where the 3S tuning was headed when I tuned out. It quickly became pay to play and there were other ECU's to focus on.

As @stealthee mentioned it's important to know what injectors are installed and if there is a injector resistor to work with the turbo injectors. Same for the engine questions. Hard to move forward with what we know right now.
 
Definitely agreed that the MAFT has no effect on rev limit. That's built into the ECU.

MAFT is more about controlling injectors. With stock injectors on a stock ECU it's going to do very little to help.
 
MAF Translator is just another box that lies to the ECU about airflow with all the side effects that come with that. An SAFC does a better job with more control, but during the time that a MAFT was popular, people believed that a Mitsubishi MAF was a serious performance limiter restricting airflow and that a GM hotwire MAF was "better". The other driver was so they could put it behind the BOV and vent to the atmosphere for more pshhh.

The biggest issue with modifying the airflow signal to compensate for larger injectors is it causes the ECU to miscalculate engine "load" and advance the timing sometimes with drastic results.

I'm trying the revive all the brain cells that used to hold all the differences from the DOHC NA and Turbo ECUs. Beside the obvious factory tuning there were a few like the fuel pump resistor control and some MTX/ATX interaction for torque management. Which raises the question of is this car a Manual or Automatic?
 
MAF Translator is just another box that lies to the ECU about airflow with all the side effects that come with that. An SAFC does a better job with more control, but during the time that a MAFT was popular, people believed that a Mitsubishi MAF was a serious performance limiter restricting airflow and that a GM hotwire MAF was "better". The other driver was so they could put it behind the BOV and vent to the atmosphere for more pshhh.

The biggest issue with modifying the airflow signal to compensate for larger injectors is it causes the ECU to miscalculate engine "load" and advance the timing sometimes with drastic results.

I'm trying the revive all the brain cells that used to hold all the differences from the DOHC NA and Turbo ECUs. Beside the obvious factory tuning there were a few like the fuel pump resistor control and some MTX/ATX interaction for torque management. Which raises the question of is this car a Manual or Automatic?
100% agree. This technology is simply old and outdated
 
Thank you for everyones responses. I have been stupid busy with life. I know that i have 360cc injectors. The car is a manual. I couldn't see a resistor pack but I have taken a photo of a serial number on the engine to answer that. And general photos. Also my ecu is the stock 3000gt one.

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Should have a resistor pack somewhere if using the turbo injectors.

FYI - that F5M33… engraving is on the transmission. Not sure what it was meant to answer but it does show us it is, in fact, a FWD and manual.
 
So i guess my next question is do i just setup with a vr4 ecu. Then would i need anything tuned.
 
So @SupremeBreach, now that we have the JDM issue resolved :). Where would you like to go?

I don't see any adjustments for rev limit on the MAFT, that's usually an ECU parameter, so I'm not sure what the PO changed. Let start with what the current settings are.

I'm also not aware of how HHH would tell you the actual AFR without some external hardware since the 3S doesn't have a wideband O2 sensor stock. It can tell you the fuel trims with are the closed loop corrections to reach 14.7:1 and maybe the target AFR the ECU wants (It's been awhile, I don't remember all the standard parameters in ODB II interface).

Which ECU do you have right now? MD319638?

Chrome was where the 3S tuning was headed when I tuned out. It quickly became pay to play and there were other ECU's to focus on.

As @stealthee mentioned it's important to know what injectors are installed and if there is a injector resistor to work with the turbo injectors. Same for the engine questions. Hard to move forward with what we know right now.
I have posted some.images and answered to thr best of my abilities. I would like to just get it running for now but in the safest manner. What I believe is to buy thr correct ecu for the engine. But will it still need tuned after that?
 
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