1993 Eclipse GSX

[Dericsh]

Yep, your EGR has been blocked off. That’s a pretty common mod, nothing to worry about I don’t think.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Yep, your EGR has been blocked off. That’s a pretty common mod, nothing to worry about I don’t think.

Thanks. I do not like the quality of the plate but if it works im not going to mess with it.
Im also going to ignore the fact I live in California and may need that at some point.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Pulled off the passenger door panel because I noticed it wasnt held on so well. Replaced all the door clips with some spares I had laying around from my WJ Jeep. They work well enough. Also found some better screws to hold the bottom door handle on.


When I pulled the door panel off the speaker fell out. It was just sitting in the stock speaker bucket. After much research I still have no idea what size the stock speakers actually were.
Designed and 3D printed a mount for the speaker. I need to make the inner part longer (deeper?) so it covers more of the back of the speaker for when water gets into the door. But thats a problem for future me.
The 4 original holes to the door were printed empty so the screws fit through. The holes for the speaker itself to mount I just left out and use some self tappers.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Installed an ABS delete kit. Still working on removing the wiring harness.


Also made up a mount for the bottom of the oil cooler.


Found that the stock fuel line was cut at some point and had a piece of rubber hose added. Not necessarily a problem just something I was unaware of. Unsure why this was done but it works for now. The hose was way too long and kinked so I shortened it up and reattached it.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Transmission back in! Im excited.... Things should start going back together now.
You can see where I needed to have a crack in the housing repaired in this picture.
All brand new OEM bolts since the old bolts were some random stuff from god knows where.


Had to repair the threads for the Jerry bolt. New hardware tightened down nicely!


During the removal I found this long crossmember missing. Had to order one off ebay.
Sprayed it with rust promoter then a coat of black. Did the same with the existing bracket at the bottom.
Also new hardware since well... it was all missing.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Got a couple things done toady.
Ordered new roll stop bracket things because apparently the previous owner installed the wrong ones and my motor is not sitting quite right. Thanks to all of those that helped me figure that one out.

Cleaned up the transfer case a bit to get ready for the reinstall.
Found this nice piece of work...

This looks to be from the flywheel rubbing. Assuming this is because the transmission was barely holding on for dear life and separating from the engine block at times.
Looks to still be usable though, thankfully.

Also found this interesting sticker next to what looks like a lever thing. Haven't looked anything up yet but this looks like a mechanical 4wd/2wd selector?


Got the left side shaft back into the trans with two new OEM bolts for the bearing. The name of this escapes me at the moment.
Not sure what the JB weld is there for. It looks to have been spilt from something else. I saw no other traces of it and the bearing carrier looks fine.


Found all of the bolts on the bottom of the intake manifold loose and 1 missing. Tightened them up and replaced the missing one.

 

[pauleyman]

At one time I'm going to guess the trans was or still is missing the bolt that goes in from the backside. When you clutch in the transfercase will move with the trans and Co tact the flywheel if the inspection cover is missing. Also that appears to be an aluminum front case on the tcase. If so those were 1990 only suggesting you have a Mish mash of parts. Obviously since you have a selectable trans nothing is original. That isn't even USDM. If memory serves selectable trans match to a selectable tcase.

 

[silentsnow31802]

At one time I'm going to guess the trans was or still is missing the bolt that goes in from the backside. When you clutch in the transfercase will move with the trans and Co tact the flywheel if the inspection cover is missing. Also that appears to be an aluminum front case on the tcase. If so those were 1990 only suggesting you have a Mish mash of parts. Obviously since you have a selectable trans nothing is original. That isn't even USDM. If memory serves selectable trans match to a selectable tcase.

Are you talking about the "jerry bolt"? I was indeed missing this bolt. I found the threads also missing! I have since done a thread repair and got all new OEM bolts to bolt the transmission back up.
The transmission was indeed moving around and things were contacting other things. I also have some marks on the starter where it was contacting the flywheel.
The inspection cover is indeed missing. Apparently those are pretty hard to find these days?
Yes the tcase is aluminum. I am not surprised about the mish mash of parts. Recently found I have Galant motor mount brackets. In the process of getting those replaced.
Man I wish I could get a hold of the guy that put this thing together in the first place.

EDIT: Did some research on the selectable thing. Looks like my trans is not selectable as it is missing the lever.

 

[pauleyman]

Are you talking about the "jerry bolt"? I was indeed missing this bolt. I found the threads also missing! I have since done a thread repair and got all new OEM bolts to bolt the transmission back up.
The transmission was indeed moving around and things were contacting other things. I also have some marks on the starter where it was contacting the flywheel.
The inspection cover is indeed missing. Apparently those are pretty hard to find these days?
Yes the tcase is aluminum. I am not surprised about the mish mash of parts. Recently found I have Galant motor mount brackets. In the process of getting those replaced.
Man I wish I could get a hold of the guy that put this thing together in the first place.

EDIT: Did some research on the selectable thing. Looks like my trans is not selectable as it is missing the lever.
View attachment 699940

Yes the jerry bolt.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Got some things reinstalled today. Really hoping I can fire the engine up tomorrow. We'll see.

Motor mount brackets replaced. The front and rear were wrong as it turns out.
Thread:

https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/transmission-mount-doesnt-reach.543992/

New turbo oil drain installed.


Clutch slave mounted and shift linkage connected.


New speedometer cable. Also remove speedo gear and cleaned. Had to run a tap through the speedo gear bolt hole. I dont think there was a bolt there. It was filled with road grime.


Transfer case installed! No longer missing any hardware.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Replaced the right front half shaft and left front wheel bearing. Got the broken stud on the left front replaced and new lug nuts installed. Also removed the ABS ring while I was there. Got the left door panel removed and all the clips replaced. Replaced the speaker mount with a custom made one and soldered the wires to the speaker as they were electrical taped on.

Got the car started and moving under its own power!
Backed it out of the garage to clean the garage floor then pulled it right back in.
Still has no brakes from the ABS delete. Need to get those bled.

Car will not idle with the MAF plugged in. Smells very rich and misfires. Suspect the MAF is bad. Luckily, I have a new intercooler setup coming that comes with a in line GM MAF I can hopefully use.
Has an oil leak where the new turbo drain meets the oil pan. Not surprised as this area looked beat up. Anyone know how much oil I need to remove to get it below the return in the pan? I want to check this area again and fix the leak.
Started to drip coolant at the hose connection to the thermostat housing. The hose doesnt look secured well or maybe worn. Need to wait until the car cools to check it out.
Oil pressure gauge is hopefully broken. Was reading very low when cold. Once warmed up the needle was pegged at the low end. The wiring to the sensor is VERY bad. Its exposed and soldered. Its seriously terrible. I need to clean it up. Hoping that has something to do with the low reading. The oil dummy light does work and never came on.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Found I have some sort of adjustable camber arm in the rear. No idea what brand. It looks very old.


Got the brakes bled and backed the car out of the garage to clean up the floor once again. Pulled it back in and noticed quite a large a puddle in the driveway. Found brake fluid just gushing out of the rear left tire area. Removed the tire and found this line warn through. It just happened to fail after I bled the system. Thankfully nobody was driving the car at the time because it emptied the reservoir with just a couple pumps of the pedal.


Decided it was time to install one of the stainless braided lines that came with the ABS delete kit. I need to get some new calipers for the front as I ordered banjo lines on accident. Blessing in disguise really. Just motivates me to upgrade the front brakes at some point.


Also found plastic wrap wrapped around the rear left outer shaft boot. It was zip tied in place. Looks to have been put there as a replacement for the exploded boot underneath. So add that to the list of things needing done. Always fix one thing find two things wrong.

 

[92Turbski]

Found I have some sort of adjustable camber arm in the rear. No idea what brand. It looks very old.
View attachment 702270

Got the brakes bled and backed the car out of the garage to clean up the floor once again. Pulled it back in and noticed quite a large a puddle in the driveway. Found brake fluid just gushing out of the rear left tire area. Removed the tire and found this line warn through. It just happened to fail after I bled the system. Thankfully nobody was driving the car at the time because it emptied the reservoir with just a couple pumps of the pedal.
View attachment 702272View attachment 702271

Decided it was time to install one of the stainless braided lines that came with the ABS delete kit. I need to get some new calipers for the front as I ordered banjo lines on accident. Blessing in disguise really. Just motivates me to upgrade the front brakes at some point.
View attachment 702273

Also found plastic wrap wrapped around the rear left outer shaft boot. It was zip tied in place. Looks to have been put there as a replacement for the exploded boot underneath. So add that to the list of things needing done. Always fix one thing find two things wrong.

How about that, looks like a very early prototype.
Nice job, man. Good catch/timing on the brake line, WOW!
It's all good, man, these cars are really old now and it doesn't help when a total hack owned it before you. Keep on keeping on!

 

[silentsnow31802]

Fixed the wiring to the oil pressure sensors. Had to extend them and put new connectors on.


Found out this thing has footwell lighting! Replaced one of the missing bulbs.
The other still had the original amber cap over it. Its amazing how much of this car is original and still working while at the same time completely botched by some previous owner trying to tune it up.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Got some work done over the past few weeks. Some OEM, some performance (FINALLY!!).

Thank you @MichaelSuch for these OEM replacements.
Right side B pillar hook thing, rear wiper trim, bump stop thing for the hood?, Coolant reservoir, and battery tie down/box.
I had a hard time figuring out the coolant reservoir. Turns out an old owner bent the mount back to make room for the FMIC tubing and cut a hole in the body. I wont be using this cutout so I bent the mount back and put the OEM reservoir back.



Installed some cheap dash speakers from the jungle site. The original sounded terrible and were quite crusty. Figured it was cheap so why not.


Got a DSMLink ECU from @CrackedDSM for a steal. This has made troubleshooting WAY easier. Currently installed and working great. Still figuring out how to use it to its full potential.


Innovate MTX-L wideband from @Boomdeeze Got it wired up to the ECU for logging. Found im getting 22.4 AFR at idle so I need to look for exhaust leaks. Car runs great and is 100% not actually that AFR.


Got an oil pressure gauge purchased from a popular auction website. The stock dash gauge would show what looked like 0 once the car is warmed up so I was worried. Innovate gauge shows about 30psi at idle once warmed up (900~ RPM) so thats good news.
(Yes im missing a gauge, still need to buy the one that measures choo choo pressue)


Got a MAF translator from Extreme PSI. Needed one since I am in the process of installing a Dejon Tool FMIC that uses a GM MAF. Once I get the FMIC done ill post some pics.

 

[silentsnow31802]

How about that, looks like a very early prototype.
Nice job, man. Good catch/timing on the brake line, WOW!
It's all good, man, these cars are really old now and it doesn't help when a total hack owned it before you. Keep on keeping on!

Prototype eh? Don't know if that's good or bad . Pretty neat though. Ill have to see if I can clean up/rebuild them at some point.
I know right? Crazy that it just happened to blow right then. I'm just glad it didn't fail while driving at speed. I wouldn't have had much warning before I was out of brakes completely at the rate it lost fluid.

 

[CrackedDSM]

Super glad to hear it worked out great for you. I’m missing it right about now but the extra cash sure came in clutch. I miss the ecu less and less when I’m in my ice cold a/c that got fixed.


The arms look like the old 3SX arms. I’m have a set that came with my coilovers too. Pretty neat.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

Finally got around to reading through this, fantastic work you’re doing! However if I may give advice if you come across ECM tunings plug and play GM maf cable used grab it, I know they’re no longer making them but nice to have if you opt to keep the GM maf vs speed density. The maf translator will work just fine with ECMlink doing the rest of the work, the cable just cleans things up a bit and makes it so you don’t have to worry about water getting in the maf-t box (I’ve been there before, it sucked). On top of that using their cable adds the opportunity for even more fine tuning but for most it’s not at all necessary. Don’t get me wrong, that’s no hate on the GM maf or the translator, I’ll be attempting to source one at the shootout for something I’m working on as they can be had for damn near free these days, while I’ve used speed density there’s definitely things I do like about using a maf.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Finally got around to reading through this, fantastic work you’re doing! However if I may give advice if you come across ECM tunings plug and play GM maf cable used grab it, I know they’re no longer making them but nice to have if you opt to keep the GM maf vs speed density. The maf translator will work just fine with ECMlink doing the rest of the work, the cable just cleans things up a bit and makes it so you don’t have to worry about water getting in the maf-t box (I’ve been there before, it sucked). On top of that using their cable adds the opportunity for even more fine tuning but for most it’s not at all necessary. Don’t get me wrong, that’s no hate on the GM maf or the translator, I’ll be attempting to source one at the shootout for something I’m working on as they can be had for damn near free these days, while I’ve used speed density there’s definitely things I do like about using a maf.

Good advice indeed. When doing research I was disappointed to find out they're no longer making the cable. Only got the translator because of that. I will for sure keep an eye out for one. I want to avoid adding sensors and things which is why I didn't go speed density. Having the translator is an added box I'd rather not have.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Small update. Getting the intercooler to fit has whooped my butt.

Found an ECM Tuning MAF cable for sale that was made for a 2G here on the classifieds from @chrisman287 .
Changed out the 2G plug and wired in a 1G plug. Working great once I figured out the correct pinout.


EBC installed.


Got the intercooler plumbed in and the bottom mounts done. Need to finish the top mounts and the bumper beam.

 

[silentsnow31802]

Well... I was going through the exhaust manifold/turbo area. Getting things buttoned up. Had a few studs/threads and a heat wrapping that needed to be taken care of. While tapping the hot side of the turbo for a helicoil I found this...



Guess I'll be looking for a new turbo. Would like something drop in.

I have 680cc injectors, 255lph fuel pump, and a fpr sitting here waiting to go in.

Would an evo 16g be a good pairing for these? Should I go bigger?

 

[92Turbski]

Bummer. Go for the E3 (big) 16G with the 7cm turbine housing. @JusMX141 with the turbo hookup! It's a really nice street turbo that makes good torque and still spools up decent.

 

[Spleen8urLSX]

16g would be your best bet, however blown Chinese 16g knockoffs are a dime a dozen, could always rob the more open 7cm housing and adjustable gate actuator off one cheap for your 14b if desired. I think it’s been years since I’ve seen a 6cm turbine housing from a 14b that isn’t cracked.

 

[pauleyman]

Well... I was going through the exhaust manifold/turbo area. Getting things buttoned up. Had a few studs/threads and a heat wrapping that needed to be taken care of. While tapping the hot side of the turbo for a helicoil I found this...

View attachment 709269

Guess I'll be looking for a new turbo. Would like something drop in.

I have 680cc injectors, 255lph fuel pump, and a fpr sitting here waiting to go in.

Would an evo 16g be a good pairing for these? Should I go bigger?

If your concern is the gate offset hit the shaft with a hammer and knock the bushing back into place. The lever arm should be flush to the casting.

 

[curt-s]

Well... I was going through the exhaust manifold/turbo area. Getting things buttoned up. Had a few studs/threads and a heat wrapping that needed to be taken care of. While tapping the hot side of the turbo for a helicoil I found this...

View attachment 709269

Guess I'll be looking for a new turbo. Would like something drop in.

I have 680cc injectors, 255lph fuel pump, and a fpr sitting here waiting to go in.

Would an evo 16g be a good pairing for these? Should I go bigger?

The limiting factor is your injectors. They're a tad on the small side for pushing anything more than a e316g while maintaining sub 80 idc, so anything larger turbo wise would require bigger squirts.

It's anecdotal but I was pushing damn near 80% with 10.5-.8 at 23psi on a evo1 16g, 91oct and fic 750s.