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1992 Mitsubishi Montero Fuel Pump?

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Bigwill53

Probationary Member
16
0
Aug 16, 2024
Mobile, Alabama
Does my 1992 Mitsubishi Montero have a separate fuse for the fuel pump relay? (I've installed (1) new fuel pump (2) new fuel pump relay, and pump is still not working). HELP
 
My 90 Montero had a MPI relay much like the 1G DSM where the fuel pump relay had two inputs that could activate the relay, one for the starter and one for the ECU. Both were powered via the ignition switch (ST) position. The Ignition Switch was fed from 150A Sub Fusible Link #1 which in turn came off the 100A Main Fusible Link #1 on the battery next to it.

 
Thanks for the info. I'll check the 100 amp fuse link. So, I'm guessing that there is not a separate fuse for the fuel pump relay (??)
 
What started this diagnosis? You may have other problems that are not letting a fuel pump fire. Montero may have similar systems, cam angle sensor etc. You may also have a fuel pump check connector which can help rule out the relay and pump. Were not a montero site so you'll have to dig.
 
Thanks for the info. I'll check the 100 amp fuse link. So, I'm guessing that there is not a separate fuse for the fuel pump relay (??)
I didn't see one in my FSM for my Montero. As mentioned this site isn't the best resource for Montero's. I just happened to buy one before I got my DSM.
 
Sir, I have voltage at the fuel pump harness, but the pump is still not working. HELP
Well I would say you have a bad fuel pump or a bad connection between that point and the pump. You are checking voltage at the connection closest to the pump?
 
Yes, I'm checking voltage at the pump, at the harness. I've replaced (1) fuel pump (2) fuel pump relay (2) ECU (computer). Still I don't have spark at the plugs. HELP
 
Yes, I'm checking voltage at the pump, at the harness. I've replaced (1) fuel pump (2) fuel pump relay (2) ECU (computer). Still I don't have spark at the plugs. HELP

What problem are you trying to solve? The Fuel Pump or getting spark?

While they may be related they are kind of different directions when it comes to diagnosing the cause.
 
What problem are you trying to solve? The Fuel Pump or getting spark?

While they may be related they are kind of different directions when it comes to diagnosing the cause.
I'm trying to solve both. (??) It seems that I have no spark from the distributor cap + the fuel pump doesn't pump. (NOTE: I've put 12 volts directly to the fuel pump and it pumps). ??, Do you think my problem could be my ignition switch?
 
One at a time. You said you measured voltage at the pump. How? While cranking? What happened in the first place? Did the car die while driving? Give us some backstory

I don't know the controls on this motor but have you considered a broken timing belt? Does the car have a CAM sensor considering it has a distributor? It looks like it has a crank sensor.
 
One at a time. You said you measured voltage at the pump. How? While cranking? What happened in the first place? Did the car die while driving? Give us some backstory
OK. While driving along, the car just shut-off as if the key was turned off. I had just filled the tank and while driving off, no miss, no stutter, just clean off. So, I installed a new fuel pump thinking that the pump was bad. I checked the voltage at the pump's cable to see if voltage was there and I have 1.7 direct voltage. I've changed both the fuel pump relay and the ECU. I have no spark at the spark plug wires. (??) HELP
 
Unlikely it was fuel pump or relay. Residual fuel pressure wold've sputtered not shut clean off. Has to be in a control somewhere. Honestly I would start at timing belt. Make sure it didn't break. Do NOT assume its ok if you find it intact. They can strip teeth off also. Verify the mechanical marks. It's quick and easy to do. After that you probably need to look at controls.
 
Unlikely it was fuel pump or relay. Residual fuel pressure wold've sputtered not shut clean off. Has to be in a control somewhere. Honestly I would start at timing belt. Make sure it didn't break. Do NOT assume its ok if you find it intact. They can strip teeth off also. Verify the mechanical marks. It's quick and easy to do. After that you probably need to look at controls.
Steve, thanks but I have changed the timing belt. The old belt was very good only 8 months old. (??) Which control do you recommend that I start?? Also, is it possible to be the ignition switch??
 
Steve, thanks but I have changed the timing belt. The old belt was very good only 8 months old. (??) Which control do you recommend that I start?? Also, is it possible to be the ignition switch??
For my 1992 Mitsubishi Montero, I have a Mitsubishi Part number: 284L02901 for my Ignition Capacitor. Does anyone have an updated number? Or can I replace with a different capacitor?
 
Does this vehicle run POINTS and CONDENSOR or are you referring to a different part. Ignition capacitor is just a small capacitor that you would use with a point style ignition setup and they do go bad and the vehicle WILL quit immediately.
 
Does this vehicle run POINTS and CONDENSOR or are you referring to a different part. Ignition capacitor is just a small capacitor that you would use with a point style ignition setup and they do go bad and the vehicle WILL quit immediately.
This ignition capacitor has 2 prongs that plug into the distributor along with a separate condenser.

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The ORIGINAL Part number for the capacitor is: 284L02901. HELP
 

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Does this vehicle run POINTS and CONDENSOR or are you referring to a different part. Ignition capacitor is just a small capacitor that you would use with a point style ignition setup and they do go bad and the vehicle WILL quit immediately.
Apparently it's a point system. The crank position sensor is located: INSIDE the distributor. The car WILL NOT fire without this ignition capacitor. HELP.
 
Ref # 85812B - Noise filter, part number MB488821 (looks to be your two-connector piece)

Ref # 85811B - Noise condenser, part number MB435709 (I’d assume this is the other one you pictured, as it mounts using the same bolt as the two-connector piece)

Ref # 85811D - Noise condenser, part number MB363405

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No points. Looks like a single coil, distributor and rotor. Guessing it it's like the 4G37 SOHC distributor with it's embedded CAS or the 3000GT SOHC 6G72.

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No points. Looks like a single coil, distributor and rotor. Guessing it it's like the 4G37 SOHC distributor with it's embedded CAS or the 3000GT SOHC 6G72.

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Thanks Steve, this helps A lot!!
 
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