1991 Talon TSi AWD Disengage Problem!

[LordDigi]

The car was sitting for about 6 months, then I come back to move it and it wouldn't go into gear!! To make a LONG story short I put in a new Master, Slave, and had the line bled many times (many MANY times), welded the pedel assembly (pain in the ass!!), and still wouldn't go into gear ... clutch is not dissengaging.

I took it to a shop and they tore out the tranny 20 different times ... replacing the fork (twice), TOB, stock clutch (three times), stock pressure plate (twice), stock flywheel (twice ... and yes it was within spec) and it STILL would not dissengage!!

They ended up FINALY putting a .120 shim (the max they could) between the flywheel and crank and increased the slave rod length (a LOT)... The clutch dissengages now but the set up is putting pressure in the pressure plate so it slips with over 5psi of boost

I don't know what to do and I don't know how I'm going to fix it ... it's enough to make you !!

 

[BoostinAWD]

Extremely worn transmission? your input shaft may have some amount of in/out play.

I'm having the same problem, unfortunately. I will be swapping out my 190k tanny for an 85k soon.

 

[LordDigi]

There is no input shaft play and no wear that I know of ... and I'm sure the mechanic would have notified me of any wear like that.

The car was shifting fine prier to the 6 month sitting, then I come back to move it and it wouldn't go into gear ...

 

[LordDigi]

No one has ANY suggestions?! ... gggrrrr DSMTalk needs to go back up

 

[Waredtalontsi]

Have you tried to put a shim or 2 under the pivet ball. My car had a similar problem and i put 2 bolt washers as shims and it disengages good now.

 

[LordDigi]

Someone told the mechanic to do that, but he didn't like the idea and didn't do it ...

 

[4pistons]

Someone told the mechanic to do that, but he didn't like the idea and didn't do it ...

But he liked shimming the flywheel instead??!! If you have to shim a flywheel there are major problems. Shimming the pivot ball is easy and doesn't have the potential for a catastrophic failure.

I took it to a shop and they tore out the tranny 20 different times ...

What kind of shop? Find a DSM shop that knows these trannies and save yourself removing the trans 20 times.

Those are my only suggestions. If you've done everything you said you did PROPERLY then you need an expert with DSM experience to look at it.

Rick - '91 GSX

 

[LordDigi]

... Shimming the pivot ball is easy and doesn't have the potential for a catastrophic failure ...

Well, he thought of shimming it but he said there wasn't enough threds on it :thumbdown

 

[DSMRevolution]

Care for my opinion? I would find a different shop to work on your car! Honestly if they are throwing parts on your car without even knowing if it will fix the problem then that is a problem right there. You will be paying a lot of money for parts you don't even need. Also shimming the flywheel and crankshaft usually isn't the way to go. I don't know about that one...

What I would do is get everything set up so the car appears to be ready to drive. Get under the vehicle and look at the slave cylinder rod. The clutch fork should be sitting near exactly in the center of the opening in the transmission. If it is in one direction more then the other then you will want to shim the pivot ball that the clutch fork pivots on. RRE has more information on this at their site.

NOTE: When doing the above make sure that you don't have any of their weird shims hiding behind the flywheel or anywhere else. Also if your mechanic keeps telling you that there is not enough threads then he is either wrong or you should find another pivot ball. Do not settle on shimming the flywheel or whatever else he might suggest.

Now with your pivot ball shimmed properly and you staying under the vehicle (still staring at the slave cylinder rod) have somebody get in your car and press the clutch pedel to the floor. The rod should extend fully, but it should not make contact with the housing of the transmission. If it is making contact with the housing you might have the wrong TOB on or clutch assembly (or even if you say it is the right step flywheel that might be off also).

If you did all of the above and your cluch still does not disengauge I would recommend checking crankshaft end play with a dial indicator. If you can not find specs on crankshaft end play after doing research then PM me and I will get that information for you, not a problem. Also if you have to shim the pivot ball that is another good time to check crankshaft end play.

I hope that helps, let us know!

 

[LordDigi]

... The clutch fork should be sitting near exactly in the center of the opening in the transmission ...

The fork is centered ...

... The rod should extend fully, but it should not make contact with the housing of the transmission ...

It extends fully and does not contact the bellhousing ...

... If you did all of the above and your cluch still does not disengauge I would recommend checking crankshaft end play with a dial indicator ...

There is no end play in the crank. The head gasket is getting changed right now, I'll get the car back this coming weekend. I'll take it to the shop in Dallas so they can look at it but thanks for the help ... I'll keep you guys posted on what happens

 

[LordDigi]

Wow ... I forgot about this thread I guess I can give you guys an update now

Well, the car is sitting in a storage unit for the past year because I'm deployed to Iraq. I ended picking up a '93 GSX and had a few things done to it

The Talon will be sold once I get back from Iraq around christmas time. As you guys know of now the tranny needs a rebuild and a new clutch. Needs a turbo, seals are shot. And the caps are leaking in the ECU. The engine was rebuilt Wiseco/Eagle, Clevite 77, ARP blah blah ...

Keep an eye out for it in the classifieds, good project car