I don't feel much difference. Maybe a tiny bit heavier than the stock while driving if comparing to a healthy stock pump but feel slightly lighter at idle since this pump is not counting on engine speed. I can still move the steering wheel by a finger though. Comparing to No PS, the difference is like night and day.How does the electric power steering pump feel compared to the stock power steering system at idle, city driving, and on the freeway?
It's not the only thing but yes with aluminum rods, you can make the weight dramatically lighter, so you can safely go higher rpm than with steel rods, even with a stroker. I even lightened the rods and pistons more, and set the rod/piston/wrist pin combo 871.5g which is about 300g lighter than usual steel rod/forged piston/up grade wrist pin combo. And that 300g difference in each cylinder makes a huge difference in response.I assume this is for weight savings in the rotating assembly, and allows higher revs.
You can go whatever mods you want.What other mods are best to go with a build like that?
Not really since the benefit is not only high rev. Even with stock cams, aluminum rod is beneficial if it suits with your use of car, doesn't matter even if the power band is low. Revving faster is one of the biggest benefit from aluminum rods. Better response, turbo spool faster etc.I imagine simply using aluminum rods on an otherwise stock motor wouldn't be worth the expense. Cam seems like a natural paring, since the benefit is the ability to rev higher, you'd want the power band to also skew higher.
Nowadays, most of new parts would come being balanced by manufacturers, so you can actually run without balancing but extra rotating assembly balancing is always beneficial. I use a Fluidampr and the pistons are custom made since there is no off-the-shelf kit for 2.2 long aluminum rod. I usually ask a machine shop to balance the crank and flywheel/clutch if necessary, and balance rods/pistons by myself.What about the balance of the rotating assembly? Anything special with the crank or harmonic balancer? Are you using cast or forged pistons?
After I broke the 3 bolt, I was running the 4 bolt. But now I have the driveshaft shop axels.Are you 4 bolt rear now?
I suck at shifting with clutch but I don't use the clutch anymore with a dogbox while shifting, so it looks I am shifting quicker now hahah.Haha no way. I don’t believe you after seeing that launch.
Whoa hold up. How did you get the oil pickup support mount mounted to the main stud? I thought there wasnt enough thread for the nut to thread on completely?6 Bolt 2.2L Aluminum Long Rod Stroker (4G63, 94mm stroke crank w/ 156mm Rods).
I sometimes see in some DSM groups that somebody asks how to build a aluminum rod engine, and most of time some people start to say "No you can't do that by yourself. You have to ask a machine shop". And start to ridicule the questioner. Yeah ask a machine shop may be better, but it would cost more and it doesn't have to. Definitely you can do that at home, if it's a 88mm stroke 2.0, it wouldn't be that difficult. A stroker would be a bit different story, it would require more work and more things to pay attention than a 88mm stroke 2.0L. But still it can be done at home. Of course at least you have to be capable to properly build a 4g63 by yourself though.
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There are enough threads left for the nut. I always do this on my builds. You just need to enlarge the hole on the oil pickup bracket.Whoa hold up. How did you get the oil pickup support mount mounted to the main stud? I thought there wasnt enough thread for the nut to thread on completely?
Interesting. Ive enlarged the hole on mine already. Did you set the studs 15mm out passed the girdle? Maybe I forgot to do that with mine when I test fitted it.There are enough threads left for the nut. I always do this on my builds. You just need to enlarge the hole on the oil pickup bracket.