The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

16g swap 2psi boost? Check it out please

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

razrman8

10+ Year Contributor
1,435
25
Jul 7, 2010
Troy, Missouri
Installed my EvoIII 16g today.. Took it out for a test drive and I seem to be only building 2psi boost. Everything is stock except for my Injen intake and bov. Stock exhaust, injectors, all that. I swapped the turbo from a t-25 because I could only build 7psi with it. Took it off and found a crack that I didnt know if it would be a problem at all. Now after swapping I am only getting 2psi. So I'm not sure if whatever my problem is has magnified because of the 16g or what. I also notice that I could hear my t-25 spooling up through the intake a lot louder. The 16g I can't. Probably cause I am builing only 2 psi. What do you guys think.

**BLT HAS BEEN PERFORMED DIRECTLY AFTER SWAP
-Notice a slight his from throttle body shaft seal
 
I would tune it. I threw a 16g on my little bros old gst and it needed a tune period. How is yor acceleration? Any cutouts or anything?

Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G using Tapatalk
 
I would tune it. I threw a 16g on my little bros old gst and it needed a tune period. How is yor acceleration? Any cutouts or anything?

Sent from my T-Mobile myTouch 3G using Tapatalk

No cut outs nothing. Just slow. Tune is a thought but the t25 didn't boost all the way(7psi) now the 16g hits 2 and probability of them being bad I doubt. So whatever is happening, I think, is happening using both. But did your brothers boost past 2 pounds though.
 
A "tune" isn't going to help him at all.

OP- check for pre-turbine exhaust leaks, and check your wastegate. Make sure the the actuator arm is attached to the flapper, and that it seals properly.

Does the wategate have an adjustable actuator arm?
 
Will if you don't have a boost controller you should check the wastegate of the 16g. My buddy just did a swap from t small to 16g. All is fine for him. Boost is at 7 though. Not sure if that is normal. Kinda dumb but I forgot the wastegate pressure for the 16g. I know the t small is rated at 10 psi.

Make sure you don't have the pressure and wastegate lines switched around! Reason I stated that is because when I forgot which way the hoses go for my boost controller I only got 2psi max. I switched it then wa la. It boost normal again.
 
A "tune" isn't going to help him at all.

OP- check for pre-turbine exhaust leaks, and check your wastegate. Make sure the the actuator arm is attached to the flapper, and that it seals properly.

Does the wategate have an adjustable actuator arm?

I checked for pre-turbine cracks and such before I put it on. I thoroughly checked manifold.thinking it may have been a contributing factor. I read about the actuator ARM before I posted. It checks out. And no, no adjustable arm on actuator arm.
 
You need to fix your leaks. Pressure test to 20 psi and use a spray bottle of soapy water to look for bubbles. Do you feel any exhaust blowing past the manifold gasket or turbo-to-manifold gasket? Do you see any exhaust soot pre turbo?
 
Will if you don't have a boost controller you should check the wastegate of the 16g. My buddy just did a swap from t small to 16g. All is fine for him. Boost is at 7 though. Not sure if that is normal. Kinda dumb but I forgot the wastegate pressure for the 16g. I know the t small is rated at 10 psi.

Make sure you don't have the pressure and wastegate lines switched around! Reason I stated that is because when I forgot which way the hoses go for my boost controller I only got 2psi max. I switched it then wa la. It boost normal again.

Well I'm not running a boost controller.

You need to fix your leaks. Pressure test to 20 psi and use a spray bottle of soapy water to look for bubbles. Do you feel any exhaust blowing past the manifold gasket or turbo-to-manifold gasket? Do you see any exhaust soot pre turbo?

Okay. No. I am Not feeling any exhaust blowing through. Nor do I see.

I would check the wastegate flapper door! Try taking the arm off the flapper door and see if it will close all the way!

I checked the wastegate flapped when I had it off because the o2 housing was off. I didn't take the arm off because it seemed as if there is no problem closing. And its stiff way stiffer than t25
 
Well, after sitting back for AWHILE... I think I have come to something. There are only a couple things that can control how much boost I am getting. Exhaust and wasteagte. And theres only a cople things that control me not getting boost generally: exhaust leak, boost leak, open wastegate. Boost and exhaust leak check out. Which only leads me to a wastegate problem. My t-25 and my EvoIII16g BOTH werent boosting like they should have. So I doubt both are bad. Both being internally wastegated, the only thing controlling a wastegate would be my stock boost control solenoid. I swapped boost control solenoids and I am still having boosting problems. Which makes me think that someway that boost control solenoid is getting a bad signal possibly and allowing my wastgate to be open instead of closed, thus me not being able to boost any higher than I am. So I am thinking that if I ran a manual boost controller and completely bypassed my boost control solenoid, I might not have a problem. Does this make any sense?
 
No, a bad BCS wouldn't cause this issue u less there was a major hole in it. The wastegate is just a spring and a diaphragm, very simple. You WILL make the minimum spring pressure until the actuator will push the rod to open the wastegate.

You either have more boost leaks (retest like how I described and fix all of your leaks), a pre turbo exhaust leak and lastly an open wastegate.
 
No, a bad BCS wouldn't cause this issue u less there was a major hole in it. The wastegate is just a spring and a diaphragm, very simple. You WILL make the minimum spring pressure until the actuator will push the rod to open the wastegate.

You either have more boost leaks (retest like how I described and fix all of your leaks), a pre turbo exhaust leak and lastly an open wastegate.

What exaactly will a bad BCS do then. It controls boost somehow correct? Theres no way that 2 of the turbos I have had on there BOTH have open wastegates. I just could not see it.

Stranger things have happened..
 
try plumbing your wastegate straight to a good boost source (bypassing the bcs). with it being a new turbo, I can't see it being a wastegate problem.

are you throwing any CELs?
 
The BCS is just a solenoid. An electric signal reaches it and tells it to open a valve, that's it. Open and close. If it was stuck open then boost would be limited to your wastegate spring pressure. It it was stuck closed (IIRC the outlet on the solenoid goes to the actuator nipple) no pressurized air would reach the actuator to open the wastegate causing infinite boost.

I doubt you have a stuck flapper on a new turbo so that leave preturbo exhaust leaks and aging, boost leaks you didn't find. Even a leak at the TB like you said you have will cause issues. You need to fix you leaks before you do any thing else to be honest.

I could barely build 10psi with my HX40 due to a leak.
 
The BCS is just a solenoid. An electric signal reaches it and tells it to open a valve, that's it. Open and close. If it was stuck open then boost would be limited to your wastegate spring pressure. It it was stuck closed (IIRC the outlet on the solenoid goes to the actuator nipple) no pressurized air would reach the actuator to open the wastegate causing infinite boost.

I doubt you have a stuck flapper on a new turbo so that leave preturbo exhaust leaks and aging, boost leaks you didn't find. Even a leak at the TB like you said you have will cause issues. You need to fix you leaks before you do any thing else to be honest.

I could barely build 10psi with my HX40 due to a leak.

I see what your saying now.

Here is another thing this is how my BCS lines are going.
**Bottom nipple of the BCS has a line that runs to my J-Pipe and that line is T'd off and the line coming off the T goes to my wastegate.
**Top nipple's hose goes to the intake
Does this sound correct

If the rod on the waste gate is to long, then it would keep the flapper door open and not allowing the door to seal all the way please check this it has happened to me before!

It was sealing when I had the turbo off and was staring down at the flapper because the 02 housing was off. And I'm having the same problems with both turbo's. The t-25 started doing it and now the 16g is. I doubted the t-25 was good. But when I put the 16g on, It confirmed that I wasn't having a mechanical problem with the turbo or wastegate
 
You can just run a hose straight from the j-pipe to the actuator.
 
Correct, the BCS acts very similar to an electronic boost controller. It's based off the ecu for it's operation and will slightly raise and lower the amount of pressure the turbo can build by either opening or closing the wastegate sooner or later.

Keep the BCS plugged in as it will throw a CEL when unplugged IIRC. No need to cap off the nipples on it either.
 
Ahh I see. Okay then. Answer me this sir. Will you EVER have a completely tight system. I mean, if you pressurize the system, the air bleeds air off correct? Where does the pressure go? Where is it venting at. It has to vent somewhere if it bleeds off. Then how would you, for lack of a better term, judge a good system. By the amount of time it takes to bleed off.?
 
Basically yes. You should be able to hold pressed for a significant amount of time depending on how good of a seal your internals hold. The optimum way to test is to have both intake and exhaust valves closed.
 
Ahh I see. Okay then. Answer me this sir. Will you EVER have a completely tight system. I mean, if you pressurize the system, the air bleeds air off correct? Where does the pressure go? Where is it venting at. It has to vent somewhere if it bleeds off. Then how would you, for lack of a better term, judge a good system. By the amount of time it takes to bleed off.?


yes it would be by the amount of time it takes for the system tested. Its very similar to an air compressor and air lines.

I dont know that you will ever have a "completely tight system".

If everything on the outside of the motor is sealed and not leaking, intercooler, all piping, throttle body etc. then it is a possibility that there is a problem with piston rings and you may want to do a compression test just to be sure.

Thats just my 2cents

Basically yes. You should be able to hold pressed for a significant amount of time depending on how good of a seal your internals hold. The optimum way to test is to have both intake and exhaust valves closed.

What he said :thumb:
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 4G63 3 inch Magnaflow SS high flow cat
    3 inch Magnaflow stainless cat. High flow. 18.25 inches. Flange holes are 4 1/8 center. Has...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • For sale 4G63 Forge Motorsports BOV
    Original Forge Motorsports bov. Adjustable with over 80 clicks on the dial. Nice to use for...
    • Galant665
    • Updated:
  • Wanted 1g 1991 Black Cherry Eagle Talon
    5-speed
    • bamatalon
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Misc Left Over Parts
    Hello, I have a few left over parts for sale, these do not include shipping, please pm me for a...
    • r3dmak
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc for 4G63 DSM/EVO
    I have a set of Alpha Injection Clinic 2200cc high z injectors for DSM/EVO. I am stepping up to...
    • spoolinpos
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top