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ECMlink 16g @ 410hp

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OMG how did you not blow this thing up!?!?!

I never do this for random people but try this tune out for size and hopefully you can save your engine, Took me about 2 minutes and I only fixed the important stuff.. I don't of course accept any responsibility.
 

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Woah. Didn't see he was running that much timing! (Only saw this on my phone) Yeah knock sensors and retard can be life savers.

X2 on the file name. Lol!
 
In a log I have with an evo316g, I've gotten readings of 400 to 450hp. Car dynoed 343.

My guess is you don't have the Horsepower properties setup in link. It won't read right (i.e. close) unless your weight and drivetrain numbers are setup.


OMG how did you not blow this thing up!?!?!

I never do this for random people but try this tune out for size and hopefully you can save your engine, Took me about 2 minutes and I only fixed the important stuff.. I don't of course accept any responsibility.

Looks like a quick fix that should at least keep you out of knock. You can better that (at least the DA maps) by using the Evo mod1 tables I linked to above. They'll smooth out the transition in your fuel table as well as give you a decent starting point for a timing table.

As John has nicely done for you, the MAF Comp sliders are now smoothed out. However, they'll need to be evaluated and probably fine tuned once you get your wideband logged.
 
OMG how did you not blow this thing up!?!?!

Gotta love the factory 1g timing map. 24 degrees up top...yeah someone was on crack at mitsubishi motors.

You can better that (at least the DA maps) by using the Evo mod1 tables I linked to above.

+1 The factory 2g map is also a decent, safe and effective timing map.
 
My guess is you don't have the Horsepower properties setup in link. It won't read right (i.e. close) unless your weight and drivetrain numbers are .

More than likely. I've never been concerned with it so haven't messed with at settings. More or less just stating how numbers can be deceiving. :).

edit: Got the laptop out, and yup.. the default is set to 3400lbs. Dropped its mass down to 3200, and it's much closer to the actual dyno numbers.
 
I've always gotten close to 10whp per lb/min, on E85. On lower boost, I have seen closer to 11. This is going from dyno numbers and fuel consumption/afr. At higher boost/cylinder loadings it falls off because of increased pumping losses and side loading the piston, also the heat rejection goes thru the roof!

Gotta love the factory 1g timing map. 24 degrees up top...yeah someone was on crack at mitsubishi motors.

I've run more than that at 35psi. Timing requirements are a very dynamic thing, many many other things affect it. Just look at what the laminar flame speed of a fuel changes with......
 
I've always gotten close to 10whp per lb/min, on E85. On lower boost, I have seen closer to 11. This is going from dyno numbers and fuel consumption/afr. At higher boost/cylinder loadings it falls off because of increased pumping losses and side loading the piston, also the heat rejection goes thru the roof!



I've run more than that at 35psi. Timing requirements are a very dynamic thing, many many other things affect it. Just look at what the laminar flame speed of a fuel changes with......

Sounds about right, for casual conversation I will use 12-13hp per lb/min mass flow with E85/E98 assuming an efficient head and a tune loaded for bear.

Precisely why I specified which fuel I correlate that number with Figure 8-10hp per pound on Gas at the crank.
 
I've always gotten close to 10whp per lb/min, on E85. On lower boost, I have seen closer to 11.

Sounds about right, for casual conversation I will use 12-13hp per lb/min mass flow with E85/E98 assuming an efficient head and a tune loaded for bear.

Precisely why I specified which fuel I correlate that number with Figure 8-10hp per pound on Gas at the crank.

Yes, but you're both also much more experienced tuners than the OP. Your results aren't what anyone new to tuning should expect to see. Especially running incorrect timing advance. He's probably somewhere in the range of 8-9 whp per lb/min (328-369whp @ 41lbs/min).
 
On a side note, I've seen my car go the fastest showing 3-4 cts of knock, and showing light peppering on plugs.

Doesn't that just mean you were running to much timing to begin with and the pepper on the plugs was from the initial knock?

The dyno is a cool tool. Tune a car without a knock sensor just looking at torque increase per RPM
 
Doesn't that just mean you were running to much timing to begin with and the pepper on the plugs was from the initial knock?

The dyno is a cool tool. Tune a car without a knock sensor just looking at torque increase per RPM

No, usually I change plugs between passes, I just turned the knock sensor off and went fast LOL. The plugs weren't getting beat up, or anything. But then again, where do you draw the line between detonation, and extremely aggressive combustion. I've read papers that say the highest efficiency occurs under light detonation.
 
I really hate bench racing and this just seems like the whole thread is on about...

But,
Looking at that log assuming it's on flat ground with the way things are setup.
Best guestimate Looks like about 275hp maybe 250 tq IMHO

Being generous assuming things are dialed in better than they look or are setup maybe 315hp IMHO

In the end it's really pointless

I could tell the op to load up a couple files and do a pull and I'm sure everyones Estimates would fly this or that way. Airflow numbers really don't mean $hit even on a well setup cars in link they can be here or there.

You want to make some comparisons OP,
Keep track of something like your 70-90 times while making adjustments for Improvements and ignore most of the numbers in link as far as looking for power numbers.
 
Keep track of something like your 70-90 times while making adjustments for Improvements and ignore most of the numbers in link as far as looking for power numbers.

I agree. The only time I look at airflow numbers is to make sure all my variables makes sense. I then go to my 3rd gear pull road (long flat road in the middle of no where) and do three 2000-7,000 pulls in the same direction. I then check my 70-90 times and average them. That's my dyno.
 
Keep track of something like your 70-90 times while making adjustments for Improvements and ignore most of the numbers in link as far as looking for power numbers.

I agree. The only time I look at airflow numbers is to make sure all my variables makes sense. I then go to my 3rd gear pull road (long flat road in the middle of no where) and do three 2000-7,000 pulls in the same direction. I then check my 70-90 times and average them. That's my dyno.

Yup:
If you know your "race weight" tire size, gear ratios and a bit of basic physics involving force required to accelerate a given mass (taking liberties with parasitic losses) you can get an idea of how much you're actually making.

Its why you will hear that trap speed v. weight is a better indicator than dyno sheets.

I find airflow numbers useful though, at least when used in full context. Just my opinion. Much in the way IQ is relevant when properly used as a concept.. a measure of potential when taken accurately. Not a guarantee. Granted mass airflow is a more tangible quantification.
 
Well to put things in a different perspective, my car is running with and beating low 12sec cars.

I'm also at 2ft above sea level and on long flat road in the middle of nowhere.

You guys say this tune is going to blow up my car? I've run this tune or something similar for over 1.5yrs now. The tune I was using before was worse...

I am assuming my 410hp is to the crank. I know damn well I'm not making that to the wheels.

My mass air flow hrz shows over 3000 so I don't know what you guys are looking for other than that.

So, you guys see most of my mods in my profile. You see what I have. My o2 is ported already. That knock you see in my log is really all I get.

I have other logs that I pulled on the same day where I have the 70-90 pull. I did a 1st gear take off, 2nd gear pull and shift to 3rd at 7500 and then wind out 3rd. I did other changes since then obviously but if you guys want I can try and grab that.

I'm beating up on modified c5 and c6 corvette Z06s, tweaked out mustangs and new camaro SS and the 5.0 Mustang GTs...

What am I doing wrong and how can my estimation be that far off when I'm running with and beating 400hp cars?

Also, MOST of you guys are awesome with your comments, suggestions, and information and I'm super thankful.

A few of you are just dicks. Keep that to yourself please.
 
I'd love to see a video of you beating up on a c6Z...just saying, with a Jesus driver, 10's are touchable. You are being very lofty with your claims, and from what it looks like, a lot of people are trying to help.
 
Just a few things,

Knock on stock pistons will break ring lands off. I don't know how much it takes, but it does happen. The convention is on a stock motor, do not let it knock. Granted, it's the same for all engines. But I suppose what is considered knock changes.... I mean a random count here and there will probably never be a problem, but if it's consistently hitting multiple counts during a pull, I'd be taking some timing out.

I have let mine knock some, but I'm looking for an on the edge tune.

Finally, just because you beat those cars doesn't mean dick. Obviously those are good running cars, but they are not low 12's cars unless they have a good driver and a prepped surface. That is the beauty of our cars, they make good use of the power in marginal conditions, until you make big power.

I'd love to see a video of you beating up on a c6Z...just saying, with a Jesus driver, 10's are touchable. You are being very lofty with your claims, and from what it looks like, a lot of people are trying to help.

I've only seen one run 10's and it was worked on pretty heavily.
 
according to my other log, 70-90 time is 1.2 seconds.

Actually it isn't a different log, it's the one I already posted.

I was unaware that a mildly modified c6z06 ran 10s, never said I ran 10s...

Anyway, I'm looking at trying to find speed density in my area and I'll work on getting that knock out. Typically when I see knock I let off. I do not run always with knock.
 
In the end if you want to say the Car has X power put it on a Dyno.

But, The car is not making 400 though. Sorry...
Being your racing car what is your ET and trap? in the 1/8 or 1/4 mile :confused:

WTF Also You are NOT running a 1.2 actualy about twice that...

You cut a 2.4 second 70-90 in the log. Which would in most cases put you around 12.5 ish @ 100-110 with a good driver on a decent setup car.
Right on par to the power I was saying and what I seen in the log being strait forward. ;)
HERE take a look at cars running those times and find one with a similar setup and I'm sure they if have a dyno's sheet it will be on par to what I said.

Honestly I'm not sure what the point of this thread is at this point? You didn't exactly start this thread off with a question?

Don't take offence here... But, this is just the way it is... .
 
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