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14b turb not hitting hard

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jhowell34

Probationary Member
21
0
Sep 12, 2007
memphis, Tennessee
So my turbo spools ok but takes over 4000 rpms to really feel it. Mods are 2.5 dp meagan exhaust and hard pipes with greddy bov. Checked timing looks to be at 10 and not 5 degrees does that make a difference performance wise?
 
No boost leaks and im pulling over 20in of vaccumm at idle :) its weird too if i go 100percent throttle it doesnt really pull and sounds like a massive exhaust leak almost but if i slowly work in the throttle it pulls good
 
Vacuum and boost are not the same. And if it sounds like you have an exhaust leak... You probably have an exhaust leak.
 
You can put some seafoam in the hoses that go to the throttle body and if there is a leak in your exhaust you will know. It's going to smoke pretty bad. You might need someone to hold the throttle because the idle is going to drop when it takes in the seafoam.
 
You can seafoam it by itself. But a small exhaust leak won't cause a huge problem. It just sounds like you were expecting too much from your car? I expected wayyy too much from my 16g before I tuned it.. I just slapped in a 16g and expected to go fast. I then got safc2 and some injectors and BAM it slams you like taking off in a plane.
 
I wouldn't be surprised if the wastegate flapper wasn't sealing. I've seen a lot of those things melt.
 
No boost leaks and im pulling over 20in of vaccumm at idle :) its weird too if i go 100percent throttle it doesnt really pull and sounds like a massive exhaust leak almost but if i slowly work in the throttle it pulls good

If you can roll in to the throttle and have the car pull good, vs stabbing it, it usually means the ECU is detecting enough knock to pull timing. This can be caused by many things, but as others have said a BLT is 1st on the list. The overly rich condition caused by a boost leak can definitely cause enough knock to make the car feel just as you describe. The car will feel better rolling in to the throttle because the initial squirt of fuel when stabbing the throttle isnt enough to cause knock and make the ecu continue to pull timing beauce of the rich condition caused by a boost leak. When you do your BLT remember to go at least 10 pounds beyond your set boost pressure (IE MBC @ 14 psi + 10psi = 24 psi BLT)

Let us know what you find.
 
thanks guys ill update in a day or two and yes i think its pulling timing and yea i did expect too nuch from from the 14b ha and im running 16-17psi with stock fuel pump/wiring so doing the rewire this weekend and getting evo injectors then im going to find a sarfc

its crazy its like if i roll into the throttle and get to about 4500+rpm and go full throttle itll pull good and sometimes itll buck ha crazy dsms and im also a dodge tech just new to the dsm world
 
thanks guys ill update in a day or two and yes i think its pulling timing and yea i did expect too nuch from from the 14b ha and im running 16-17psi with stock fuel pump/wiring so doing the rewire this weekend and getting evo injectors then im going to find a sarfc

its crazy its like if i roll into the throttle and get to about 4500+rpm and go full throttle itll pull good and sometimes itll buck ha crazy dsms and im also a dodge tech just new to the dsm world

That's entirely too much boost on a stock fuel pump. With my stock pump, at 12 psi the car begins to start losing fuel pressure around 5200 rpm, and my afr's are starting to climb up into the 12's before 6k. You need a bigger fuel pump.
 
If you hit 4k rpm on a 14b and are wondering where your power is.There is something definatly wrong.

Boost leaks, exhaust leaks like the manifold being cracked, or your gaskets aren't sealing and your leaking exhaust pre turbo. Or after turbo,being a boost leak etc.
 
yea bud its building boost before 4k but doesnt really kick in til4k-4500 and also just found my ground wire for o2 sensor broken on engine harness side bet thats not helping at all no o2 readings but no check engine light wth

fixed now i just got fix the fuel cut at 17psi plus in 3rd gear at like 6000rpms but runs soo much better fixed a leak and fixed o2 sensor wiring :)
 
yea bud its building boost before 4k but doesnt really kick in til4k-4500 and also just found my ground wire for o2 sensor broken on engine harness side bet thats not helping at all no o2 readings but no check engine light wth

fixed now i just got fix the fuel cut at 17psi plus in 3rd gear at like 6000rpms but runs soo much better (they always run best before they let loose)fixed a leak and fixed o2 sensor wiring :)

Did you not see where I said that 12 psi is at the limit of the stock fuel pump? If you keep the boost at 17# you'll have a bunch more problems than the car not building boost before 4000 rpm.
 
I wouldn't be surprised if the wastegate flapper wasn't sealing. I've seen a lot of those things melt.

My ole 14g did the same thing - 14g exhaust housing are made of cheap metal and crack around the waste gate hole.
Easiest thing to try - put a couple of washers under the waste gate actuator to pull it tighter. It just might help seal that exhaust leak......
 
well its a 2g mani guys thanks jo n sorry didnt know haha so if i do a rewire can i run 17psi ? from what ive read it should

i have no mbc and its stock turbo with 2.5dp 2.5to 3in meagan exhaust, hard pipes for stock smic and bov i wonder why its past 12-14 psi

and looks like the previos owner removed the bcs thats it
 
well its a 2g mani guys thanks jo n sorry didnt know haha so if i do a rewire can i run 17psi ? from what ive read it should

i have no mbc and its stock turbo with 2.5dp 2.5to 3in meagan exhaust, hard pipes for stock smic and bov i wonder why its past 12-14 psi

and looks like the previos owner removed the bcs thats it

Stock injectors are fine, stock pump isn't. You need at least a 190lph pump.
 
Finyally set base timing at 5 it was on 15 from previous owner

Switched wastegates with a small 16g turbospools way fasterand car runs aweswome
 
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