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14b not hitting full boost?

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rob1621

15+ Year Contributor
387
0
Jan 4, 2007
Wisconsin Dells, Wisconsin
So i finaly get my 14b in all settled in and ready to go at 4am. I take it fora spin, and much to my surprise, it barley pulls. I mean my t25 felt way faster. Also on my stock boost gauge (i know its crap) the 14b only makes it 3/4 boost. Its just aboove the 3rd line on the turbo. Why is this? Thanks in advance.
 
1. Im on it. but it will take at least a week to two weeks.

2. It is connected. I can hear it flutter when i release at low boost.

3. Its hard for me to believe it would be couplers, because i did them as tight as i could.


I dont know guys, i did this whole thing pretty straight forward. I dont know if it helps, but my t25 was also louder spool and louder bov.
 
2. It is connected. I can hear it flutter when i release at low boost.

I dont know guys, i did this whole thing pretty straight forward. I dont know if it helps, but my t25 was also louder spool and louder bov.
It sounds like it's not building boost at all. That would explain the lack of spool and BOV noise. The most common way for an internally gated turbo to not build any boost would be if the wastegate flapper was freely blowing open. That happens when the actuator's arm becomes disconnected from the flapper arm. You'll need to actually pop the hood and visually inspect to see if it's connected or not. You won't be able to "hear it flutter" no matter if it's connected or not. The flutter you hear is the BOV attempting to open when your intake plenum sees vacuum. But there's not enough positive pressure in the charge pipes to assist the BOV, so it's flutters open a close a very small amount a few times.

Visually check the actuator arm.
 
Well it is making bost, i hear it spool and blow off.

The acctuator arm is connected.


I dont know if is significant but, i could get my O2 sensor out, so i snipped the wires then when it was being put back together i just connected them.
-Would it matter if the 2 black wires where connected to the opposite wire?
 
Well it is making bost, i hear it spool and blow off.

The acctuator arm is connected.


I dont know if is significant but, i could get my O2 sensor out, so i snipped the wires then when it was being put back together i just connected them.
-Would it matter if the 2 black wires where connected to the opposite wire?

You would be throwing a code if the O2 sensor was incorrectly hooked up. You can always verify it by checking it on a logger.
Is the wastegate flapper completely closing? Is there tension on the arm? What are you using to control boost? If it is a MBC did you possibly knock the adjustment loose, setting it lower?
 
Well i had a CEL before so i wouldnt know if i got a code or not. Im going to autozone to check my CEL tonight so ill let ou guys know.

The wastegate acc. is stock, never changed. How would it just get open?

Im not using anything to control boost right now. Maybe ill just temp install one just to see what psi im running. What should a 2g 14b be running?
 
Definitely get the code ran. As for the wastegate arm, I meant to make sure that it is hooked up properly. Try manually pulling the arm, it should be hard to do. Make sure that the little flapper that connects on the arm is completely opening and closing all the way. The next 3 things you need to buy are a boost gauge, a boost controller, and a logger. If you are still running the stock BCS unmodified, the boost you are running seems to vary with every car. Somewhere between 8-12 psi.
 
Alright ill check the wasegate arm.

-The guy who sold me the turbo threw in a new acc. but it didnt line up right, hte arm was straight and didnt have a bend in it.
 
What condition was the turbo in (CHRA specifically, as in shaft play) when you bought it? Or did you even bother to check?
 
I dont know if is significant but, i could get my O2 sensor out, so i snipped the wires then when it was being put back together i just connected them.
-Would it matter if the 2 black wires where connected to the opposite wire?

Yes it would definitely matter, it would make you run pig rich and cause your car to feel like a dog.
 
well got my CEL it all checks out ok.

As for my wires being messed up and running rich, my car runs fine it all seems ok, just not boosting all the way...
 
1. Im on it. but it will take at least a week to two weeks.

2. It is connected. I can hear it flutter when i release at low boost.

3. Its hard for me to believe it would be couplers, because i did them as tight as i could.


I dont know guys, i did this whole thing pretty straight forward. I dont know if it helps, but my t25 was also louder spool and louder bov.

t25 spool faster than a 14b, but check for intercooler leaks, also is your bov vented to the atmosphere? Or is it stock , because the stock one leaks out past 15psi i think. If your running off the stock boost control sealonid it should be 10psi i believe. CEL might be thrown if you vent your bov, some throw it some don't my old 2g didn't throw one.
 
i have an EVO MR BOV.

The turbo spools pretty slow though.

The CEL was for like this coolant thing, but i had it before and it never effected performance. I got a new sensor thing for it, i forget what its called, its right next to the motor to the left.
 
Time to do a boost leak test/exhaust leak test. Take off your manifold heatshield and run seafoam through the intake mani, it will let you know if you have a pre-turbo exhaust leak.

Although with it being as slow as you say it is you would probably hear the exhaust leak with the car running at idle, so I would boost leak test it first.
 
From what ive read, doing seafoam requires you to change your oil within 500 miles of doing it. Is it true? Because i just did an oil change.

Ill check out my exhaust, because its been sounding a tiny bit louder but not a sound like an exhaust leak.

anyone have a link to a 'how to: simple boost leak test?'
 
From what ive read, doing seafoam requires you to change your oil within 500 miles of doing it. Is it true? Because i just did an oil change.

Ill check out my exhaust, because its been sounding a tiny bit louder but not a sound like an exhaust leak.

Yes, you will want to change your oil after running Seafoam through the engine. You cand just do this though if you dont want to seafoam it. Take your heat shield off, start your car, and place your hand around the exhaust manifold to feel any leaks. Check for cracks in the manifold, leaks where the manifold connects to the head, as well as leaks where the manifold connects to the turbo. Also check the bolts that bolt the manifold down to ensure that you are not missing any, and that they are not loose. The same applies to the o2 housing. For the rest of the exhaust, just have a friend block the mufler tip off with something, while you get underneath and listen/ feel for leaks.
 
i have an EVO MR BOV.

The turbo spools pretty slow though.

The CEL was for like this coolant thing, but i had it before and it never effected performance. I got a new sensor thing for it, i forget what its called, its right next to the motor to the left.
Are you recirculating it? If not, do so ASAP.

What was the specific cel code? Are you talking about the collant overflow reservoir?
 
Well i never took of my manifold from the head when i did the swap.

ill check exhaust after work.

i am recirculating it.

Dont know the specific code. And no the the other part.
 
Well i never took of my manifold from the head when i did the swap.

There can still be leaks though, you should still check it. Since you just installed a turbo, check where the turbo connects to the manifold. Did you reuse the gasket?
 
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