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14b Parts Check

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DurangoGS-T

15+ Year Contributor
69
0
Jul 6, 2004
Wichita, Kansas
alright i just wanna make sure i have all the parts i need for this install. heres what i have so far:

14b turbo
j - pipe
j - pipe/turbo gasket
oil feed line

then i can reuse

turbo/o2 housing gasket
o2 housing/downpipe gasket
t25 water lines
t25 oil return line (file it)

and i need

exhaust manifold/turbo gasket
the long bolt (stud?) for exhaust manifold/turbo
any bolts i break

and heres some stuff i'm not sure exactly what i need (but have heard i need em)

banjo bolts
copper crush washers
1g oil return tube gaskets (here - http://www.phobia.net/~dsm4sale/partslist.txt
the guy says to use "The Right Stuff" instead...what's that?

also i have some pb blaster i'm gonna start spraying on tonight (gonna do it in about a week) so (hopefully) i don't break any or as many bolts.

what bolts am i more prone to breaking? should i go buy all the bolts or something like a 'hardware kit' that i saw at RRE (or somewhere...i don't remember)? also, do i get the banjo bolts at the dealership? what's the story on the 1g oil return tube gaskets and "The Right Stuff"? is there anything else i should get (kind of like the pb blaster) to make the process go more smoothly?

lastly, does the t25 oil feed line come from the filter housing or the head? thanks...i wanna make sure i'm prepared so it doesn't take forever when i try to actually do the install.
 
If anybody has an anwer to this, please give us your .02. I am doing the exact same thing at the moment and I'm trying to get a checklist of what I'll need.
 
DurangoGS-T said:
alright i just wanna make sure i have all the parts i need for this install. heres what i have so far:

14b turbo
j - pipe
j - pipe/turbo gasket
oil feed line

then i can reuse

turbo/o2 housing gasket
o2 housing/downpipe gasket
t25 water lines
t25 oil return line (file it)

and i need

exhaust manifold/turbo gasket
the long bolt (stud?) for exhaust manifold/turbo
any bolts i break]

>Is your oil feed line a stainless steel braided or a stock 1g line? Did it come with everything else such as bolts or washers?

>You can use a dremel to file your oil return line. Your gonna need to reuse those gaskets also.

>One important thing you need, is a RTV High Temperature Silicone Gasket Maker. Its $3-4
bux at your local autozone or pepboys or wherever. You put a nice abundent layer (not too much so it'll bulge everwhere) of this on just about every gasket your gonna need, or reuse.

>Looks good. If you do it right, you wont break any bolts or studs. Make sure you have a breaker bar incase, or you might end up breaking your tools. Dont forget a sturdy torque wrench.

DurangoGS-T said:
and heres some stuff i'm not sure exactly what i need (but have heard i need em)

banjo bolts
copper crush washers
1g oil return tube gaskets (here - http://www.phobia.net/~dsm4sale/partslist.txt
the guy says to use "The Right Stuff" instead...what's that?

>Banjo bolts are the bolts that are used at the ends by the stock oil feed lines. You can get these at a local DSM shop, or at your Mitsubishi dealership. At around $7-10 each, They are part number

MB033025 for the Oil feed banjo-bolt (top of turbo)
MF650102 Oil feed banjo-bolt (side of head)

>Copper crush washers are the washers that are used by the Banjo bolts. 2 washers for each banjo bolt. One on top of the banjo bolt, and one on bottom. If you dont have these washers, you will leak oil. You can get these from a DSM Shop or at your Mitsubishi dealership. At around $2-3 each, they are part number

MB033054 Oil feed line crush washers (head) (2)
MF660064 Oil feed line crush washers (top of turbo) (2)

>For the 1g oil return line gasket, your not gonna need it. The stock t25 gaskets with some RTV (the stuff mentioned above) should be good.

The right stuff is that RTV Silicone compound im assuming.

DurangoGS-T said:
also i have some pb blaster i'm gonna start spraying on tonight (gonna do it in about a week) so (hopefully) i don't break any or as many bolts.

PB Blaster is a necessity, as you dont need it. My entire install was done just using WD40 here and there. Just dont be stupid and put the socket in half way or use a similar size, but not the right size socket. Use PB Blaster if you must, but it can be done without.

DurangoGS-T said:
what bolts am i more prone to breaking? should i go buy all the bolts or something like a 'hardware kit' that i saw at RRE (or somewhere...i don't remember)? also, do i get the banjo bolts at the dealership? what's the story on the 1g oil return tube gaskets and "The Right Stuff"? is there anything else i should get (kind of like the pb blaster) to make the process go more smoothly?


Turbo to Manifold studs, and Mani to Head bolts are prone to breaking, beacuse the amound of heat they each go through. If a shop is nearby, i wouldnt recommend buying the bolts until you break them. Of course, if you want a perfect install, then you buy everything, and reuse nothing.

Everything has been mentioned above and you should find the answers there. As for anything else to make the process go smoothly, yes. Many things such as friends helping, the right tools, the use of your brain, and another ride incase you need to goto the shop.

One thing that killed me was the LICP. A couple people just flipped their stock one and streteched it to fit. A couple other people found it impossible, such as me. The solution was to cut the stock licp right in the middle, so I would have 2 J shaped pieces. Got a 2.25inch wide by 8-10inch high steel pipe to go right inbetween where I had cut my stock LICP. It fit perfectly. Make sure you bead it if you can, or get T-Clamps, because mine blew off at the tracks.

Do a boost leak test. It is super important.

DurangoGS-T said:
lastly, does the t25 oil feed line come from the filter housing or the head? thanks...i wanna make sure i'm prepared so it doesn't take forever when i try to actually do the install.

The t25 oil feed line comes from the oil filter housing. Its your preference where you want your 14b oil routed from. I had a 1g oil feed line so I routed my oil from the head, and just bought a plug from AMS to plug my t25 oil feed line.

Make sure you torque everything good, or to spec.

Im assuming you already have a boost gauge and controller. If not, you can always bypass a MBC and tap your waste gate with your BOV for stock boost which is 9-10 psi.

If you can, port your stuff before you put it on, especiall your o2 housing. I learned the hard way and now I creep to 16psi on stock boost. If you want to know what to port besides your o2 housing, ask oldman, he's around and im sure he'll help you out.

Expect to pay more than you bargained for, expect many problems, expect a much longer time period, expect the worst. Dont think of this as a quick 4 hour job, especially if this is your first time.

But if everything is working as it should, you can have great pride in your work, because it pulls like one big mother fu*kin ape compared to your pea shooting T25.
 
the oil feed line i got is a hard stock 1g line. does this mean i'm forced to get my oil from the head instead of the filter? i hear oil from the filter is much better (pressure and quality wise). would it be better to go buy an SS line? the 1g line was free, it came with my turbo (thanks Ray!).
 
DurangoGS-T said:
the oil feed line i got is a hard stock 1g line. does this mean i'm forced to get my oil from the head instead of the filter? i hear oil from the filter is much better (pressure and quality wise). would it be better to go buy an SS line? the 1g line was free, it came with my turbo (thanks Ray!).

If you got a stock 1g line, you can route oil from the head. Thats where it originally came off remember? If you feel that you need oil from the oil filter housing for watever reason, an SS braided line would be your best choice. It'll run you about $40-70.
 
hey thanks for all the help so far guys. i have another quesiton...i'm gonna have to get some bolts to put the jpipe on the turbo. do i need to get any special kind of higher temp bolts for this? can i get them from the hardware store or do i need to go to the dealer? thanks.
 
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