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14B Necessary Upgrades

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trinhbt

10+ Year Contributor
67
0
Oct 3, 2011
Zion, Illinois
I wanted to upgrade from the stock T25 to either a 16g or a 14b. What are the necessary upgrades that will allow me to run it at stock boost? Like will I need bigger injectors, fmic, safc/dsmlink, fpr, or a new fuel pump?
 
Thanks for the advice but I thought I couldnt use the classifieds yet because im a new member. Either way those are excellent buyer advice :thumb:

You can't post ads but you can still PM or txt the sellers! And i have a daily driven 14b sitting in my garage with about 10k on it if you cant find any other 14b's pm me and i may be willing to part with it :thumb:
 
Just get the 14b and if you can find a evo 8/9 fuel pump wich flow about 200lph and are quite, or sence your a gst and if you don't mind some noise just get a walbro 255 fuel pump you will be fine and you don't need a afpr.That should allow your 14b to run just fine on stock boost and give it a good kick over the t25.This same thing I did when I swaped my 14b runing 14psi on stock boost by removing restirctor in the bcs no issues.
 
Evo 9 fuel pump is quieter. I have a GSS342 Walbro 255lph (high pressure) fuel pump and it is major overkill. I do get to make stupid jokes about it's whine when someone else gets in the car though... Like "Don't worry. That's just my flux capacitor powering up... When we hit 88 mph, hang on." or "We have to wait until the weapon system finishes powering up..." and my personal favorite "OH SH!T, IT'S A BOMB!" and then fling open the door and dive out... :D
 
Just get the 14b and if you can find a evo 8/9 fuel pump wich flow about 200lph and are quite, or sence your a gst and if you don't mind some noise just get a walbro 255 fuel pump you will be fine and you don't need a afpr.That should allow your 14b to run just fine on stock boost and give it a good kick over the t25.This same thing I did when I swaped my 14b runing 14psi on stock boost by removing restirctor in the bcs no issues.

Is that all you're running? I mean is that all your mods?
 
Is that all you're running? I mean is that all your mods?

That's all I had when I was running my 14b I had exhaust, wideband, boost gauge ,walbro 255 fuel pump, and a 14b ran it like that for a long time.Just took out the plastic restirctor and got it to give me about 15psi.After that is just getting bigger injectors and ecmlink and from there you just need to upgrade to a 16g turbo or bigger that's about all you got to do.After you atleast get the install kit done and throw on the 14b and get a big fuel pump I would save your money and get ecmlink.You might as well just get 1000cc injectors if you get link and the only thing you will have to worry about it the future is if you go for a bigger turbo.
 
running 14b for a while now at 19psi tuned on 92 octane via ecm link. Was a big upgrade from a t-25 even bigger upgrade was tunning it i was running pritty rich with walbro 255, FFWD fuel kit and 650cc's. But it pulls pritty solid now feels bout same as my buddys evo 3 16g just doesnt hold boost as hard after 5grand.
 
I'm in the process of the 14b swap myself. :cool:

I was fortunate enough to get all the oil/coolant feed lines with my 14b turbo. I blocked off my oil filter housing feed, and used the 14b oil feed from the head. Super easy to do!

The stock 1g j-pipe is useless pretty much, so plan on getting a j-pipe to reach whatever inter cooler you are running.

Removing the stock boost control solenoid restrictor, is probably the easiest mod ever. Just be gentle with a drywall screw and it pulls right out, its just a little cylinder inside the plastic end. Good for 1-3 psi.

Good luck and have fun!
 
I'm in the process of the 14b swap myself. :cool:

I was fortunate enough to get all the oil/coolant feed lines with my 14b turbo. I blocked off my oil filter housing feed, and used the 14b oil feed from the head. Super easy to do!

The stock 1g j-pipe is useless pretty much, so plan on getting a j-pipe to reach whatever inter cooler you are running.

Removing the stock boost control solenoid restrictor, is probably the easiest mod ever. Just be gentle with a drywall screw and it pulls right out, its just a little cylinder inside the plastic end. Good for 1-3 psi.

Good luck and have fun!

What install kit did you use?
 
What install kit did you use?

None.

Here's what i have needed

14b turbo

o2 housing gasket (i ported my O2 out, you should do this as well)

Turbo to manifold gasket

Make sure you have the oem conical/belleville washers for the 4 turbo to manifold bolts

New crush washers for the three banjo bolts on the turbo. 6 washers in total.

New oil return gasket x 2. I didnt remove my 2g return from the oil pan, i was super careful and kept it attached. So i only needed one gasket, but you may go a different path, so just get two. you will need to slot the bolt locations for the oil return line turbo side flange, make it narrower so it can bolt to your 14b. I used a dremel, it took a bit of fitment, but it seems to be legit.

If removing your 2g line, or using the 1g line, you need the crush washers that go with the bolts that secure the oil return line to the oil pan.

1g 14b oil feed line, which feeds from the head, plus banjo bolt. Bolt this onto the turbo first with the two coolant lines while the turbo is outside your car. Its like a 19mm bolt head. Really difficult to do once its in the car.

2x crush washers for the oil feed banjo bolt to the head. Crush washers are one time use. They are cheap, just buy them.

o2 housing to downpipe exhaust gasket.

A means of plugging your stock oil filter housing (OFH) feed. Which will be a creative means( which i did), or a plug iirc its a 3/8 NBPT. which is like 19tpi versus NPT which is 18tpi . That's if i am recalling correctly. Make sure to use some kind of thread locker.

If you have a side mount inter cooler, you will need a j-pipe to reach it, if you have a front mount, you will need a different j-pipe. I just got the VRSF FMIC kit, with j-pipe which solves my inter cooler piping woes.

A means of connecting your intake to the 14b. Depending on your intake set-up.

Oil and filter.

Coolant.

My cost was considerably less than an install kit. If you are on a budget its not that bad. Install kits are a bit nicer. But its all functional.

I believe thats all that is needed.

I left my exhaust manifold on the car. So i didnt need that gasket. If you are removing it it is suggested that you replace all the exhaust studs and nuts. I suggest it as well.
 
None.

Here's what i have needed

14b turbo

o2 housing gasket (i ported my O2 out, you should do this as well)

Turbo to manifold gasket

Make sure you have the oem conical/belleville washers for the 4 turbo to manifold bolts

New crush washers for the three banjo bolts on the turbo. 6 washers in total.

New oil return gasket x 2. I didnt remove my 2g return from the oil pan, i was super careful and kept it attached. So i only needed one gasket, but you may go a different path, so just get two. you will need to slot the bolt locations for the oil return line turbo side flange, make it narrower so it can bolt to your 14b. I used a dremel, it took a bit of fitment, but it seems to be legit.

If removing your 2g line, or using the 1g line, you need the crush washers that go with the bolts that secure the oil return line to the oil pan.

1g 14b oil feed line, which feeds from the head, plus banjo bolt. Bolt this onto the turbo first with the two coolant lines while the turbo is outside your car. Its like a 19mm bolt head. Really difficult to do once its in the car.

2x crush washers for the oil feed banjo bolt to the head. Crush washers are one time use. They are cheap, just buy them.

o2 housing to downpipe exhaust gasket.

A means of plugging your stock oil filter housing (OFH) feed. Which will be a creative means( which i did), or a plug iirc its a 3/8 NBPT. which is like 19tpi versus NPT which is 18tpi . That's if i am recalling correctly. Make sure to use some kind of thread locker.

If you have a side mount inter cooler, you will need a j-pipe to reach it, if you have a front mount, you will need a different j-pipe. I just got the VRSF FMIC kit, with j-pipe which solves my inter cooler piping woes.

A means of connecting your intake to the 14b. Depending on your intake set-up.

Oil and filter.

Coolant.

My cost was considerably less than an install kit. If you are on a budget its not that bad. Install kits are a bit nicer. But its all functional.

I believe thats all that is needed.

I left my exhaust manifold on the car. So i didnt need that gasket. If you are removing it it is suggested that you replace all the exhaust studs and nuts. I suggest it as well.

Where did you find all the parts? Do you remember?
 
The 14b, oil feed line, and coolant lines came from the junkyard.

Crush washers can be bought at any auto store. Or online

Extreme Psi has pretty much everything, and great prices. Not to mention they are a local business by me, which I like supporting.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

_p_VRSF 2G FMIC Front Mount Intercooler Kit : 95-99 Eclipse & Talon Turbo 2G

With J-pipe for our 14b swap.

Thats the only shopping I did really. Junkyards are fantastic for all sorts of odds and ends in general. I had a great find with my 14b off a Plymouth Laser.
 
The 14b, oil feed line, and coolant lines came from the junkyard.

Crush washers can be bought at any auto store. Or online

Extreme Psi has pretty much everything, and great prices. Not to mention they are a local business by me, which I like supporting.

EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts

_p_VRSF 2G FMIC Front Mount Intercooler Kit : 95-99 Eclipse & Talon Turbo 2G

With J-pipe for our 14b swap.

Thats the only shopping I did really. Junkyards are fantastic for all sorts of odds and ends in general. I had a great find with my 14b off a Plymouth Laser.

If I snag 1g Oil Lines and Coolant Lines I won't have to drill anything is that correct? Would you recommend an Ebay Kit or the 200 dollar ExtremePSI kit?
 
That is correct my friend. If you get the 1g oil lines and coolant lines you don't have to drill anything. Just use your stock 2g coolant lines and find the 1g oil return line at the junkyard.

How do I bend the water lines and coolant lines with a wrench?
 
I didn't even use all of what he mentioned, though he is correct. That is basically what you should do. I reused my T25 oil drain tube, dremeled the holes at the turbo side so they would fit, filled them with JB Weld, and re-drilled them to match the 14b. My gasket was a coating of 1 Minute Gasket (I love that stuff) on the oil pan side. I used high temp copper gasket spray on the turbo side. No leaks. The oil feed line I purchased from a hydraulic line shop here. They crimped on the fittings and I have had no issues with it. It's a stainless steel braided line. I feed from the oil filter housing. As long as your oil pump is in decent shape, oil filter housing feed is fine. Head feed is better IF you have a properly restricted line. Too much oil pressure in the journal bearing of the turbo is not good. I also bent and cut the water feed lines on the turbo to fit the T25 water lines. No issues, just use pipe clamps to make sure they are stuck on good and tight, and be careful bending them. You don't want to crease those lines. I never had to loosen the banjo bolts for the water feed. Definitely port the O2 housing to the gasket. Even a 14b can boost creep if that is constricted. I re-used the metal gaskets with a coating of the high temp copper spray and torqued it all down. No issues at all. It's a great little turbo, but I can't wait to step up to a TD05h-20g 7cm hotside... Now if I could only find a damn FH211 Fuso...
 
I didn't even use all of what he mentioned, though he is correct. That is basically what you should do. I reused my T25 oil drain tube, dremeled the holes at the turbo side so they would fit, filled them with JB Weld, and re-drilled them to match the 14b. My gasket was a coating of 1 Minute Gasket (I love that stuff) on the oil pan side. I used high temp copper gasket spray on the turbo side. No leaks. The oil feed line I purchased from a hydraulic line shop here. They crimped on the fittings and I have had no issues with it. It's a stainless steel braided line. I feed from the oil filter housing. As long as your oil pump is in decent shape, oil filter housing feed is fine. Head feed is better IF you have a properly restricted line. Too much oil pressure in the journal bearing of the turbo is not good. I also bent and cut the water feed lines on the turbo to fit the T25 water lines. No issues, just use pipe clamps to make sure they are stuck on good and tight, and be careful bending them. You don't want to crease those lines. I never had to loosen the banjo bolts for the water feed. Definitely port the O2 housing to the gasket. Even a 14b can boost creep if that is constricted. I re-used the metal gaskets with a coating of the high temp copper spray and torqued it all down. No issues at all. It's a great little turbo, but I can't wait to step up to a TD05h-20g 7cm hotside... Now if I could only find a damn FH211 Fuso...

How much did that cost you? I'm just trying to figure if I should use the old parts or get ebay.
 
About $30 total. I made my own j pipe to plumb to the smic with a 2 1/4" 90 degree mandrel bend I found at Carquest, hose clamps, and some truck IC hose I got from a local diesel shop. Works great, and holds 20 psi just fine.
 
None.

Here's what i have needed

14b turbo

o2 housing gasket (i ported my O2 out, you should do this as well)

Turbo to manifold gasket

Make sure you have the oem conical/belleville washers for the 4 turbo to manifold bolts

New crush washers for the three banjo bolts on the turbo. 6 washers in total.

New oil return gasket x 2. I didnt remove my 2g return from the oil pan, i was super careful and kept it attached. So i only needed one gasket, but you may go a different path, so just get two. you will need to slot the bolt locations for the oil return line turbo side flange, make it narrower so it can bolt to your 14b. I used a dremel, it took a bit of fitment, but it seems to be legit.

If removing your 2g line, or using the 1g line, you need the crush washers that go with the bolts that secure the oil return line to the oil pan.

1g 14b oil feed line, which feeds from the head, plus banjo bolt. Bolt this onto the turbo first with the two coolant lines while the turbo is outside your car. Its like a 19mm bolt head. Really difficult to do once its in the car.

2x crush washers for the oil feed banjo bolt to the head. Crush washers are one time use. They are cheap, just buy them.

o2 housing to downpipe exhaust gasket.

A means of plugging your stock oil filter housing (OFH) feed. Which will be a creative means( which i did), or a plug iirc its a 3/8 NBPT. which is like 19tpi versus NPT which is 18tpi . That's if i am recalling correctly. Make sure to use some kind of thread locker.

If you have a side mount inter cooler, you will need a j-pipe to reach it, if you have a front mount, you will need a different j-pipe. I just got the VRSF FMIC kit, with j-pipe which solves my inter cooler piping woes.

A means of connecting your intake to the 14b. Depending on your intake set-up.

Oil and filter.

Coolant.

My cost was considerably less than an install kit. If you are on a budget its not that bad. Install kits are a bit nicer. But its all functional.

I believe thats all that is needed.

I left my exhaust manifold on the car. So i didnt need that gasket. If you are removing it it is suggested that you replace all the exhaust studs and nuts. I suggest it as well.

I am feeding oil from the OFH to my 14b. Will that cause any issues?
 
So long as you use a feed line with a proper size orifice (~1mm), you should have no problem. I fed my 14b from the OFH, and I am running my 18g the same way with no issues. Personally ,I would rather have to have a restricted feed line with the possibility of too much oil than risking the lower pressure source at the head, which may be too sluggish for some turbos.

CORRECTION: I had that backwards in the post above this one. The OFH is higher pressure than the head. I must've been tired or drinking when I posted that. :ohdamn:
 
Don't waste your time buying someone else's stock 14b thats worthless to "upgrade" to. Just go Big (no small crap)... Big 16G ported if you can find one... and run 550's, wally 255, safc-II (for starters) & learn to use it, GM 3" MAF, MAF-T, or use the DSMLink v3 (eliminates MAF all together and need for maft), FMIC, 3" turboback (set u up for success later), & a MBC... run 21-25psi your call and boom. you'll make just about 300awhp and have a consistent low 13 or high 12sec car.

If you want to be boss... pick yourself up a sick set of 272's (both cams)... i recommend FP4R, GSC S2s, Cosworth M2's (if they make them for 1g/2gs not just Evo's). forget BC 272's, kelfords are hollow so no, etc.
 
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