14b creep after ported

[95burgundyesi]

I had a 14b ported to take the step out before I put it in, along with a ported evo o2 housing and a 3 inch dp. After some research on here I saw that it will for sure creep. And I know its creep because I ran stock wastegate pressure using a hose from the boost source.

I am scared to death of ruining the housing since its already been ported and all. I am going to go to harbor freight and buy a electric grinder for 30 bucks. But After reading the vfaaq on porting I understand to port behind the door so it opens farther and not to port the entire lip around the flapper door, if i understood correct. And to also stick a grinding bit of some sort in the hole to port the hole bigger but not to make it bigger than the door. I havent thought about how im going to port without hitting the door, i guess be really careful?

and should I go back in the inlet and on the right side of the wall make a better curve by the turn so it flows in there better?

 

[kenamond]

You've got the right idea for the most part.

First thing to check is to disconnect the WGA arm from the lever on the turbine housing and see if you creep. The Evo3 b16g turbo WGA has insufficient throw, so the flapper doesn't open anywhere near 90° and porting behind the door so that it will open all the way is pointless. However, the 14b WGA might have enough throw. You can test this by applying about 12psi to the WGA nipple with a pressure tester (don't overdo it or you could rupture the diaphragm in the WGA) and see how far that causes the lever to turn. If it turns it really far, maybe porting behind the flapper will actually help a bit. At the same time, if you have the housings in hand, you might as well do a bit of cleanup so that the flapper can open all the way (takes a minute or two with that die grinder...I know ).

So if you still creep with the arm off the lever, you need to somehow make it easier for the exhaust to get out the WG (that's the fundamental cause of boost creep).

When you port, the lever will be off the arm anyway, and I just pushed the flapper out of the way so that I could open up the WG hole to a bit larger diameter. I was able to get inside that passage no problem from the O2 housing side of things.

Also, the vfaq porting article doesn't go into very much detail about porting the upwind side of the WG. I'd recommend that you read the tech article titled something like "How to fix boost creep by porting". It hyperlinks to a couple of threads discussing the finer details of what you're trying to achieve. Also, you can search for some of my porting posts.

If you do port so that the flapper will open all the way, make sure you do the same to the O2 housing. Otherwise, the flapper might not open when you assemble the O2 and turbine housings. I think the vfaq article mentions that as well.

I highly recommend double-cut or diamond-cut tungsten carbide burs. Note that "diamond-cut" refers to the diamond pattern of the cutting flutes, not material (they won't have any diamond in them). These burs make much more civilized shavings. Single cut burs make nasty miniature needles that are horrible if they get in your skin (or eyes).

I also recommend a cutting length of 1" and diameter of around 1/2". The cylinder-ball-end bur shape worked well for me as did the flame bur shape. You probably need 1/4" shank diameter, but make sure based on your grinder model (I also have a Harbor Freight grinder but it might be a different model).

Another thing to be mindful of is to not thin out the housing too much when you're contouring the entrance to the WG on the upwind side in the turbine housing. I used dial calipers to measure key dimensions like the depth of the downwind WG opening that's cast into the turbine housing (that contains the "room" that the flapper is inside of). Measure that depth away from the turbine/O2 gasket surface. Then measure how far from the mani-turbine gasket surface to the top of the "room". Then you know "where" on the inside of the housing the corner of that "room" is and can use the calipers to occasionally check the remaining wall thickness. I don't know what's too thin, but you certainly don't want to cut all the way through or have something too thin that would crack eventually. I know that member calan was recently concerned about this.

If you still have an old housing, I'd recommend a practice run on that housing to get the general idea. I did that on my T25 housing before porting my new turbo.

Finish up with a Dremel and flap wheel (I used 80 grit flap wheel). That will do wonders on the rough surface. You can then go overboard like I did and hand sand starting with 120 grit and working down to 600 grit wet sanding. Use aluminum oxide paper for the coarse grit, as it won't clog as much when sanding steel. You can get something pretty shiney if you're OCD and a perfectionist like I am. Below is my final result.

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[95burgundyesi]

Wow! that was a mouthful and insightful. thanks haha mine doesnt look that ported out! wow I want that!

 

[GofaST4life]

kenamond, your the man...

ill be porting soon, and im bookmarking eveyr thread were its talked about...

 

[ZmanIV]

Something else to mention is that after I ported my E316G and was test fitting the gasket in between the turbine and O2 housing is that the gasket protruded into the area that I ported to allow the flapper to open up all the way. This gasket would not allow the flapper to open up all the way. I trimmed out the offending stainless also and all was good.

 

[Mr Peepers]

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Are you sure you didn't just draw that picture up on MS paint?

 

[kenamond]

Something else to mention is that after I ported my E316G and was test fitting the gasket in between the turbine and O2 housing is that the gasket protruded into the area that I ported to allow the flapper to open up all the way. This gasket would not allow the flapper to open up all the way. I trimmed out the offending stainless also and all was good.

I layed the gasket on the housing and scribed the gasket shape onto the housing (both actually) and ported out to the scribe marks. Then I tested the WG flapper and it opened. Mine was a FP Big28, though.

Are you sure you didn't just draw that picture up on MS paint?

I'm not that patient!

 

[Meklo_4G63t]

I layed the gasket on the housing and scribed the gasket shape onto the housing (both actually) and ported out to the scribe marks. Then I tested the WG flapper and it opened. Mine was a FP Big28, though.



I'm not that patient!

hey of u did it yourself what did u use. i would love to try porting by hand. something to learn and do.

 

[Calan]

Friggin over-achievers...

 

[Meklo_4G63t]

im just to much of a dsn fanatic

 

[kenamond]

hey of u did it yourself what did u use. i would love to try porting by hand. something to learn and do.

I used a harbor freight electric die grinder, double-cut cylinder-ball-end bur (1" cut length, 1/2" diameter, 1/4"x2" shank, then a dremel tool with 80 grit flap wheel, then 120, 210, 400, 600 dry and 600 wet sandpaper.

 

[68442]

How long do the flap wheels on the dremel last?

 

[kenamond]

How long do the flap wheels on the dremel last?

Depends on how shitty your porting with the die grinder was . You can go through one in 30 mins maybe, but it's been a while so I might be off a tad bit there. They cost me $8 at the local hardware store, but you can get generics dirt cheap online. Just google "dremel flap wheel". They cost under $2/ea but shipping is probably going to affect that. I used 4 or 5 to do preliminary finishing on my turbine, O2 and mani. Doesn't do much but knock off the soot on the O2 and mani, though.

 

[Meklo_4G63t]

Depends on how shitty your porting with the die grinder was . You can go through one in 30 mins maybe, but it's been a while so I might be off a tad bit there. They cost me $8 at the local hardware store, but you can get generics dirt cheap online. Just google "dremel flap wheel". They cost under $2/ea but shipping is probably going to affect that. I used 4 or 5 to do preliminary finishing on my turbine, O2 and mani. Doesn't do much but knock off the soot on the O2 and mani, though.

SO HOW FAR U WENT ON THE DIE

 

[Meklo_4G63t]

I used a harbor freight electric die grinder, double-cut cylinder-ball-end bur (1" cut length, 1/2" diameter, 1/4"x2" shank, then a dremel tool with 80 grit flap wheel, then 120, 210, 400, 600 dry and 600 wet sandpaper.

OK I GOT THAT.......I NEVER WANT TO MESS WITH THE TURBO BUT IM GOING TO A EVO16G SO I WILL DO THAT TO IT

 

[kenamond]

SO HOW FAR U WENT ON THE DIE

ALL THE WAY. THE FLAP WHEEL AND SANDPAPER WAS JUST TO SMOOTH OUT THE ROUGHNESS LEFT BEHIND BY THE BUR. AND WHY ARE WE YELLING?

 

[Meklo_4G63t]

ALL THE WAY. THE FLAP WHEEL AND SANDPAPER WAS JUST TO SMOOTH OUT THE ROUGHNESS LEFT BEHIND BY THE BUR. AND WHY ARE WE YELLING?

I forgot about that capslock button but i want to get a 16g evo3 to be like that... I think i will see a difference

 

[Mr Peepers]

By the way, the OP was running open downpipe... hence all the creep

I touched up the last port job and concentrated on the wall leading to the wastegate and passage. In 2nd it would creep to around 16 psi near redline but throughout the night it would fluctuate. All of this still running open 3" downpipe, I have a headache With the rest of the exhaust put on I'm confident to say there should be no creep, at least not past stock boost. If it does, another wastegate will go under the knife.

Another one added to Peeper's Creepers list

 

[Vicious_mole]

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that is a freaking beautiful port job! you are the man!

 

[92AWDHX40]

wow thats nice.