@pauleyman
Pull the intake manifold and rerun the pressure test. With it out of the way, the water pipe is very easy to observe to check the O-rings.
And you’d have to pull it anyway either way.

pauleyman said:

So back to my old subaru outback. Its been sitting. Leaks coolant. Anybody got tips or tricks on an ej motor to determine if its upper orings or head gaskets? Cant tell which. Coolant pressure check immediately spits coolant outside i just cant tell where. Maybe i should just yank the motor no matter what

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Pressure test and soapy water. It’s probably going to be headgaskets but make sure. The signs I had were a seep of oil along the headgasket edge on the bottom and then caught a drop of coolant coming one day. I did mine on 03 forester when I got it and did it the right way. Decked/checked. New head bolts. The good headgaskets. #4 started misfiring the other day so I might just put a used engine in it and while it’s out do everything. At 230k I think she’s lives a rough life besides me so that’ll be my selling point if I get a different daily. It’s also a good thing to have backup cars or other options. If the truck takes a shit (runs like a top but who knows) I might have to bust out the Mirage from retirement.

I figure I’m not getting any younger and it’s always been a dream so here we go. SCC state stuff filed. Hopefully looking at a place this weekend or next. The least amount of overhead is the best to start off of course and I’m efficient with space so it shouldn’t be a problem being under 2500sqft. You give and take with city prices on space but that’s where the money and clientele is. Wish me luck.

Bentley Flying Spur in for a noise. The left rear wheel bearing is very, very bad. Super nice cars just expensive and a nightmare to maintain when it does need work.
F-250= hurry up and chase multiple wiring issues you say. The trailer plug corroded and melted the brake wiring but also the trailer turns weren’t working. The main brake wire (blue) shorted the 20+ year old module but somewhere in between the wire from the fuse block in the harness to the relays broke. Ran an overlay from the connector to the relays .
The MG was next door at the upholstery shop. What a cool little car but a death trap for my 6’3” ass.
Also the ABC on the Mercedes are stupid. A line blew out so we’re doing the a couple lines and seeing what happens. It’s on the ground. Give me airstruts all day on the lower models.
Last can someone guess this old Japanese import?

TerminalTalon said:

Bentley Flying Spur in for a noise. The left rear wheel bearing is very, very bad. Super nice cars just expensive and a nightmare to maintain when it does need work.
F-250= hurry up and chase multiple wiring issues you say. The trailer plug corroded and melted the brake wiring but also the trailer turns weren’t working. The main brake wire (blue) shorted the 20+ year old module but somewhere in between the wire from the fuse block in the harness to the relays broke. Ran an overlay from the connector to the relays .
The MG was next door at the upholstery shop. What a cool little car but a death trap for my 6’3” ass.
Last can someone guess this old Japanese import?

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Looks like a ca20 out of a 200sx or possibly something similar that got imported, skyline mabe can't recognize the suspension. Maybe pulsar? Not sure if it had ca or sr20

That last suspension pic looks more like a BMW that anything else, with the way they have the pad wear sensor and the speed sensor harness clipped to the spindle. Or is it that Bentley on first pic?

Vladimir said:

Looks like a ca20 out of a 200sx or possibly something similar that got imported, skyline mabe can't recognize the suspension. Maybe pulsar? Not sure if it had ca or sr20

That last suspension pic looks more like a BMW that anything else, with the way they have the pad wear sensor and the speed sensor harness clipped to the spindle. Or is it that Bentley on first pic?

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84 200sx
That’s a 03 500SL. It blew an abc line and another shop quoted him $12-15k for everything. I say let’s fix the main culprit and a couple other lines and see if it works for now. That stuff is too much.

TerminalTalon said:

84 200sx
That’s a 03 500SL. It blew an abc line and another shop quoted him $12-15k for everything. I say let’s fix the main culprit and a couple other lines and see if it works for now. That stuff is too much.

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200sx was my first guess because of the giant sideways cruise control diaphragm.

12-15k for flaring up some brake lines and bleeding the system ehh... Sounds like the shop didn't want their business and just wanted them gone. Maybe cause they used metric bubble flare lines, some techs don't understand metric stuff...in any case what a rip off. Also from what I remember those older SLs had biodegradable wiring, careful playing with the harnesses, they literally crumble under your fingers

Vladimir said:

200sx was my first guess because of the giant sideways cruise control diaphragm.

12-15k for flaring up some brake lines and bleeding the system ehh... Sounds like the shop didn't want their business and just wanted them gone. Maybe cause they used metric bubble flare lines, some techs don't understand metric stuff...in any case what a rip off. Also from what I remember those older SLs had biodegradable wiring, careful playing with the harnesses, they literally crumble under your fingers

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It’s factory lines and I mean we are 7-9 hours just for those. The main one that blew out wraps the frame rail, goes over the steering shaft and down. Had to loosen the engine mount just to get a the heat shield out that covers it and another line. They wanted to replace everything. Struts, lines, etc.

TerminalTalon said:

It’s factory lines and I mean we are 7-9 hours just for those. The main one that blew out wraps the frame rail, goes over the steering shaft and down. Had to loosen the engine mount just to get a the heat shield out that covers it and another line. They wanted to replace everything. Struts, lines, etc.

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Im in one of the worst rustbelt states possible. The amount of brake lines that I've done is crazy. Totally understand what you are going through. For the past 10 years or so I've been using Nicopp lines, they are a bit more expensive but last forever and are so easy to work with. I usually use my mastercool hydraulic flaring kit, makes the flares fast and perfect every time. It's only around $500-600 new, I have 2 both are used constantly

It’s called the “car killer” line for a reason. I’m going to have to drop the subframe a bit to even get it out.

2019 accord 1.5 turbo… here for a head gasket recall, and while tearing it down I found out the customer doesn’t care much for oil changes. only 90k miles… uber driver. Surprise surprise.

I hope everyone in the path of Isaias is keeping a close eye on it and has a game plan if things get rough. I'm hopefully far enough North of the coast to get just a mild storm, but I plan to stay up for a while and watch the radars anyway. I heard it's been rough coastal.

We have the 86 Z28 under the knife.

My son went to check his Holley Sniper tune before a car show a month ago and when he fired her up, NO oil pressure so he immediately turned it off. We have had ISSUES with this engine before, as it BROKE an oil pump off of the rear main cap. The neck of the pump was very porous (I still have both pcs) so we changed to a Moroso Toughneck pump. I did NOT pay much attention to the oil pump driveshaft and reassembled the unit, buttoned her back up and slipped her back in the bay (I made that sound easy, didn't I ). It ran ok but had an issue with pressure over 4k rpm, no matter if you snuck up on it or floored it.

One day, out of the blue, the car HELD the correct pressure past 4k, all the way to redline, 6600. My son was SUPER happy and me too. That was right before he dumped the 30wt oil and put 20w50 in. It picked up about 5 psi with the 20w50 BUT....it was cool that morning, so thicker oil and bam, no oil pressure.

We yanked the transmission out today and the motor is ready to come out, not a single bolt holding it in, but I had to remove the Holley HyperSpark distributor to keep from damaging it when the unit tipped towards the firewall. For kicks, I put my priming tool down the dizzy bore, after a visual inspection to see if the intermediate driveshaft was there, and it was. I turned it by hand and it was super easy to turn so I was suspicious then a THUNK, and it grabbed and I had oil pressure by hand turning the priming tool. Anyway, we are so deep now that the NEW motor I built will be going in, transmission beefed way up and long tube, instead of shorty, headers will be in the car.

I have no idea what I will find when I pull the pan and look to see what's going on but already did order a new ARP intermediate shaft from JEGS and it will go into that motor, no matter what I find.

Here are a few pictures of the day, no football for me today.
Sorry for the long story but it has been an issue that nobody's ever heard of or able to say "This is what is wrong".
Stay Tuned for updates as I also do not know what kind if monster I built to replace it. Both are 400 SBC's , very unsuspecting in a mid 80's Camaro.
Pops

Thanks Steve, I hurried through that post so I appreciate the fine touch. I'm tired, . TY

I hope I parsed it right. I have a hard time reading/understanding things anymore that are solid blocks of text.

Yeah it was on my end. Tired, jotting down what all was done, add pics. Yeah....but thanks, i noticed. Made it MUCH better!

I finally got my parents’ 1963 Corvette on the road, right in time for winter. I blame the late start to summer; it was stuck in storage until June 27 because nobody pulled their cars out. My folks haven’t driven it since 2008 and won’t this year since the brake booster is kaput and requires a lot of leg to stop. The car only left me stranded in heavy traffic once in the 100 or so miles I put on it!



For next spring, I’ve got Grandpa CD9A’s old 1964 Ford Galaxie lined up (when I’m not finishing up the Corvette). It’s got piston slap, scattered rust, the body mount brackets are all cooked, and I put a hammer through the frame, so I’m really not looking forward to this!

Just got a '13 TSX for my wife, and in typical fashion, 2 weeks of ownership and I started to get a catalytic efficiency code. So, to be "financially responsible", I talked my wife into getting a PLM catted downpipe. It still feels weird seeing cars with a manifold built into the head. Added a Vibrant Ultra Quiet to make not raspy. Wife asked what the downpipe does over the factory cats. My answer: "13 horses get freed."

Turbski91 said:

2019 accord 1.5 turbo… here for a head gasket recall, and while tearing it down I found out the customer doesn’t care much for oil changes. only 90k miles… uber driver. Surprise surprise.

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Not going to lie. Seeing neglected engines hurts. Why is it so hard to change oil on time? Especially since most modern cars all have oil life messages on the dash info screens.

electrohead said:

Not going to lie. Seeing neglected engines hurts. Why is it so hard to change oil on time? Especially since most modern cars all have oil life messages on the dash info screens.

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Yeah don’t get into this field. The majority of stuff I see is neglected. Even the basic maintenance table for the normies is like introducing a caveman to fire for the first time.
Also the 10k oil change intervals most manufacturers recommend and go by for the oil light and percentage resets is way off. Any tech in the field that is even remotely competent has seen the inside of these engines and it’s a nightmare. Also most people don’t account for the short drives which knocks the life of the oil down significantly. I can see for example like a Mercedes V8 at 8+ liters but 4-5 quarts and city driving makes them expensive since everything is now variable timing with $$$$ in timing components. 5k on most stuff with full synthetic is all I recommend so even if you neglected it there’s some leeway to not eat it in the backend.

I still am not a fan of variable timing. I seem to do OK with setting it the way I want it. Sadly, your comment is correct, my son wrenches for a shop, I hear the tales....

Recently attended the All ford round up in WI Dells, and lead a couple other friends on a nice scenic drive. I've owned the truck 10 years and this is the furthest from home I've taken it. Almost exactly a year since the rebuilt 306/AOD and she's running great, about 2500mi on it this summer.

Unbiased opinion amongst DSM guys: SBC > SBF

You gotta stay on top of these damn things.
This one seems to like to shake the oil pan and header bolts loose about every 500mi.

I am no longer a "Chevy" guy, even though that is what is stll left around my place. Now, I am a "Is it Cool" guy. Idc what it is if its a nice ride. The Dodge guys give me shit at car shows for having an "import", then I show them the Chrysler emblem on the fender.