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Street Build Project 1g (NBA DSM)

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Finished finalizing the gauge placement. Installed the CanChecked MFD15 gauge, added the screen selector knob, and carbon block off plates. Very satisfied with the outcome.
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Update: Back to wiring. Installed the relay box and started checking my connections with 12v power. So far everything checks out like it should. Started laying out a plan for the starter circuit since I didn’t want to hack up the ignition circuit harness. I decided to purchase a turbo timer harness to use as a splice connection point. Next on the list is to connect the Fuel pump signal wire and merge the ecu outputs to the factory dash. I also found a better mounting point for the epas controller box. Behind the scenes I’m working on the base map, the S2 should be purchased within the next few weeks.
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Moonlight GSX said:
Could do a momentary switch to the starter, just dont touch it while driving...

In all seriousness, what would be your plan on that?
Click to expand...
All I did was tap in a 14gauge wire to the turbo timer harness, from there it goes to the starter solenoid. The turbo timer harness taps directly into the oem ignition bundle that houses the black/yellow starter wire.
 
jamel16 said:
Update: Since the auxiliary fuse block wiring is pretty much finished, I decided to place an order for my battery relocation kit. That should be here sometime next week. Well waiting for that, I decided to wire up my gauges and find a sleek, low key location. I could have easily just got a gauge pod, but a couple of friends got theirs ripped out during a car theft. I just think it becomes more of a target. I decided to go with the Prosport Premium amber/white collection. I read the reviews and they seemed to be decent for the price. The gauges I picked up was the electric boost/vacuum, electric oil pressure, electric fuel pressure, fuel level, water temperature, and voltmeter, my only complaint so far was that they didn’t come with a black bezel. I also picked up am Innovative LC-1 w/ red DB gauge.
The plan is to relocate the oil pressure, water temp, fuel level to the gauge cluster, and the boost, fuel pressure, voltmeter, and wideband to the HVAC console.View attachment 309240
Next I started cutting out the gauge hole in the white bezel holder, I was worried about my indicator lights not working, so my solution was not to disturb the gauge circuit board. Hopefully this thing works.View attachment 309241 View attachment 309243 View attachment 309244 View attachment 309245
Before I bought the fuel level gauge, I wanted to replace the oem boost gauge with a oem fuel level gauge. Lets Just say that, that idea didn’t work out too well. View attachment 309246 View attachment 309247 View attachment 309248
Here is the finished product, I added a weather pack connector and painted the gauge bezels satin black. It wasn’t that difficult of a project. I also changed the tach to a n/t model because I think it makes the cluster look that much more clean.
Click to expand...
Did this hurt anything other than what you deleted? My fuel gauge dont work and I wanted to replace it. Would be sweet to have oil and water here as well. Any tips?
 
ItsTwan309 said:
Did this hurt anything other than what you deleted? My fuel gauge dont work and I wanted to replace it. Would be sweet to have oil and water here as well. Any tips?
Click to expand...
I remember the old gauges stuck out too much for the circuit board to sit flush. It should work now since modern gauges are much thinner.

92AWDHX40 said:
Hey you got it
Click to expand...
Yeah It took me awhile to muster up the strength to make that purchase. I’m still having night sweats LOL.
 
Update: So fellow members it’s been awhile, but I’m hard at it. The shootout scramble is real. So in the midst of everything I had to go in am make some changes to the relay/fuse box. Instead of using 12v switched power to turn on my relays, I opted to have the ( ECR) do it. This is per Haltech recommendation. Also I rewired the fuel pumps.Threw some labels on the relays completed the final install. Next I mounted the Speed gps module and the Pruis EPAs gps module. Instead of a knob to control steering input, it uses a speed gps signal

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The Haltech is installed and all wired up. I powered it up and connected the WiFi. That’s a game changer by itself, I can configure the base map at the kitchen table. So this is my first stand alone ecu so it was intimidating at first. Haltech makes the layout user friendly. Next task is to put the interior back together and hopefully get a first start this weekend.
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Oh yeah getting there see soon plan is to get it started on haltech and then im a happy dsmers headed back home. To on road.
 
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