The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

2G Clutch engagement issues

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Donv

5+ Year Contributor
51
6
Jun 11, 2021
Parkville, Missouri
Changed the master and slave I’m assuming pulling the trans is the next step

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 
Did you bleed the system? I dont think your trans will have anything to do with your pedal sticking to the floor.
I’ve bled it multiple times and replaced the master/slave and in the video the car won’t go into gear when it’s turned on
 
Where does your shift fork sit? Take a pic of where the slave meets the fork on the trans.
Maybe some smarter than I can chime in, but have you bless any with car running?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
First off. Order the boot for that hole.
Second, the for should be more centered than that. More bleeding. Try two man bleed. Pedal up, open bleeder, pedal goes down, close cleeder
What about the noise when I press in the clutch ^^ the first video
 
I’m not sure on the sound. Hopefully someone smarter than I can jump it

Could just be that when you push the clutch in that it’s only just barely touching the flywheel.
What condition is the clutch?
 
Could just be that when you push the clutch in that it’s only just barely touching the flywheel.
What condition is the clutch?
Brand new

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Yes you may have a bad master. However also read this clutch bleed procedure (https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772). Notice the paragraph that starts with "Step Two: Next have person pump clutch, hold down pedal...". You MUST do this to get remaining air out of the slave (or you can get stuck pedal, no complete disengagement, etc).

Rechecking this first is WAY easier and faster than pulling the tranny again OR replacing the master.
 
Last edited:
IMO you need to bleed it better.
"Step Two" about 3/4 down the page: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772
Edit: Gary beat me to it!

Your fork is maybe a little too far to the driver's side. Did you use any pivot ball shim(s)?

It's hard to tell from the pic of your pressure plate, but the fingers look a little flat. They should protrude a bit. Maybe you have a different angle pic?

Finally, do you know for certain what your flywheel step is?
 
IMO you need to bleed it better.
"Step Two" about 3/4 down the page: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772
Edit: Gary beat me to it!

Your fork is maybe a little too far to the driver's side. Did you use any pivot ball shim(s)?

It's hard to tell from the pic of your pressure plate, but the fingers look a little flat. They should protrude a bit. Maybe you have a different angle pic?

Finally, do you know for certain what your flywheel step is?

You must be logged in to view this image or video.


You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
 
Your fork too far too the right IMO. The noise you great might be the fork scraping on the pressure plate. Did you check the flywheel step height? The fingers look very flat but they would all have a slight uphill angle to them.
 
Your fork too far too the right IMO. The noise you great might be the fork scraping on the pressure plate. Did you check the flywheel step height? The fingers look very flat but they would all have a slight uphill angle to them.
This is the clutch kit I was recommended

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
IMO you need to bleed it better.
"Step Two" about 3/4 down the page: https://www.dsmtuners.com/threads/clutch-will-not-disengage.460266/#post-153268772
Edit: Gary beat me to it!

Your fork is maybe a little too far to the driver's side. Did you use any pivot ball shim(s)?

It's hard to tell from the pic of your pressure plate, but the fingers look a little flat. They should protrude a bit. Maybe you have a different angle pic?

Finally, do you know for certain what your flywheel step is?
I was recommended this clutch kit

You must be logged in to view this image or video.
 

Attachments

You must be registered for see attachments list
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale S90 TB 70mm
    Purchased this month from STM. Comes with the FIAV block off plate that was already installed...
    • Bedicine
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 1g Need 1g AC tensioner bracket
    I am in need of 1g AC tensioner bracket - looking for complete with bolts. Recently bought 92...
    • JLavetsky
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted 1g Pop-up light button
    Looking for a 1ga pop up light button / switch
    • steelcurtaindsm
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • Wanted Anyone selling Plymouth laser wheels can bring to the shootout?
    I'm looking to purchase a full set of Plymouth laser wheels if someone can bring to the shootout I
    • Syclone#334
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale DeatschWerks fuel pump
    DeatschWerks DW200 fuel pump. Probably has less than 1000 miles on it. Was keeping it as a...
    • RamenPride
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top