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[VIDEO] Clutch Engagement Issues HELP

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greekgodchaos

15+ Year Contributor
565
211
Jul 4, 2007
Vancouver, Washington
DSM Clutch Noise Pedal IN - YouTube

NEW: OEM master and slave cylinders, bled clutch according to TeamRIP over 40 times, XTD 2600 PP, XTD 6 puck unsprung clutch disc, OEM TOB, Taboo billet TOB fork, shimmed pivot ball with 1 washer, Fidanza Flywheel, freshly rebuilt clutch pedal assembly (not welded, bronze bushing, repair kit with OEM parts from JNZTuning.)


So a few weeks ago, the 1-2 roll pin that keeps the shift fork on the rail fell out so I tore the transmission apart and fixed it and put it back on (2nd time rebuilding it, no I did not mess up the reassembly, I know what I am doing), I swapped my street disc out for my 6-puck because the old one was turning to kitty hair. Now 1-2 are blocked, 3 goes in reluctantly, 4th, 5th don't want to go into gear, and reverse, I can go into gear, but when I do, the car just lurches backwards even with my foot hard down on the clutch pedal. The noise can be heard when I depress the clutch pedal which makes me first think of a TOB problem, but its brand new OEM Mitsu so I dont think thats what it could be, and the TOB clip is on and is brand new, and the clutch fork is centered in the hole where the slave cylinder is. this is a 91 AWD with a W5M33 transmission. :banghead:

Ill probably drop the transmission and see WTF is going on in a few hours I am just livid and hate my car right now.

Oh and can someone tell me what would happen if you somehow "overshimmed" the pivot ball?
 
Last edited:
Thanks for the help everyone; no really, thanks. :rolleyes: Anyways, my 6 puck disc (8.25mm) was thicker than my old ACT street disc (7.6mm), and I also shimmed my pivot ball my 4.00mm and BAM, transmission shifts like fracking butter now. WINNING. :hellyeah:
 
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