Twicks69 is the universally recognized transmission expert for the DSM community? I would maybe suggest reaching out directly to his account. I believe this is also his company if you'd like to try through here.

I could try contacting them but it looks like they stopped doing the auto in 2022 I could see what they say about it

@twicks69 , can you be of assistance for guidance? Thanks

So your W4A33 is completely stock currently with just a shift box?? This is a 1g non lockup trans? What torque converter are you using? What other drivetrain mods are already completed?

Well, what power levels are you currently at? What engine management are you using? 800awhp on an auto is easy 8 second passes and 155+mph, so if you think you are going to street drive this, you better have the rest of the car properly prepared with extremely stout braking, solid suspension components and all bushings, upgraded front and rear axles, billet rear diff cover, built transfer case with billet transfer case brace at a minimum and realistically a 25 spline 300m output shaft modification with an upgraded driveshaft.

I wouldn't expect any of your stock components to last long. You will want a shop that has experience specifically with DSM high power autos, I would recommend Darren Thomas Racing. You can find him on Facebook, or email at: [email protected]

For parts, expect some sort of upgraded torque convertor, Kiggly SFI flex plate, Kiggly billet front clutch assembly or at least a Kiggly 5 friction front clutch assembly in the OEM basket, a PROPERLY welded center diff with care to the heating up and cooling down process. Then the valve body would use a Translab shift kit, max out the pressures on the valve body, ideally a higher capacity oil pan, a very large transmission cooler ideally with a serviceable high flow pre-filter before the cooler inlet. I would use Alto / Red Eagle friction / steel kits with a complete rebuild, and replace the reverse sun shell and kick down band while it's torn down.

Do not do any load pulls ever in 4th as it will snap the splined end of the input shaft at the end clutch assembly.

Use John Deere Hy-Gard, regular viscosity. Nothing else.

With these types of builds, please please please put a lot of money and effort into safety, suspension, braking and cage work. I still strongly recommend going to the track to play around with the car on full power as it is a closed environment with safety personnel onsite if there is a problem.

Good luck!

I think before was running like 400 ish never got numbers but I’m planing on at least 650 and want to go to 800 and everything is ready it will just be changed by boost controller my car runs of of VE with ECMLink. I have a Kiggly flex plate and that’s about it so far. Cars not done and it’s got 2g brakes on the front drilled and slotted.

If you could give me a full list for suspension and stuff I found axles and I’m looking to get BC coilovers. 800 will most likely be tops for a while I think I’ll be around 400 to 500 when street driving but I wanna get the transmission ready before the car is done cars it would be easier to do everything else over pulling the transmission.

Good luck! It takes A LOT to get to 800.
This is just a calculated number, but its the most I have seen. My build is pretty healthy and $$$. Again though, this is just a #. The car is a handful to drive, I can say that.

2g brakes aren't anything special, if you are running drilled / slotted rotors, I would be on like an EBC Yellow front pad / Red rear pad combination if both are converted. Otherwise I would be looking at 12.2" x 0.81" or 13" x 1.10" front rotors with a 6 piston Wilwood caliper and BP-20 pads brake kit, and either a 11.75" x 0.81" or 12.2" x 0.81" rotor 4 piston rear setup with FSL or BSL calipers. Do not go with a thin 0.320" rear rotor.

If I recall www.tceperformanceproducts.com or STM or Magnus may have kits. You do not need TBM (Brake Man) drag kits. You need heavy duty STREET kits, or you are going to have to build them.

I’ve actually been looking into wilwood for breaks and now that I know for a fact I will get in contact with them

Can someone help me find this Alto / Red Eagle friction / steel kits with a complete rebuild and put the link down cause I can’t find it and I’m probably gonna get a kiggly front 6 if that will work for a bit

Cause it probably won’t be at 800 till I get a set of axles and everything else I need for 800

I have a thread about the 5 pak Kiggly front clutch but nothing on the 6, sorry. The most important thing is GET THE CLEARANCES RIGHT and air check it. I didn't get mine right and totally screwed up the front basket. It almost welded itself as 1 big hunk of junk. Just a tip is all. Best of luck in the goal!
Here is the best place that I trust ------
Mitsubishi DSM Transmission Rebuild Kit https://share.google/lXQ6sdDIBCeAzuwru
Also, if you can get ahold of him, there is DTR. IDT he has a particular  website, but is a member here. He has a good handle on the DSM automatics but is a very busy person.

This is a helpful resource - https://w4a33.com/doku.php?id=transmission

Borg Warner High Energy end clutch kit - https://ebay.io/m/ywLySI
Ray Bestos Stage 2 kit - RCPS-44 - MITSUBISHI W4A33 1991-ON 6 Low/Reverse Stage-1 Red, 4 Overdrive Tan, 5 Forward Stage-1 Red, 4 Direct Stage-1 Red -- not finding anyone with it in stock. Rock Auto is out of stock also.
Raybestos steel kit - STMMITSU07 - showing out of stock as well.
The Alto / Red Eagle kit in the past was 108903HPSK, but I am not finding any available.

The Transtar kit for low power cars was this one - 42004MF - https://transend.us/products/transmission/master-rebuild-kits/less-steels-kits/42004mf
More parts on Transtar - Pages 2-5 - https://transend.us/products/search?pageNumber=2&searchText=W4A33-1&sortTypeId=1&availabilityName=Hide Out of Stock

Kickdown band - N42022M - https://transend.us/products/transmission/bands/bands/n42022m

More parts here - https://suntransmissions.com/search?q=w4a33
Borg Warner kit and other parts - https://www.transpartsonline.com/TR...p?TransPartsOnline=KM170&TransPartsType=F4A33

1G W4A33 Silicone gasket set - https://www.ao-customs.com/store/p/1g-4a33-automatic-transmission-silicone-gasket-set

TransLab STL-175-HP Shift Kit - A42165HP - https://ebay.io/m/lY6ZJO

I'm still looking for options, other than what Kiggly Racing sells. - https://www.kigglyracing.com/shop-1

Useful part numbers - I have not checked to see what is available, but this is from an old spreadsheet of mine:
OEM Master Seal Kit MD997962
OEM Master Seal Kit (2G) MD973534
OEM Reverse Sunshell MD736921
OEM Rev Kickdown Band 2.362" MD736920
OEM Filter (Thick Metal) MD735572
OEM Filter Bolts (M6x25mm) MF140209
Front Clutch Reaction Plate MD739385
Front Clutch Pressure Plate MD755524
Forward Clutch Reaction Plate MD731585 - 42148M
Forward Clutch Pressure Plate MD755524 - D42149MA (aftermarket)
Forward Clutch Wave Spring D42974DA (aftermarket)
Valvebody Spacer Plate (large) MD735689
Valvebody Spacer Plate (small) MD737772
Oil Pump Seal Rings MD713991
Oil Pump Housing Gasket MD752978
Oil Pump Housing OD O-Ring 2791A034
Oil Pump Housing Input Oil Seal MR967673
AWD Driver Side Axle Seal MD719710
AWD Passenger Side Axle Seal MD707184
AWD Output Shaft Seal MD731793
FWD Axle Seals MD742053
2G Speed Sensor Sleeve MD760149
Oil Pan Drain Plug MD050316
Oil Pan Drain Plug Gasket MD050317
Transmission Case Drain Plug MB001265
Transmission Case Drain Plug Gasket MN130495
Oil Pan Gasket (2G) MD739243
Idler Gear Cover Gasket MD739242
Front Clutch thrust washers MD997914
End Clutch Assembly MD752908
End Clutch Reaction Plate MD713149
2G Oil Pan MD751252
TORX planetary retainer plate bolts MD734702
Manual Shifting Valve (for valvebody) MD716843
Idler Gear Shaft Lock Plate MD734962
Center Differential Spider Gear Washers MD737658
Center Differential Pinion Gear Circlip MD733868
2G Dipstick MD756942
Dipstick Breather Tube MD731108
Planetary Inner Roller Bearing MD731160

I looked at Oregon Performance Transmission, just to see if they offered the Alto Red and nope, they don't. They have a rebuild kit but no HP clutches/steels.
F4A33-1 Rebuild Kit W4A33-1 Automatic Transmission Master Banner Overhaul Box Set : Oregon Performance Transmission https://share.google/4FMhsOZrM33yWRCoO

As mentioned, DTR. He is an Oklahoma local and while auto transmissions are his specialty, he does full machine work and engine builds for these cars. I have his trans in my car and he also rebuilt the head in it. Good luck.

With the trans make sure you add a good cooler and ducting for it! Keeping the fluids cool is key to helping. They can handle pretty well but if old it will wear out faster! Service it all and will be back to good strength again.

Add a good diff also and will help keep it more balanced in the front.

If you need good brakes you got a few options.

Scott does the CTSV calipers https://www.facebook.com/scott.fairbanks.902
Going the CTSV route requires the rears to be Evo or something else if you make it fit.

Then we do full bolt on kits Front and rear) With many options specific to your build so we have more options covered in the braking sector. We also do manual dual master cylinder kits for those wishing to take braking to another level!

Worth mentioning our offerings also as well as what Scott does

Thank you all so much I will definitely be using all this info when we get there hopefully I can find more kits I’m looking into trying to get on other trans so I can have one get built and still break In the car and stuff