pauleyman said:

That ground doesnt matter as you're 2g. 2g doesn't use the idle position switch. Ecu shows throttle closed by TPS.

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I’ll remove that ground then. Thanks for that info

Zanaqqq said:

Where is the SAS? I don’t think I’ve ever heard of that before. My biss is bottomed right now.

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On 1g thrrotle body, this is the IPS with the fixed SAS. You can see this is locked by a nut and the tip is touching the throttle plate stop. So if this part is tightened in more than it should, which means it pushs the throttle plate open more at TPS 0% position, and the engine would get more air from there and would cause higher idle speed (technically the same as vacuum leak)
I assume you run a 2g TPS, 2g TPS has the IPS so you wouldn't need the 1g IPS but you still need it as the fixed SAS.

DSMPT said:

On 1g thrrotle body, this is the IPS with the fixed SAS. You can see this is locked by a nut and the tip is touching the throttle plate stop. So if this part is tightened in more than it should, which means it pushs the throttle plate open more at TPS 0% position, and the engine would get more air from there and would cause higher idle speed (technically the same as vacuum leak)
I assume you run a 2g TPS, 2g TPS has the IPS so you wouldn't need the 1g IPS but you still need it as the fixed SAS.

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I’ll check that tomorrow, I should just be able to turn it counter clockwise correct?

Zanaqqq said:

I should just be able to turn it counter clockwise correct?

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To close the throttle plate, yes. It would decrease the idle engine speed in case if the high idle is caused by excessive air through the throttle plate.
The position is set from factory, so usually no need to touch but once if it has changed the position, you should set it as the factory position as below.

DSMPT said:

To close the throttle plate, yes. It would decrease the idle engine speed in case if the high idle is caused by excessive air through the throttle plate.
The position is set from factory, so usually no need to touch but once if it has changed the position, you should set it as the factory position as below.

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I’ll do that tomorrow, thanks

Zanaqqq said:

I had caps on them before I’ll put back on. I don’t really know where each one is supposed to go

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Doesn't matter as long as you dont have a leak.

Zanaqqq said:

I’ll remove that ground then. Thanks for that info

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This is assuming you have a 2g TPS and idle control is as a 2g is intended. If you ever happen to own a 1g the idle position switch grounds through the throttle body. Factory there is a small bracket that connects to a throttle body bolt. Thats because the gaskets electrically isolate. The IPS is just a simple on off ground switch and the factory ground is on the intake manifold, hence the need for the little bracket. In your case you ran the screw directly to ground, that works too. Moot point but thought the explanation would be helpful.

DSMPT said:

To close the throttle plate, yes. It would decrease the idle engine speed in case if the high idle is caused by excessive air through the throttle plate.
The position is set from factory, so usually no need to touch but once if it has changed the position, you should set it as the factory position as below.

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I did that this morning and it seemed to make no difference. The car is still idling 1400-1700 once it warms up. While it cold idle it will be around 1000-1200 until it gets to operating temp. My smoke leak detector came today so I’ll test it later assuming I have air getting in somewhere

Zanaqqq said:

I did that this morning and it seemed to make no difference. The car is still idling 1400-1700 once it warms up. While it cold idle it will be around 1000-1200 until it gets to operating temp. My smoke leak detector came today so I’ll test it later assuming I have air getting in somewhere

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Curious if you made any progress? Have you already addressed the FIAV? That thing haunted me for a long time. Either install a bypass plate or you can close the passage if you pull the freeze plug and turn this "adjuster," iirc, clockwise as far as it goes.
Post a new log after you fixed open loop checkbox and one that shows some ISC movement. Maybe a bit longer log with a few blips of the throttle.

dwb said:

Curious if you made any progress? Have you already addressed the FIAV? That thing haunted me for a long time. Either install a bypass plate or you can close the passage if you pull the freeze plug and turn this "adjuster," iirc, clockwise as far as it goes.
Post a new log after you fixed open loop checkbox and one that shows some ISC movement. Maybe a bit longer log with a few blips of the throttle.

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Yes I already have a bypass plate in there.

My ISC does move in closed loop now. I’m gonna run the car because I found 3 pretty big boost leaks yesterday so I’m testing how it runs today after fixing them.

Here is a fresh log I just took. The fuel trims are so weird. It says its lean at lower idle rpm but then rich as it revs itself up. Let me you guys thoughts

What is your base fuel pressure and what injectors are you running? You're showing about 800cc @ 43psi base fuel pressure in your log, but build thread shows 1200cc. You might just be dumping too much fuel.

Other common culprits, and I know you've looked at a a lot of these, but to reiterate: ISC, FIAV and/or it's o ring gasket, throttle plate open too much (cable too tight, stop out of adjustment or binding), TPS out of adjustment/not showing 0% throttle, and then a vacuum/boost leak (vacuum lines, brake booster, PCV, throttle body gaskets, fuel injectors, intake manifold gasket, etc.).

Does your smoke machine pressurize the intake like a boost leak tester would?

Have you tested the ISC coils? Verified no broken wires? Removed it, verified o ring condition, cleaned, and verified the pintle is not broken and plugged in it moves in/out upon key on (may also have to pull the battery before testing key on)?
Here's how to test the coils:

dwb said:

What is your base fuel pressure and what injectors are you running? You're showing about 800cc @ 43psi base fuel pressure in your log, but build thread shows 1200cc. You might just be dumping too much fuel.

Other common culprits, and I know you've looked at a a lot of these, but to reiterate: ISC, FIAV and/or it's o ring gasket, throttle plate open too much (cable too tight, stop out of adjustment or binding), TPS out of adjustment/not showing 0% throttle, and then a vacuum/boost leak (vacuum lines, brake booster, PCV, throttle body gaskets, fuel injectors, intake manifold gasket, etc.).

Does your smoke machine pressurize the intake like a boost leak tester would?

Have you tested the ISC coils? Verified no broken wires? Removed it, verified o ring condition, cleaned, and verified the pintle is not broken and plugged in it moves in/out upon key on (may also have to pull the battery before testing key on)?
Here's how to test the coils:

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Fuel pressure is 43.5 on my regulator, and my injectors do say 120lbs/hr on them. I forgot if I had my global full at -44.1 like it should be in that log. When it’s at 44.1 I would have to add like 800-1000 dead time for it to not be super lean. Unknown brand injectors as well.

ISC is good, my FIAV in turned all the way down and has bypass plate installed, TPS was shows 0% and .63 volts, my BISS screw is not in the greatest condition so IDK if that o-ring is leaking or not.

The smoke machine I got just had a tip releasing smoke IDK if it was pressuring it or not. Once I fixed the 3 leaks I had I found no other smoke coming out from anywhere. Throttle body was just taken apart and checked as well so I should hopefully not have leaks there.

I have not removed my ISC coils, I’ll watch that video rn.

Just watched that video and I can test it. It is brand new so I’m hoping it’s good but I will still test it

Zanaqqq said:

Fuel pressure is 43.5 on my regulator

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With or without vacuum?
Any chance you have another set of injections you could try?

dwb said:

With or without vacuum?
Any chance you have another set of injections you could try?

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Unsure, that’s just what it reads while the cars running. And I unfortunately don’t have spare injectors

Pull the vacuum line from the FPR (plug it temporarily) and then set your fuel pressure. Reattach your vacuum line.
Alternatively use the option in ECMLink to activate the fuel pump but don't start it. Then set your fuel pressure.

dwb said:

Pull the vacuum line from the FPR (plug it temporarily) and then set your fuel pressure. Reattach your vacuum line.
Alternatively use the option in ECMLink to activate the fuel pump but don't start it. Then set your fuel pressure.

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Injectors part number is 01D134B

Zanaqqq said:

Injectors part number is 01D134B

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Those are showing as Lucas 1260cc @ 43.5 BFP (no vacuum) & 455 deadtime.
So -64.8 global fuel adjustment according to my calculation (Disclaimer: I'm not a tuner and have been putting off installing my 1000cc's for some reason)

Keep in mind a boost/vacuum leak will cause rich conditions under boost and lean under vacuum in a MAF car.

dwb said:

Those are showing as Lucas 1260cc @ 43.5 BFP (no vacuum) & 455 deadtime.
So -64.8 global fuel adjustment according to my calculation (Disclaimer: I'm not a tuner and have been putting off installing my 1000cc's for some reason)

Keep in mind a boost/vacuum leak will cause rich conditions under boost and lean under vacuum in a MAF car.

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I set it to 44.1 and 455 dead time cause I’m on E85. I found more vacuum and exhaust leaks I'ma try to fix over the next day or two that are definitely throwing off the AFR

Also I set fuel pressure to 43.5 it seemed to be at 49-50 before

Zanaqqq said:

I’m on e85.
Also I set fuel pressure to 43.5 it seemed to be at 49-50 before

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Sorry, I missed that.
Yup, that's why you don't want vacuum on the FPR when setting the base.

Zanaqqq said:

I did that this morning and it seemed to make no difference. The car is still idling 1400-1700 once it warms up. While it cold idle it will be around 1000-1200 until it gets to operating temp. My smoke leak detector came today so I’ll test it later assuming I have air getting in somewhere

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So you fully loosened the fixed SAS and the BISS was bottomed out but the engine speed had no change at idle, it stayed at 1300-1700? If so, obviously the engine is sucking air excessively from somewhere that shouldn't be. You have to figure out from where first and fix it.
I would run a vacuum/boost leak test first, anyways it's a must to do to prevent wasting time in the future, then should go next step.

DSMPT said:

So you fully loosened the fixed SAS and the BISS was bottomed out but the engine speed had no change at idle, it stayed at 1300-1700? If so, obviously the engine is sucking air excessively from somewhere that shouldn't be. You have to figure out from where first and fix it.
I would run a vacuum/boost leak test first, anyways it's a must to do to prevent wasting time in the future, then should go next step.

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Just decided I’m not going to build this car because I don’t have the money or time to keep working on it. I’m going to list it private party first. Otherwise if anyone on here wants it I’m open to any offer. Idk if I can even post it for sale on here or not.