Is this a stroker motor or something? LoadScale is set to 82% and usually this isn't done unless there's more than normal displacement.

I don't think these cars really have a "limp" mode per say, it's just idling stupidly rich, even though it's calling for 14.7 it's idling high 10's to low 11's, just dumping fuel.

Actually just noticed in the MAF comp tab it's not set to Speed Density, that could be the issue, all the values should be zeroed here.

I don't believe it's a stroker but I had it tuned prior for the setup that I have which does have a lot of aftermarket stuff including 2150cc fic, 272 hks cams, a walboro 255, and other goodies.

It's not setup for SD yet but that's what I'm working towards. The thing is, it ran fine after getting it tuned and then randomly started acting up.

Is it possible that something happened to the ECU that caused settings to get screwed up?

This doesn't look like an ecu issue to me.

An important piece of info that I forgot to mention is that my car is limiting itself to 4500rpms...

I see your launch control is set at exactly 4500, move that up to 5500, just as a test, to see if the car will rev higher.
ALSO, you have your Knock Sensor set to basically never come on. I did that ONCE and melted a piston when knock came in but the sensor didn't pull timing...... I see that as dangerous. You have yours set to come on only ABOVE 7950. Ideally, you don't want any knock but the sensor should be active starting around 3500-4000 rpm and anything more than 90% throttle (some start it even at less TPS).
Just a few things I notice.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

I see your launch control is set at exactly 4500, move that up to 5500, just as a test, to see if the car will rev higher.

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Good catch, clutch switch could be grounding out. Like I said, these cars don't really have a limp mode, it's being held back by too much fuel or a limiter like the launch limit. If I'm not mistaken you can log the clutch switch by added it to captured values.

Thank you guys so much!! We are currently in a heat wave so it may be a couple days before I get to it to test this stuff out, but please stay tuned because I am pretty lost at this point if I'm on my own .

If you are on here, you are NEVER alone. That's what this forum does, it tries to help. I will follow along and chip in when I think I can contribute. Hang in there, we'll figure this out.
AND, who isn't in this heat wave? We are predicted for 99 on the 4th of July.

1990TSIAWDTALON said:

If you are on here, you are NEVER alone. That's what this forum does, it tries to help. I will follow along and chip in when I think I can contribute. Hang in there, we'll figure this out.
AND, who isn't in this heat wave? We are predicted for 99 on the 4th of July.

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I'm in Pa and it was like 112 today! Lol it's crazy!!!


Also, that's one thing that I really like about dsm's, the community is awesome. I talk to a ton of ppl that say that their car forums are trash or super mean!

You have already helped me so much on my build!

I have an update for everybody! First let me say that I am completely new to, not only the DSM world, but the performance world as well. That being said, it turns out the rev limit seemed to be the issue. I didn't even realize that was a feature with ECMLink...That solved PART of the mystery, but the car is still definitely running weird. I took another longer log of it idling and then going for a short drive. you can see at 425.xxx, it stalled out when turning left back into the parking lot.

I also tried to double check grounding points which all look fine. I did find something that is now scaring the crap out of me...I saw a video by the man, the myth, the legend, Jafromobile, where he talks about his 7bolt going kablammy and he said the culprit was a hidden bolt on the back of the engine that holds the engine to the transmission. He called this the "crank walk bolt" and said that it is important because over time, if missing, it could cause extra strain on everything, cause the rest of the trans bolts to loosen, and put extra strain on the thrust bearing leading to crank walk. Well...mine is missing...so I am going to definitely get one and install it, then check the rest of the trans bolts as well to see if they have loosened up. Would this causing the issues seen in the log and the feeling of a misfire or stutter when trying to drive/take off? If this is the issue, did I just screw my engine? I don't feel like I hear any weird noise otherwise.

The only other thing that I noticed today was that my fuel psi seems to hold at a normal psi but then when I give it gas it drops slightly. I am assuming this is normal though since I would think that the pressure would slightly drop when the injectors open up to release some of the pressure.

Hope this helps get closer to the solution. I again am so thankful for you all and taking time to try to help a fellow, hopefully longterm, DSMer.

No the CW bolt won't kill your engine, it can however cause of a lot of clutch engagement issues.

From your log, the clutch switch shows -1 constantly, you did move the car and came to a stop but the clutch switch never changed, so something is definitely up there.

jdxnc said:

No the CW bolt won't kill your engine, it can however cause of a lot of clutch engagement issues.

From your log, the clutch switch shows -1 constantly, you did move the car and came to a stop but the clutch switch never changed, so something is definitely up there.

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Do you think this would cause my engine to stutter and maybe stall when taking off? Or is stall what you meant by kill?

tschuhly said:

Do you think this would cause my engine to stutter and maybe stall when taking off? Or is stall what you meant by kill?

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I meant it's extremely unlikely to damage the engine itself.

Being the car is still running on the MAF, have you done a boost leak test? The stock MAF is very susceptible to air leakage issues which will cause sputtering/stalling etc.

jdxnc said:

I meant it's extremely unlikely to damage the engine itself.

Being the car is still running on the MAF, have you done a boost leak test? The stock MAF is very susceptible to air leakage issues which will cause sputtering/stalling etc.

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I did before getting it tuned but not recently. I'll add that to the top of the list!

Thank you for the reassurance with my engine health too!

jdxnc said:

No the CW bolt won't kill your engine, it can however cause of a lot of clutch engagement issues.

From your log, the clutch switch shows -1 constantly, you did move the car and came to a stop but the clutch switch never changed, so something is definitely up there.

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Sorry I forgot to respond to this as well. I bypassed my clutch safety switch because I was trying to avoid crank walk overtime from having to press the clutch in upon start up. I just used a jumper wire with the relay. I thought that I read that this wouldn't cause any issues (unless this isn't the switch your talking about).