Limp mode in manual

[gsxeclipse97]

So i put the 20g on yesterday and now the car will only run in limp mode. It went out of limp mode but now but then I was driving to the store and it went back into it. Do I need to reflash it so it will run correctly?

 

[jayson427]

Sounds like you had no way to tune and ran it lean. Which did internal damage to your pistons and that would lead to low compression assuming you had a healthy motor to start with.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Yes it's having issues for sure. They got it to start but now I am having to ruble
Getting it to start. None of that makes any sense for it run completely fine before and then after the swap not work

 

[jayson427]

It's called melting a piston which you probably did by running to much boost on a bigger turbo. Which was set up for a smaller one.

 

[athlete3344]

Did you mash the gas pedal after the swap? Why dont you do a compression test to confirm/deny the shop's test?

 

[gsxeclipse97]

It's called melting a piston which you probably did by running to much boost on a bigger turbo. Which was set up for a smaller one.

9 psi on bigger turbo I wouldn't just run 20psi on my a turbo that was just installed. Anyhow yes they did a compression test but said there was oil all in the holes if the so the blew the oil out of the holes. And only running on 3 cylinders. So cylinder 1 is not firing. Which may explain the not revving over 1500 rpms so I'm going to put another coil on and see if that fixes not staring issue.

Ok so fixed the coil pack issue now have spark on all 4 cylinders and still not starting. So I guess is something more serious than I expected.

 

[c2ypt1c]

Ok so fixed the coil pack issue now have spark on all 4 cylinders and still not starting. So I guess is something more serious than I expected.

Just curious, how do you know you have spark to all cylinders...how did you test?

Are you throwing any error codes?

I would check compression, fuel pressure, and timing marks, just to rule them out...but sounds like your compression might be effed.

 

[jayson427]

Spark wouldn't cause your engine to not Rev up in the first place. For example if you pulled a coil wire off it would still Rev up past 1500 rpm it might sound bad but still Rev. Are you sure there's nothing wrong with your gas pedal and throttle cable?

I'm not sure what you meant by the mechanic had to blow oil out the holes? What holes? Sounds like there's a ring issue going on. You should of posted your compression numbers that would say alot or performed a leak down test to back it up. Even at 9 psi going from a 14b to a 20g things can happen. You need to see if all your injectors are firing if you want it to start. Depending on how low the compression is be careful on doing so.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

I don't trust what they did at this point. I asked them if there were any codes present and they told
Me no. So when I got the car home I tested it and it showed a barometric pressure code. So I looked it up and said maf issue. I swaped my stock maf back on to try it out and changed the spark plugs and the car started. I drove it but now it won't rev over 3 thousand rpms. Like the anti lag is enabled. And sounds like it's misfiring. I'm going to try swapping the stock ecu back in and see if that has any affect.

Just curious, how do you know you have spark to all cylinders...how did you test?

Are you throwing any error codes?

I would check compression, fuel pressure, and timing marks, just to rule them out...but sounds like your compression might be effed.

I tested them by trying to start the car and see if there was a spark that came out of the coil. I went down each coil and cut was with 4 or one that didn't have a spark.

I have checked the timing makes and they line up correctly.

Compression test results from shop are possibly
#1 - 120
#2 - 125
#3 - 135
#4 - 150

I will have another done by a trusted person to make sure because of reason I already stated. The thing to keep in mind here is the car wasn't drive hard after the swap. Once the swap was done the and the car started is when it started having the issues nothing before that.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

So I went back through everything today and check for leaks replaced the o2 sensor and alternator. Both giving me issues. Now I can rev to 4000 some times 4500 but it does bog down once you hit boost just a bit. Well a lot.

 

[Tyeler18]

You have a boost leak. I don't know how many times you need to be told that. You HAVE a leak.

I'm curious how you are checking for leaks.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

The same way everyone else does. I've had this car 8 years. Really doesn't sound like a boost leak anyway being I changed a couple things and now revs higher. But thank you for your not useful input.

 

[Zmoney8907]

What is your A/F through a rev?

 

[Tyeler18]

The same way everyone else does? Pop the hood and glance over the couplers? Because that's how most do it which isn't a proper boost leak test. If you've owned this for 8 years then you should have no problem diagnosing such a simple issue.

 

[BurrowZ]

Not to dog you man, but if you just stated that you properly did a boost leak test and came back with good results then nobody would keep telling you to do it.

I had a similar issue once after swapping just a turbo (14b to 16g, what can go wrong?). After finally doing a boost leak test I found that the WG diaphragm was beyond shot and the large O ring on the compressor cover was torn. Things aren't always as they appear and that is why a BLT is crucial.

 

[gsxeclipse97]

What is your A/F through a rev?

14.7-14.3 at idle 13.5 before it starts to cut out. I have never had a boost leak that had made it where the car was unable to rev over a certain rpm. Did blt and found small leak through biss screw and tps sensor. As far as waste gate, I'm using the same one that was on the 14b. Which worked fine prior to swap. I have an extra wga but I didn't find any issues with that one. And it still seems like an electrical thing to me. Like I said at the beginning if the post. Upon startup of the swap the car had a hard time. With nothing else switched there was no mashing on the gas pedal or anything of the nature. The only other thing I can think of is that both maf sensors are bad but the one in there now isn't throwing a code.

 

[BurrowZ]

My only real other suggestions for you would be to check your power transistor, ECU, and CAS. Typically if a MAF is bad, the car runs better with it unplugged so you could try that as well.

I fried my original ECU in the car when changing an o2 sensor and I couldn't rev past 3000RPM having lost many of my inputs from sensors.

 

[Zmoney8907]

Start the car and then unplug the maf?

 

[gsxeclipse97]

Did that and the car dies

My only real other suggestions for you would be to check your power transistor, ECU, and CAS. Typically if a MAF is bad, the car runs better with it unplugged so you could try that as well.

I fried my original ECU in the car when changing an o2 sensor and I couldn't rev past 3000RPM having lost many of my inputs from sensors.

I tried a different transistor pack and the car did the same thing. I'm thinking it must be the ecu. But I have no other thoughts on what it could be. I have a 97 ecu but my injectors aren't going to like it if I put that in the car. But I guess I could try just to see if I can rev above that 4k limit.

So I went for a quick drive and I could get above 5000 rpms ins first gear but just barely, I will attribute that to the car has larger injectors and it had a more difficult time with all the extra fuel. But I'm thinking it's the ecu. Currently it's the only thing that makes sense.

So I tried another ecu and that didn't fix it :-/

 

[gsxeclipse97]

So preformed another boost lest test today and found one on the compressor housing. Apparently the 20g bolt holes go all the way through the compressor housing. So after plugging that hole. The car won't go over 4500 rpms

 

[gsxeclipse97]

So I flashed the big maps onto the car and now it runs it seems for now it revs like normal I'll keep everyone updated if it keeps working good but as of now it seems ok.