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Well it was nothing pretty but the new setup went down the track this weekend. I made 4 attempts but the car would not make more than 8 psi of boost. I did a BLT before I left, did one at the track, did a hot side leak test, verified timing, added all the spring I could to the wastegates, verified nothing was coming out of them, changed the turbine housing for a different A/R, nothing worked. Aside from that the car ran perfectly, new motor now has some break in done, did an oil change and cut the filter open, everything looking perfect.

Luckily my guy from Turbo Parts Canada was at the track and took the turbo back with him to check out, shit happens and I'm confident he'll figure it out.

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Interested in what was holding back boost 🤔
 
I still have stock but it’s been done before.

I'm the person that installed Corvette rotors and calipers on my 92. I don't know if that is the best, but I'm the 1st that did it. I'm willing to give the plans to any company, but they want 2 or 4 piston with an E-brake. I suggested a new trailing arm for that modd.
 
Fyi, if you cut enough strips from an aluminum Sapporo can and lube them up, they make for a decent bushing in the shifter arm/base connection. no more side wobble.
 
Searching for a short in a power wire that keeps making my Antilock light flash and turn off my radio, locks and Windows 😡

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I'm the person that installed Corvette rotors and calipers on my 92. I don't know if that is the best, but I'm the 1st that did it. I'm willing to give the plans to any company, but they want 2 or 4 piston with an E-brake. I suggested a new trailing arm for that modd.
Yeah man anything on the Corvette rear brakes yet that would be nice if someone can improve on your design
 
Unfortunately attempt #3 of trying to remove the shift lever pins so i can replace the oil seal was unsuccessful. I used a mini torch to heat them up, then tried the mini air hammer and another chain link removal tool. Still not budging.

At this point, think im going to go the same route as @chrysler kid and drill them out. This is a really annoying problem to have.
 
Unfortunately attempt #3 of trying to remove the shift lever pins so i can replace the oil seal was unsuccessful. I used a mini torch to heat them up, then tried the mini air hammer and another chain link removal tool. Still not budging.

At this point, think im going to go the same route as @chrysler kid and drill them out. This is a really annoying problem to have.

Not joking; I broke atleast 4 different chain breaker tools. There was no way to get the bottom one out, I even used a torch to make the pin glow red and it was still not moving even with a mini sledge.

Go at the pin with the drill from the top, remove the battery and shift cables. The pins are actually soft metal and a good drill bit will eat right though it with little pressure. If you feel like it’s not drilling in easily check the angle to make sure it’s not crooked. I used an m5 bolt I believe (take the counterweight with you to Home Depot to find a bolt that will be long enough
 
...and just like that...

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Not sure where the other one shot off to..
So my magic trick seems to have been spraying this on both sides and using the chain breaker.
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Turned a 10 day job into a 10 minute job. Sprayed it and as long as it took me to get the tool on there and shortwalk it with the impact, they started to slide out and just had to use a punch to knock it the rest of the way out. Tomorrow ill figure out how to get this counterweight off.
 

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I went to a local get together in the town south of me 15 minutes. I had a few issues, but the car RAN great and she got me back home 👍 Typical DSM stuff but got me back home.

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Hope all is ok and just a smile on father's day! Wow. 😎 44 was my max so far.
 
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We had to move our office and this new one came with a garage. Couldn't be more happier with the extra space. I only have 20 more led lights to put up.
 

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...and just like that...

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Not sure where the other one shot off to..
So my magic trick seems to have been spraying this on both sides and using the chain breaker.
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Turned a 10 day job into a 10 minute job. Sprayed it and as long as it took me to get the tool on there and shortwalk it with the impact, they started to slide out and just had to use a punch to knock it the rest of the way out. Tomorrow ill figure out how to get this counterweight off.

I did it! Finally! Last step is to get this f***ing seal out and then put it back together.
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Everybody, 1, 2, 3 - Hip Hip HURRAY!!!! :thumb:
 
Sounds mean af!:cool: How much boost is it building?
That was about 15 psi, it's a little aggressive for my liking, I want about 15-20 psi but not that aggressive so I need to play with the 2-step timing table some more. Gonna make some more adjustments at the next track outing, it's loud as hell in the garage.
 
That was about 15 psi, it's a little aggressive for my liking, I want about 15-20 psi but not that aggressive so I need to play with the 2-step timing table some more. Gonna make some more adjustments at the next track outing, it's loud as hell in the garage.
Sheeesh. I stay low at like 5 haha all axels matter😂
 
Sheeesh. I stay low at like 5 haha all axels matter😂
Different build level LOL. Here's a clip from the even life feed, I was only making about 10 psi on the launch here and it wasn't enough, the car fell out of boost for a split sec

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Well well well. The car that idles absolutely perfect at 3500rpm may have gave up it's secret. A BLT was impossible and I've been pulling my hair out.

Does anyone know the thread here so I can buy a proper plug?

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