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2G fuel pump sending unit mangled flare nut

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voodoogsx

20+ Year Contributor
334
23
Jun 2, 2004
Sherman Oaks, California
So I go to start my car a couple of weeks back and the car would crank, but not start. I checked for spark, and that looked good, then started checking for fuel. Not so good. Power to the pump, but nothing was happening. As far as I know, this is the original pump, at least from 2003 on it's been the original. Time to upgrade I guess. Okay, time to remove it. Watched a few vids, I had a cheap line wrench and thought I'd give it a try. No bueno. After several tries and the wrench starting to slip, I figured I'd go with vise grips as that was an option if the nut started to round.
After several attempts and things getting worse, I opted to stop ruining the line any further just purchase a good line wrench to get the line under the car off. Bought a decent one and I had success. I vacuum the area of bits of metal that were on the lid then I pulled the sending unit/pump off and this is when I found something that kinda made me feel very uneasy. Little bits of metal/glitter in the fuel tank where the pump sat. Strap a magnet to a stick and I can pull pieces out.
Great...and I just filled up too....

So back to the pump. I remove it get some gas in a bucket and connect the pump to a battery.
first time I tried it it worked, tap the contact again, then it stopped working, tap again, then it started again. Seems like it's no quite right. No weird sounds though.

So now I got a couple questions.
Is this sending unit toast with the kinks in the line?
Can I get it fixed somehow or try to find a way to replace it?
I've shredded the flare nut and even out of the car, I can't get the thing to budge? Bring it to a shop since the flex line is still good?
Since there is glitter, I'm worried that this has already gone through the system. Pull the injectors and get them checked?
Flush the fuel line and try to use a magnet to get the glitter that has settled?

I've got a fuel filter and was going to upgrade to a walbro 120lpm pump to replace this current one depending on if I need a new sending unit or if there is something else I can do.

thoughts?

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You have kinked the line twice trying the turn the fixed nut and I'd start looking for a replacement.
In the future it's the hose that turns, if I remember correctly, not the fitting on the line.
The hose indeed does only turn as the flare nut is welded, but with the tight fit of the location, the leverage was lost and just trying to turn the hose end ended up with bending the line. It's why I finally went to the underside.
I still can't remove the hose from the sending unit/flare nut. It's extremely frustrating. I'm going to take it to a shot to see if they get remove it.

I was considering getting a fuel bulkhead fitting like this.

Though it seems I'd need to get another short line and 90 degree bend to connect everything...
 
The hose indeed does only turn as the flare nut is welded, but with the tight fit of the location, the leverage was lost and just trying to turn the hose end ended up with bending the line. It's why I finally went to the underside.
I still can't remove the hose from the sending unit/flare nut. It's extremely frustrating. I'm going to take it to a shot to see if they get remove it.

I was considering getting a fuel bulkhead fitting like this.

Though it seems I'd need to get another short line and 90 degree bend to connect everything...
I have a GST and would consider myself a newbie that is confident enough to try things and I was able to drill the old OEM metal line out using a step bit from the bottom side and then put the bulkhead 90° on there instead. I wouldn't panic to much as this is a fairly easy and straight forward solution. Just make sure that you have a good crush washer and not a cheap one!

Also, just for a future idea or for anytime else struggling with getting the line wrench to grab tight. I wrapped some electrical tape around the hex to really make it a tight fit with the wrench. It seemed to help me out but if it's really such, this may have been unavoidable.

Good luck!!
 
So after a bit of research and parts searching, I found the ideal part.

Aeroquip Steel Weld-In Bungs FBM2872​

...and I thought this was perfect..the weld looked good..or so I thought....and put it all back together....and tried it, car started(YES!), but I had 2 pinhole leaks in the weld by the sensor. The guy that did the weld said that spot might be a problem...so I took it out and brought it back to him...
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and he tried again(I forgot my test setup but got it home and it failed)....and again...and again...and every time, a new leak appeared when we tested it with soapy water/compressed air test.
I think he tried to hit it at least 6 times....and it became a hot mess..
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So...he gave up...and welp....I got to grinding this down...and down...and down..
So now I have 1 pinhole leak(between the bung and the lip of the sensor mount) to deal with...and a very ground down hanger...

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So now...I'm wondering what I can do....
I bought a used one that appeared here on this site a couple days ago, but I really want to see if I can fix this one...or if it's a lost cause... :(
What I'm considering is using some jb weld Tankweld on that spot. maybe drill a small hole where its leaking(I did a soap bubble test and only found one spot that it's leaking at).
I was also going to try to fill in the gap in the bung and the fuel tube with some gaskest dressing and sealent(permatex 85420)

Pretty bummed with this whole thing as it is...
 

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